D2 Steering clutch replacement

I would check the springs to see if they meet spec, I have found if they have pitting from rust they will be week, I forget where I bought the new springs.

Regarding the press , I wouldn't go the full push if I had one, for my play tractor I simply cleaned the mating surfaces, warmed up the clutch pack to maybe 200F on the wood stove, lubed the male shaft with silicone spray and installed clutch pack with Impact driver, Its tight, not 15 tons worth but tight

The Servicemen's Reference Book will give the specs of how many pounds compressed to a given length. I used a bath room scale and a small press because the ones I tested where a bit larger than a valve spring tester could test.Like other hardware I believe Cat springs are as good as you can get,have seen very pitted and weak but never broken.So I would reuse if they test good.I have reused rusted steel plates if the pits where small,after a good buffing.Extra plates can be used to get the right stack thicknesses.My complaint is Cat book only has the minimum height but not a maximum ,as in lean times I have used more plates than the one extra Cat lists.But I believe there are some here that had maximum height of the stacks for different models.So this is a very good place to ask about any thing you are not sure about. Much handier to have the proper service books but people here have been very generous with there knowledge.

Info I have states 2-7/8" maximum new stack, although you can fudge on that a little so long as you can get the spring retainers on.

Not recommended you do the full 15 ton press as it's been known to split hubs. About 10 Ton would be appropriate. That's with both surfaces clean and dry.

Definitely agree with OM on not going the full tonnage, usually 20-30% below spec (10 -12 tons) and look to see if it is on far enough, with regard to using anything except the service press to install clutches and drive flanges, I have had to re fix plenty that were put on by other methods but never one that had at least 70% of its specified tonnage.
I certainly don't recommend other methods, but you should always check to see how far the clutch has gone up the splines, there should be a spec in the Serviceman's Reference book and you can usually see the tell=tale signs of how far it was on before.

Thanks everyone

OM - Wow if that's maximum spec mine measures almost 4 inches across with all the rust build up! I wonder if this would have caused any damage to the springs or will make them difficult to compress?

I should also add that this machine will most likely only do another 100 hrs in the time I have it as I am just planning to store it and take it to the occasional show. This is why I would like to save some money if I can then there is more to spend on getting all the sheet metal in order. I might be best to see if I can find a spring compression tester to use aswell.

I would install the clutch with a hollow ram cylinder/10k pump and a pressure gauge to check the load. Dry, not lubed.

2-7/8" max and 2-19/32" min. is correct. Don't know what you have there but I didn't think you could get any where near 4".
Have you tried getting the clutch pack apart yet? May have to torch the springs to disassemble.

Scans below for older machine Specs. Grab/save 'em while they are up.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

OM

When I measure from disk to disk I get around 3 1/4 inches. In the previous measurement I was including the pressure plates as well im not sure if they are meant to be? I had another look and the springs look to be almost completely compressed so I suspect I wall have to cut them out. That should be fun...