Clutches have rusted and swelled so the clutch pack springs are nearly completely compressed. Almost certainly a teardown and replacement will be required though .....IF....... you can get the clutch to slip it might be possible to just keep adjusting the clutch to keep the recommended free travel measurement at top of lever and run it until the swollen clutch linings break down from rust between lining and backing disk. Most likely you cannot get the clutch pack to disengage/slip at all.
All parts to repair are readily available. There are modern bronze faced linings available that do not swell or absorb moisture so rusting is minimal.
Could be the linings, but it sounds almost identical to a D2 I worked on last summer. The throw-out bearing were both losing their balls. If you have a bore scope you can snake it down in the clutch housing and take a look. You can really see it with your eye through the cover.
Jeremy
do you have part numbers for the linings and disk and where to buy them , and info for the bearings too .
thanks
www.steeringclutch.com
This is a website for General Gear in Idaho. They offer the metallic bronze/ steel discs that replace the standard frictions with riveted linings (4B3533) that tend to rust and swell. They also sell the steel disks 4B3532 that go between the frictions as well as new brake/clutch drums 5B3281 that are frequently broken trying to get the final drives off.
The clutch release bearings are a thrust bearing, part number 2B9338. Always a good idea to replace if there is any question it's good. They can be converted to grease lubrication as well.
Yes it could be frozen clutch disks or throw out bearing. Before tearing down check and see if the bell crank is not tight. Look under rectangular plate. You may be able to move with a bar and restore proper free travel. If so, lots of loose juice and moving back and forth with bar may restore operation.