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D2 steering clutch

D2 steering clutch

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GarySkepper
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Lots of posts here on D2 steering clutches.
Mine lost drive on the right hand track. No bang or noise, rolls freely on right hand side.
clutches are to extreme of adjustment,
I have started to tear down ready to pull final drive casing.
Any suggestions on best way to get casing off?. As brake drum is pressed on is there issues getting it to slide off?
Any suggestions as to what caused the drive to stop?
Any help appreciated.
Gary NZ
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Mon, May 8, 2017 3:12 PM
Andrew
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Steering clutch teeth broken off perhaps.
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Mon, May 8, 2017 6:15 PM
shovel man
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Hello Gary,
The final drive should just slide of once you've unbolted it, from memory it's just the ring of bolts around the casing and the clamp on the track frame pivot shaft to undo after you've taken the fender off, the brake drum comes of with the final drive, the only problem you might encounter is if the clutch discs have rusted in the drum, then it can be very difficult to remove the final drive, some people have broken the brake drum forcing it off, when you've got the final drive off you will need to pull the clutch pack, I have used a ten ton ram in the past to pull it, make sure you leave the centre bolt still in just loosen it a few turns or the hole lot might fly across the workshop it's on a taper.

As for the reason you lost drive it could be the clutch pack worn out, but around twenty plus years ago I bought a D2 that had lost dive on one track and found the shaft through the steering clutches had sheared,
I fixed it and still have the tractor today.

How many years have you been in NZ now ?

Shovel man
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Mon, May 8, 2017 6:18 PM
STEPHEN
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Reply to shovel man:
Hello Gary,
The final drive should just slide of once you've unbolted it, from memory it's just the ring of bolts around the casing and the clamp on the track frame pivot shaft to undo after you've taken the fender off, the brake drum comes of with the final drive, the only problem you might encounter is if the clutch discs have rusted in the drum, then it can be very difficult to remove the final drive, some people have broken the brake drum forcing it off, when you've got the final drive off you will need to pull the clutch pack, I have used a ten ton ram in the past to pull it, make sure you leave the centre bolt still in just loosen it a few turns or the hole lot might fly across the workshop it's on a taper.

As for the reason you lost drive it could be the clutch pack worn out, but around twenty plus years ago I bought a D2 that had lost dive on one track and found the shaft through the steering clutches had sheared,
I fixed it and still have the tractor today.

How many years have you been in NZ now ?

Shovel man
Gary, there are two large dowel pins in the final drive flange that are a close fit, also the gasket can create quite a bond. You don't want to bust your flange so work it off evenly. Check your parts book, from memory there is a dowel to position the final to the track frame pivot bar, just don't remember if it is in the four bolt cap or the final.
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Mon, May 8, 2017 9:35 PM
GarySkepper
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Thanks guys, will try pulling the casing off this weekend and see what that reveals. More questions coming soon no doubt
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Tue, May 9, 2017 3:58 PM
d2gary
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Reply to GarySkepper:
Thanks guys, will try pulling the casing off this weekend and see what that reveals. More questions coming soon no doubt
Very interested in hearing about your project as I'm getting ready to start on my d2. I've read as much as I can find but it seems that every machine has its own method of resistance. Maybe you might find some useful info in the thread D2 dilemma that's been going on for awhile on the BB.
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Tue, May 9, 2017 10:23 PM
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