D2 Pony Starting/running Issues.

Hi, check your fuel line from the tank to the carb, those tanks get sediment and scale in them from condensation and lodge in the fuel line and shut-off valve. remove the line at the carb and shut-off valve and blow it out with compressed air. should take care of it. also check the screen in the shut-off valve. Thats a common problem, the engine is just not getting enough fuel to run faster, just enough to run at idle or half speed.

You can also add a sediment bowl under the tank if it doesn't have one. Cat now has the metal ones instead of the old glass type. Forgot the part # though.

Thanks guys I'll give that a try. The tank does have the sediment bowl, glass type on it. I took the bowl off and cleaned it out, it did have some crud in it fine stuff nothing large.

Kevin

I agree with Rome,

If you have a gas shut off valve by the pony clutch, take it apart. There is a screen in them that get's plugged restricting the flow-glen

As OZ suggested always turn the gas off and also let it stall out using up the gas left in the carb., don,t just turn the switch off to stop it. That goes for all starting engines and left on it is a killer for an engine caused from dilution of the oil by the gas diluting the oil caused by gas seeping down in the oil from vibration of the float etc. in the carb.I have seen them from dilution to not even want to start and just changing the oil it would start right up then.Again shut off gas and let it stall out after burning all the gas up in the carb.

I've changed the oil in the pony and what came out was a bit on the thin side just eyeballing it. I do shut off the fuel and let the pony burn off the gas left in the carb.

This afternoon I blow out the fuel lines from the tank to the carb. It started up real nice but still did not want to run up to speed.

Kevin

After rebuild of the main on my D2, pony started having a problem like your discribing. The best discription I can up with is it sort of wanted to run. Would Idle, but as it got warmer it got worse. While trying to get a handle on the problem, I noticed that I was getting blow back through carb. Checked compression, a little low but even. I rebuilt carb, fresh oil, ect. No go. Finaly pulled pony and pulled apart. Found rods bearings past clearance limits and the mains at limit. Got as amny new parts as possible, rod bearings, rings, honed cylinders, and ground valves. Compression back up, runs much better. I know I didn't fix the way would have liked, but for a tractor that gets 50 to 60 hours use a year, I had spent enough $$ on the main already.

Hope this helps
Tim

Many times I,ve seen low power caused by too lean a mixture in the carb. so just a high speed needle adjustment will help.Talking about the float setting,I have rebuilt dozens of them and I always put the float in place and then turn the bowl with the float in place upside down (horizonal) so the float was parallel and sticking up in the air and adjust the float so it,s parallel with the bowl base and they always worked perfect.