D2 pony float adjustment

never had issues with floats maintaining a level whether they were the new solid ones, the old cork ones, or the hollow brass ones. set the float elvel as per the book and they have always been good.

If your having difficulty maintaining a level int he carburetor, i would suspect you have a fuel supply, or a needle and seat issue. How do you know your carb level is low? maybe the level is fine but you have a plugged passageway in the carb body that simulates a low float level situation.

[quote="rmyram"]never had issues with floats maintaining a level whether they were the new solid ones, the old cork ones, or the hollow brass ones. set the float elvel as per the book and they have always been good.

If your having difficulty maintaining a level int he carburetor, i would suspect you have a fuel supply, or a needle and seat issue. How do you know your carb level is low? maybe the level is fine but you have a plugged passageway in the carb body that simulates a low float level situation.[/quote]
Hi Roger,
seat, needle, and float are new. Blowing through the lines from the gas tank filler opening through into the bowl shows good flow as does letting gas run so I think I'm good there.
I've had the carb apart and checked all the passages including that one. I wondered about the float level because with the top off and the float out, there's about a 1/4" of fuel in the bowl. Obviously the float consumes some space in there but my other carb shows the fuel level higher. Also, if I fill the bowl up to about where the other one sits, it runs ok until it consumes that "extra" fuel and then stumbles again. The washer under the seat is "generously" proportioned so that might not be helping either. Anyhoo, I have a spare float so was going to experiment with it but wondered if anyone had already tried. Those new floats do vary a bit in dimensions.

The new floats have a cellular interior. suspect that would cause problems if the outer skin is removed.

Hi Neil, I wonder if the new needle and seat are a slightly different dimension to the old one's, like the new needle is slightly longer?

Thanks Stephen, that's what I wanted to know.
Mike, I'm going to track down a thinner washer gasket as the new one that came with the seat is pretty thick.
Also sent the fuel tank valve / sediment bowl body to my guy to get him to mill the valve seat flat to fix the leak (valve won't shut all the way off). He's also going to cut some new 3/8 pipe thread into the stub that's remaining after I broke the original thread off when I ran over it......

"when I ran over it......" That sounds like something I'd do Neil with my size #11 boots, I'm always stepping on things I shouldn't!

Root cause found - float is too long for the bowl. I sat it in there to check its buoyancy and noticed that there wasn't a lot of room at each end. Fitted it back to the top, inverted the carb, sat the bowl top and float in position, righted the carb, float did not drop. So despite Stephen's guidance : ), I got out the box cutter and trimmed it to verify that it was too long. Goes up and down just fine now, so in a roundabout way, the fuel level was too low but not because of float adjustment, but instead because of float dimensions. McDonald carb sell a short green unit which I'll pick up tomorrow. My too-long one I think I got from BFIC and is a black unit. I'll give it a run in fuel anyway and if it gets gas-logged, well I have a new one on the way.
One step closer!

i bought cat floats from the local finning dealer, never even thought of going aftermarket, i assumed you had also bought cat parts from the dealer so it never crossed my mind that th float was the wrong dimension, good job getting it figured out.