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D2 Pony Motor over heating

D2 Pony Motor over heating

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DavidCatD2
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I just purchased a D2 3J. I got the Pony Motor running and it is overheating and not heating the water in the big Diesel Engine even though I am turning the Diesel Engine over with the pony motor. The diesel engine smokes but won't start and I have to shut off the pony motor as it is burning hot. My question is where is the water passage way that must be still clogged in the pony motor so it does not flow into the diesel engine and how do I unclog it? I have already done all the following from reading posts on ACMOC: I have pulled the pony motor heads and washed out all the sludge in the water ways and took out the drain plug/cock below the oil drain pipe and put a wire through it and got water flowing out through that. Re-Started the Pony motor and I do engage the diesel motor and the pony motor still over heats. Pulled heads again and water is in the pony motor and flushed the water system out again though radiator, drained water again, refilled with water and still pony motor is burning hot and water is not circulating into Diesel Engine. pony motor does not have an air bleed on top of it and I don't think it is just air locked. I took out themostat housing and flushed water through diesel engine fine. Where is the plugged up water passage and what do I have to do to fix this.
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Wed, Jan 1, 2014 2:34 AM
Dozerman51
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Better check the thermostat and water pump to see that they are operating properly. What is the serial number of your 3J?
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Wed, Jan 1, 2014 3:10 AM
DavidCatD2
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Reply to Dozerman51:
Better check the thermostat and water pump to see that they are operating properly. What is the serial number of your 3J?
3J3016SP is the serial number. I need someone to explain how the water flows around the pony motor and the diesel engine so I ge the big picture. I have the themostat out still in the housing so I can test it for you if you tell me what to do. I thought even if the themostat does not get hot enough to open the diesel water pump would still circulate the water through both the engines to warm up the diesel and then open up to the radiator if hot enough. Does water come in through the bottom of the diesel engine into the bottom of the pony motor and go out through the top of the pony motor back into the diesel head? How can I see if the water pump is working also like you suggest? If need I will pull the pony motor but would like to advoid that.
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Wed, Jan 1, 2014 3:31 AM
Dozerman51
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Reply to DavidCatD2:
3J3016SP is the serial number. I need someone to explain how the water flows around the pony motor and the diesel engine so I ge the big picture. I have the themostat out still in the housing so I can test it for you if you tell me what to do. I thought even if the themostat does not get hot enough to open the diesel water pump would still circulate the water through both the engines to warm up the diesel and then open up to the radiator if hot enough. Does water come in through the bottom of the diesel engine into the bottom of the pony motor and go out through the top of the pony motor back into the diesel head? How can I see if the water pump is working also like you suggest? If need I will pull the pony motor but would like to advoid that.
Hi David,
Yes the Water flows from bottom of the engine water passages around the cylinder walls etc to the bottom of the flywheel housing up through pony and into the head of the diesel along the top of the head to the water pump into the top upper elbow and hose to the radiator down on through to the lower radiator tank then through the lower water pipe then the water pump and the sequence begins again. When you are cranking the diesel with the compression release lever in the 'Run" positon is the top area of the diesel engine block nearest the pony getting wrm at all. The heat starts there and works it way to the front of the block when spinning the diesel.
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Wed, Jan 1, 2014 4:33 AM
DavidCatD2
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Reply to Dozerman51:
Hi David,
Yes the Water flows from bottom of the engine water passages around the cylinder walls etc to the bottom of the flywheel housing up through pony and into the head of the diesel along the top of the head to the water pump into the top upper elbow and hose to the radiator down on through to the lower radiator tank then through the lower water pipe then the water pump and the sequence begins again. When you are cranking the diesel with the compression release lever in the 'Run" positon is the top area of the diesel engine block nearest the pony getting wrm at all. The heat starts there and works it way to the front of the block when spinning the diesel.
After we tried to start the Diesel engine in the run position, we checked to see the Diesel engine was warm and it was still cold
but the cylinder it seem by the pony motor was a tiny bit warm and the pony motor was shut off because it was burning hot.
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Wed, Jan 1, 2014 5:13 AM
Dozerman51
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Reply to DavidCatD2:
After we tried to start the Diesel engine in the run position, we checked to see the Diesel engine was warm and it was still cold
but the cylinder it seem by the pony motor was a tiny bit warm and the pony motor was shut off because it was burning hot.
Have you flushed the diesel block real good? Disconnect the upper and lower hose and or pipe from the radiator, flush the diesel block real good with water and air pressure if possible. The pony water passage into the Diesel head and the lower bellhousing passage could still be plugged. You will need to remove pony and check these. I would check the whole cooling system from radiator to pony. Get a servicemans reference book if you don't have one. Without one of those, your lost.
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Wed, Jan 1, 2014 5:49 AM
DavidCatD2
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Reply to Dozerman51:
Have you flushed the diesel block real good? Disconnect the upper and lower hose and or pipe from the radiator, flush the diesel block real good with water and air pressure if possible. The pony water passage into the Diesel head and the lower bellhousing passage could still be plugged. You will need to remove pony and check these. I would check the whole cooling system from radiator to pony. Get a servicemans reference book if you don't have one. Without one of those, your lost.
OK, Thanks for the recommendation. I have already purchased the pony motor bottom and top of pony motor to diesel head gaskets.
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Wed, Jan 1, 2014 6:00 AM
ccjersey
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I think your pony motor has an air bubble.

Later models had an air bleed and there was some information on this board several years ago about where to drill to add one to the older models. The D2/D4 pony motors don't have their own water pump and as a result, an air bubble stops the flow through the pony quite easily. Of course it is entirely possible that you still have sediment blocking the circulation which will be evident once you remove the pony from the clutch housing.

I know the D311 pony I have the most experience with would get very hot if I forgot to bleed the air from it.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, Jan 1, 2014 8:05 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ccjersey:
I think your pony motor has an air bubble.

Later models had an air bleed and there was some information on this board several years ago about where to drill to add one to the older models. The D2/D4 pony motors don't have their own water pump and as a result, an air bubble stops the flow through the pony quite easily. Of course it is entirely possible that you still have sediment blocking the circulation which will be evident once you remove the pony from the clutch housing.

I know the D311 pony I have the most experience with would get very hot if I forgot to bleed the air from it.
There is a cross over cooling passage cast into the bottom of the pony block that does not have alignment that allows roding for cleaning without removing the pony and working from the bottom. Even then there are offsets to the passage that makes cleaning difficult. Also a possibility that sediment (that turns into cement) may be built up in the passage that goes from the main engine, through the flywheel housing and up into the bottom of the pony block.
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Wed, Jan 1, 2014 8:28 AM
ag-mike
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Reply to Old Magnet:
There is a cross over cooling passage cast into the bottom of the pony block that does not have alignment that allows roding for cleaning without removing the pony and working from the bottom. Even then there are offsets to the passage that makes cleaning difficult. Also a possibility that sediment (that turns into cement) may be built up in the passage that goes from the main engine, through the flywheel housing and up into the bottom of the pony block.
airlock, besure to bleed 1st, or, rust filled passages in the heads. pull heads 2nd and check 4 rust, easy todo and u can use the gaskets over.

good luck.
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Wed, Jan 1, 2014 8:59 AM
drujinin
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Reply to ag-mike:
airlock, besure to bleed 1st, or, rust filled passages in the heads. pull heads 2nd and check 4 rust, easy todo and u can use the gaskets over.

good luck.
The passage through the flywheel housing will allow the engine water to drain.
Its when you try to go up the passage to the Pony where you will find the issue.
Put an air connector on that drain pipe, fill system with water.
Then take the Pony head off the same side as the drain pipe.
Put air pressure on it (no more than 15psi), if it isn't blocked you should get water/crud/air blowing up towards the Pony.
Almost certain you will end up pulling the Pony to clean that passage way as it is easily blocked.
If this doesn't help then there is large anounts of crud laying in the bottom of the main cooling jacket blocking the flow.
I am temporarily ruling that out as you said water drains from the petcock.
I got a J series out of Michigan that overheated exactly as you described.
The 90 year old owner was so proud of the fact that he ALWAYS ran water. Well the Pony cooling circuit was plugged and when I pulled the #3 piston and liner, you could see almost 2 inches of rusty muddy crud build up in the Main Jacket.
As far as drilling and tapping the Pony for a bleeder on the same side as Choke/Throttle Controls.
It will definitely help in the battle of air lock as it is a design flwa to leave this out!
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Wed, Jan 1, 2014 7:45 PM
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