D2 Track Removal

You might have more luck cutting out the end of the pin with the torch than drilling it, but that's just me. Before you do that, rig up a drive pin and hit it with a big sledge a few times after you get it hot. Sometimes a shock like that will do what the steady push of a press won't do.

12 ton is nowhere near enough to remove an old master pin. You need at least 50 tons pressure. A 14 lb sledgehammer, wielded properly, can apply up to 100 tons with each hard-hitting smack.

First - soak the pin and link in your favorite panther pee overnight. Diesel or kero will do, if you have nothing better. Build a little "dam" with wood putty to hold the penetrant against the pin/link, to assist with penetration. Do both outside and inside links with penetrant.

Position the master pin about shin to knee height, at front or rear of tractor. This is a good hitting height for a sledgehammer.
Secure the pin, links and track chain against movement, by standing a big hardwood block on end against the track shoe, at an angle, and drive the tractor up against the wood block until it jams the track against the idler or sprocket. Then lock the brakes, and block the track.

Place a bucking bar of heavy weight, well secured against a solid surface, behind the track master link. This ensures that any hit is fully transferred to the link and pin, and not dissipated in track movement.

Fabricate a big drift, if you don't have one, from a section of old truck axle .. just slightly smaller diameter than the pin .. and weld a 2' long, "U" shaped handle to it, made from 1/2" or 5/8" round bar.
Get an able assistant to hold the drift against the pin, and get out your 14 pounder, and slam some good accurate hits on that drift.

If you don't have a helper, you can fabricate a holding assembly for the drift or drive pin, out of heavy tubing, well supported by splayed legs .. in which case, the handle will not be needed.

Ensure that you and your helper wear face protection from any possible flying steel chips, as well as gloves. Leather welders apron is also a good protection investment.

A dozen good hits will see that pin well on its way. Nothing beats the simple application of accurate hits with a big sledgehammer to recalcitrant parts .. 😄

I have tried all ways possible, I have only had luck with a torch and burring out the pins. 😊 best of luck just take your time and you will get it.

I had the same problem with my d2.
I could'nt pay anyone enough to hold the punch for me.So I made alittle bracket that bolted onto the track next to the rail this little goodie held my punch free of charge.I then hit the pin as hard as a 53 year old guy could and i got it out!
I'm sure you realize that some punches usually the home made ones are made out very hard(brittle) metal.Pieces of this can and will break off and come at you like a 3006 deer rifle.
So what ever you use be careful,for there could be flying bullets in the area!!!!!!
GOOD LUCK COMPRESSOR

[quote="compressor"]I had the same problem with my d2.
I could'nt pay anyone enough to hold the punch for me[/quote]
LOL!! .. and to think I did this for years, and only got paid, idiot owner wages!! .. 😄

Compressor is right on the steel composition of the drift or drive pin. The material in the drift or pin must NOT be be a hard, brittle steel .. mild steel is quite satisfactory .. but truck axles make the best drifts and pins, due to them being a tough, low alloy steel, with good impact strength. Cutting them with the gas-axe and allowing them to cool naturally, allows a degree of softening that asists in reducing fracturing.

As with all hammering with any hammers .. big or small .. you should never strike two hardened surfaces together, this is a recipe for wearing a chunk of steel in your body.

The kind you hit with a hammer works great! They are made to be hit with a hammer which means the stem is softer than the tip. Just heat and air cool the hardened steel tip which should soften it up some. Grind the sides of the flutes to match the stem. Then get the helper to hold it with the handle extension that is described by others. You swing the hammer because your helper will never swing it straight or hard enough. (I know!) Heat the links red hot, then heat them some more. The pin will come out about the time you get tired and discouraged. 😄

If you've got a helper to hold the drift, use some cable for a handle. If you don't like said helper, by all means use a chunk of 1/2" or 3/4" solid shaft. The use of the solid handle will ensure he's not gonna much care for you either after the first or second off center hit with the sledge😄 . Using a chunk of cable brazed to the drift will absorb a lot of shock and doesn't "tingle" the hands as much. .

If the pins and bushings are little worn all you have to do is take the bracket's off that hold the idiler in place. The idiler will move back enough and the track will come off in one piece. Have done it this way on all my smaller crawlers. Mike

Oz Doz done worn me out just reading his post------------brought my mind back to the late 70's when we changed out the tracks on my old TD-14 IH.

I've still got the 16 lb sledge hammer-----------and used to be man enough to give it a real work out.

So tired right now just from "remembering that old sledge hammer"---------ain't even sure I could pick it up right now.😮

-----------------and the old TD-14 has one track on backwards right now. Left the boys at the shop to install the last track after we had removed the old one------------and damn if they didn't put it on backwards. Never got around to reversing it (musta been for a reason???)🙄 😄 .

Delta Dirt