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D2 Seat Fuel Tank

D2 Seat Fuel Tank

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Cysco
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I have cleaned the outside of the fuel tank and now I want to clean the inside. I had planned to just use my steam cleaner but there may be a chemical that will do an even better job. Anyone with an idea would be appreciated.
Thanks.........Bill
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Mon, Nov 9, 2009 5:25 AM
Dan Pratt
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Drano will get out the gum or other organics. Need some acid type cleaner for the rust. I have never done the acid type but it will work (carefull!)
Dan22 - 1936 22 Narrow, 1937 22 Wide, D2 5J, D4D
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Mon, Nov 9, 2009 6:31 AM
d2dm
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hi wash out with kero (paraffin) or steam clean then put in two hand full of self taping srews and shake well to remove rust i have never been happey using
tank lining compounds due to fuel reaction and making a problem at the injactors ok lads shoot my methods out of the water:🙄 :
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Mon, Nov 9, 2009 6:40 AM
OzDozer
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Reply to d2dm:
hi wash out with kero (paraffin) or steam clean then put in two hand full of self taping srews and shake well to remove rust i have never been happey using
tank lining compounds due to fuel reaction and making a problem at the injactors ok lads shoot my methods out of the water:🙄 :
A slightly caustic chemical added to the tank, before you hit it with the steam cleaner will work just fine. Truck wash detergent that has around 2% caustic soda (lye) added in the formula, is very effective. You can also use a handful of dishwasher powder, it's got caustic additives.

Adding things like screws is O.K. for small tanks .. I think d2dm may be thinking of pony fuel tanks. However, anything you add to a tank has to be completely removed, so I can't recommend adding anything more than a liquid that can be sucked out, and the tank dried out.

Once you start putting items such as screws, nuts, bolts, gravel, or other items to act as abrasives, you have to think about how you're going to get all of it out again .. along with the rust and trash the abrasive additives remove. A chemical is more effective, it reduces contaminants into a liquid form that is easier to suck out.

A venturi-style vacuum generator device, run off your air compressor, such as the one used by tire fitters, to suck debris out of tires, is a handy device for cleaning tanks right out.
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Mon, Nov 9, 2009 7:23 AM
Bruce P
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Reply to OzDozer:
A slightly caustic chemical added to the tank, before you hit it with the steam cleaner will work just fine. Truck wash detergent that has around 2% caustic soda (lye) added in the formula, is very effective. You can also use a handful of dishwasher powder, it's got caustic additives.

Adding things like screws is O.K. for small tanks .. I think d2dm may be thinking of pony fuel tanks. However, anything you add to a tank has to be completely removed, so I can't recommend adding anything more than a liquid that can be sucked out, and the tank dried out.

Once you start putting items such as screws, nuts, bolts, gravel, or other items to act as abrasives, you have to think about how you're going to get all of it out again .. along with the rust and trash the abrasive additives remove. A chemical is more effective, it reduces contaminants into a liquid form that is easier to suck out.

A venturi-style vacuum generator device, run off your air compressor, such as the one used by tire fitters, to suck debris out of tires, is a handy device for cleaning tanks right out.
I've had good results with phosforic acid in low concintration. We use the stuff as starter fertillizer for our wheat. It works great on rust and is water soluble and it's not super hot so you've got a day or two to let it work. You should be able to get it from your local farm chemical dealer. Save it when you drain it and spread it on your garden.
Good luck

Bruce
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Mon, Nov 9, 2009 7:58 AM
TomP-TX
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Reply to Bruce P:
I've had good results with phosforic acid in low concintration. We use the stuff as starter fertillizer for our wheat. It works great on rust and is water soluble and it's not super hot so you've got a day or two to let it work. You should be able to get it from your local farm chemical dealer. Save it when you drain it and spread it on your garden.
Good luck

Bruce
I sealed my D2 seat tank with a product made by KBS Coatings. It uses a three step process to clean, etch and then seal the metal. When I used the Aqua Blast Cleaner I put a piece of chain and a few lag bolts to help scrub the inside of the tank. The process took several day's and the help of my brother-in-law to pick-up and slosh the tank around but I believe it did a very good job.
http://www.rustymetalpaint.com/Gas-Tank-Sealers_c_13.html

Tom
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Mon, Nov 9, 2009 10:05 AM
Jack
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Reply to TomP-TX:
I sealed my D2 seat tank with a product made by KBS Coatings. It uses a three step process to clean, etch and then seal the metal. When I used the Aqua Blast Cleaner I put a piece of chain and a few lag bolts to help scrub the inside of the tank. The process took several day's and the help of my brother-in-law to pick-up and slosh the tank around but I believe it did a very good job.
http://www.rustymetalpaint.com/Gas-Tank-Sealers_c_13.html

Tom
Bear in mind that all the Cat fuel tanks I have looked at had baffles welded inside, and the welding technology of 1950 tended to furrow next to the beads leaving thin spots. If you have rust, it will be worst at these weld joints. If you put in acid, the etching will open up these pores and cracks and unless you have a pretty darned good tank it will become a leaker.

I go with plain steam cleaning, caustic soap rather than acidic. Hang it upside down and work from underneath so it will drain as you work. Flush it out with water, hot preferred, and let it dry in the sun or use a not-too-hot heat gun blowing through it.

Also, realize that the D2 had a great fuel filter system. A little powder rust will never make it to the pumps.

I have had no experience with liner chemicals, don't know but what they might be good. I have used fiberglass/epoxy type tank bandages to good effect but you have to have the tank absolutely clean and degreased inside the break and outside so fuel doesn't crawl out before the bandage is cured.
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Mon, Nov 9, 2009 11:35 AM
Cysco
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Reply to Jack:
Bear in mind that all the Cat fuel tanks I have looked at had baffles welded inside, and the welding technology of 1950 tended to furrow next to the beads leaving thin spots. If you have rust, it will be worst at these weld joints. If you put in acid, the etching will open up these pores and cracks and unless you have a pretty darned good tank it will become a leaker.

I go with plain steam cleaning, caustic soap rather than acidic. Hang it upside down and work from underneath so it will drain as you work. Flush it out with water, hot preferred, and let it dry in the sun or use a not-too-hot heat gun blowing through it.

Also, realize that the D2 had a great fuel filter system. A little powder rust will never make it to the pumps.

I have had no experience with liner chemicals, don't know but what they might be good. I have used fiberglass/epoxy type tank bandages to good effect but you have to have the tank absolutely clean and degreased inside the break and outside so fuel doesn't crawl out before the bandage is cured.
Thanks for all the good info guys....The tank I have is in really good shape as far as I can tell. I used a mirror with a light attached to inspect and all I could see was a good bit of surface rust and some "slime". I will try the steam cleaner with a one of the above cleaners and see what happens.
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Mon, Nov 9, 2009 5:09 PM
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