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D2 Steering clutches

D2 Steering clutches

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Hutchy
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Hi all,
Can anyone tell me how many aftermarket discs and plates I need to replace the original ones in one steering clutch. I've made the mistake of ordering out of the parts book and having the number converted to the aftermarket part but it is much thinner than the original and the overall pack height is not correct. The minimum spec in the book is 2" 19/32 but I'm not sure what the 'new' spec is.
Thanks
Hutchy
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Tue, Sep 5, 2017 5:31 PM
neil
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If you're planning to use General Gear's parts, use 12 plain and 12 bronze in each clutch, compared with the 8 each of the original parts. If there are other after-market suppliers out there, you'd have to check to see what they specify. It all comes down to stack height, and using enough plates of each type to meet the required height - new: 2 7/8, minimum acceptable 2 19/32
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Tue, Sep 5, 2017 7:08 PM
Hutchy
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Thanks Neil that's exactly the info I was looking for
Hutchy
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Tue, Sep 5, 2017 7:10 PM
neil
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Reply to Hutchy:
Thanks Neil that's exactly the info I was looking for
Hutchy
Hutchy, what type/capacity puller did you use to pull your inner hubs? I have a 10t on mine without success and I see that they're pressed on at up to 15t so I'm not getting anywhere. Had a few ideas on here to try but am hoping to avoid any Heath Robinson setup if a couple of heat and pound cycles will do the trick (heads off to get more acetylene....)
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Wed, Sep 6, 2017 12:22 AM
Hutchy
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Neil I'm not sure how much force I put on them. I have a home made puller that uses a 1"UNF puller bolt in the centre and I put the 3/4 socket bar and a price of pipe (cheater) on it, do it up as tight as I can and then give the head of the puller bolt a good hard hit with the sledge hammer. They seem to pop right off. This actual one I'm working on at the moment was broken (due to rusted plates) so I heated it a bit with the torch and then hit the bolt, I think the heat helped a bit. I try to avoid heating if I'm going to reuse the hub, just makes me feel better and heating damages the springs. I've never tested the springs after heating but they always change shape a bit so they must change a bit. I'll round up a pic of the puller for you but you might have a different opinion of us Aussies after you see it!!
Cheers
Hutchy
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Wed, Sep 6, 2017 5:45 AM
neil
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Reply to Hutchy:
Neil I'm not sure how much force I put on them. I have a home made puller that uses a 1"UNF puller bolt in the centre and I put the 3/4 socket bar and a price of pipe (cheater) on it, do it up as tight as I can and then give the head of the puller bolt a good hard hit with the sledge hammer. They seem to pop right off. This actual one I'm working on at the moment was broken (due to rusted plates) so I heated it a bit with the torch and then hit the bolt, I think the heat helped a bit. I try to avoid heating if I'm going to reuse the hub, just makes me feel better and heating damages the springs. I've never tested the springs after heating but they always change shape a bit so they must change a bit. I'll round up a pic of the puller for you but you might have a different opinion of us Aussies after you see it!!
Cheers
Hutchy
Nah mate, I'm originally from Enzed so my opinion is already set... ; ) I just picked up an OTC 17t # 938 off ebay so that should move it and his friend on the other side of the transmission. I'm assuming given how worn the outer hub was (the teeth in the clutch plates wore concentric circles through the splines in the hub so basically there was no longer any drive transmitted) the inner hub will be too but I'd like to see before I go torching it off. If it's good, that'll save me 250 on a new one.
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Wed, Sep 6, 2017 8:53 AM
8C 361
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Reply to neil:
Hutchy, what type/capacity puller did you use to pull your inner hubs? I have a 10t on mine without success and I see that they're pressed on at up to 15t so I'm not getting anywhere. Had a few ideas on here to try but am hoping to avoid any Heath Robinson setup if a couple of heat and pound cycles will do the trick (heads off to get more acetylene....)


I have always used one similar to this and had no problem.

[attachment=44572]HP600_1.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
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Wed, Sep 6, 2017 8:05 PM
neil
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Reply to 8C 361:


I have always used one similar to this and had no problem.

[attachment=44572]HP600_1.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
Hopefully the OTC will do the trick. If not, I'm refilling my acetylene today....
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Wed, Sep 6, 2017 11:08 PM
STEPHEN
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Reply to neil:
Hopefully the OTC will do the trick. If not, I'm refilling my acetylene today....
I always use a heavy square bar (2"?) With two holes across the end of the shaft. Add two hard studs, case hardened flanged nuts, and antisieze. Never had any trouble.
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Thu, Sep 7, 2017 1:46 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to STEPHEN:
I always use a heavy square bar (2"?) With two holes across the end of the shaft. Add two hard studs, case hardened flanged nuts, and antisieze. Never had any trouble.
I use dynamite!

he-he-he ๐Ÿ˜ˆ ๐Ÿ˜–cared:
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Thu, Sep 7, 2017 3:23 AM
daron
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Reply to Rome K/G:
I use dynamite!

he-he-he ๐Ÿ˜ˆ ๐Ÿ˜–cared:
[quote="Rome K/G"]I use dynamite!

he-he-he ๐Ÿ˜ˆ ๐Ÿ˜–cared:[/quote]


Wrap some Primacord inboard of the spline.

I've heard (or read) of boat propellers being removed this way.

Daron
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Thu, Sep 7, 2017 5:45 AM
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