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D2 valve adjusting

D2 valve adjusting

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Cysco
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I am having a problem with the diesel motor valve adjusting procedure on my 1956 D2. The valve part I can do but my question is how do you rotate the engine by hand ? I have a front mount hydraulic pump that comes off the crank so using the crank damper bolt is out I assume. The manuals I have don't provide any info that I can find. Any help will be appreciated....Bill
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Sun, Apr 12, 2009 9:20 AM
SJ
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Working on Cats for years you do run in this problem so there are plates on around the flywheel housing or the timing hole to remove and you can take a small pinch bar and turn the engine that way but is a little slow but works.
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Sun, Apr 12, 2009 6:02 PM
drujinin
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Open you decompress lever, "put in start position", then grab the fan and roll the engine over. When you get to the next valve position, put the lever into the "run" position.
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Sun, Apr 12, 2009 6:02 PM
Cysco
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Reply to drujinin:
Open you decompress lever, "put in start position", then grab the fan and roll the engine over. When you get to the next valve position, put the lever into the "run" position.
Thanks guys.....I will try both ways and see what happens. It can't be as hard as drilling out and tapping all those broken bolts....still have several to go.....
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Sun, Apr 12, 2009 6:09 PM
SJ
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Reply to Cysco:
Thanks guys.....I will try both ways and see what happens. It can't be as hard as drilling out and tapping all those broken bolts....still have several to go.....
Yes release the compression as was mentioned and it turns much easier and don,t forget to put the lever back in run to adjust them, forgot to tell you this before in my reply.
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Mon, Apr 13, 2009 4:00 AM
Cysco
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Reply to SJ:
Yes release the compression as was mentioned and it turns much easier and don,t forget to put the lever back in run to adjust them, forgot to tell you this before in my reply.
The way I have adjusted valves in the past is :
Intake starts opening adjust the exhaust
Exhaust starts closing adjust the Intake

If there is a better way let me know.

Also I found a "unique" way to turn the motor ......I took the fan belt off the lower pulley and I have a plumbers strap wrench that fit around the pulley and it moves the motor easily and I can watch the valves.
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Mon, Apr 13, 2009 7:01 AM
SJ
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Reply to Cysco:
The way I have adjusted valves in the past is :
Intake starts opening adjust the exhaust
Exhaust starts closing adjust the Intake

If there is a better way let me know.

Also I found a "unique" way to turn the motor ......I took the fan belt off the lower pulley and I have a plumbers strap wrench that fit around the pulley and it moves the motor easily and I can watch the valves.
Some people do go by the position of valves to set them but all the years I worked at the dealer and set hundreds of engines I never really went by the valve position but by the marks on the flywheel and made sure on the older engines the flywheel was on correctly and not put on the wrong holes on the crank when it was apart sometime.
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Mon, Apr 13, 2009 5:40 PM
Cysco
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Reply to SJ:
Some people do go by the position of valves to set them but all the years I worked at the dealer and set hundreds of engines I never really went by the valve position but by the marks on the flywheel and made sure on the older engines the flywheel was on correctly and not put on the wrong holes on the crank when it was apart sometime.
SJ...yes...the manual says to adjust the valves by the timing marks but it isn't specific as to which ones. There are two numbers at each mark. Do those numbers correspond to both the intake and exhaust to be adjusted when lined up ? I guess I reverted back to how I adjusted valves on my solid lift cam motors I have in my cars. But at the same time I am learning and enjoying the challenge of these old Cats. Hope you don't mind all the questions...Have a good day.....Bill
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Tue, Apr 14, 2009 5:17 AM
SJ
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Reply to Cysco:
SJ...yes...the manual says to adjust the valves by the timing marks but it isn't specific as to which ones. There are two numbers at each mark. Do those numbers correspond to both the intake and exhaust to be adjusted when lined up ? I guess I reverted back to how I adjusted valves on my solid lift cam motors I have in my cars. But at the same time I am learning and enjoying the challenge of these old Cats. Hope you don't mind all the questions...Have a good day.....Bill
Yes you set "both" valves when your on the flywheel mark and yes there are two number marks at each set of them and say #1 and 4 show up so when the engine is top center on # 1 firing stroke you set both valves on the number one and then the engine for # 4 has to be turned one full turn to set #4 on TDC firing stroke. If your just setting the valves from an engine that has been operating then both valves will be loose and compression release in the run position.The firing order of your tractor is 1-3-4-2. A little practice and you will understand the process I,m sure. Turn the engine CCW at the flywheel or CW from the front pulley.This is the same process if your setting the injection housing adjusting screws but never pass the number but stop right on it and if ou pass it then back the engine up some and come again slow to the mark and right on it with the pointer.
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Tue, Apr 14, 2009 5:33 AM
Cysco
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Reply to SJ:
Yes you set "both" valves when your on the flywheel mark and yes there are two number marks at each set of them and say #1 and 4 show up so when the engine is top center on # 1 firing stroke you set both valves on the number one and then the engine for # 4 has to be turned one full turn to set #4 on TDC firing stroke. If your just setting the valves from an engine that has been operating then both valves will be loose and compression release in the run position.The firing order of your tractor is 1-3-4-2. A little practice and you will understand the process I,m sure. Turn the engine CCW at the flywheel or CW from the front pulley.This is the same process if your setting the injection housing adjusting screws but never pass the number but stop right on it and if ou pass it then back the engine up some and come again slow to the mark and right on it with the pointer.
SJ...I got the valves done this evening along with the transmission and clutch oils drained . I followed your instructions and all went well.Thanks for the help. I have one more filter to change...fuel filter.This will be fun ...I can feel it...😊
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Tue, Apr 14, 2009 10:52 AM
SJ
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Reply to Cysco:
SJ...I got the valves done this evening along with the transmission and clutch oils drained . I followed your instructions and all went well.Thanks for the help. I have one more filter to change...fuel filter.This will be fun ...I can feel it...😊
It shouldn,t be a big deal to change the filters so drain them and remove them from the housing and rinse the housing out good and before you install the new filter group pour the housing nearly full of fuel and then drop the filter assem. down in and button it up. Little bleeding will then be necessary and will start up pretty quick.We always did this at the dealer to save time and headaches. Fuel will be filtered before it goes in the engine anyway so no need to worry as it goes through the elements first.
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Tue, Apr 14, 2009 6:54 PM
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