D2 Pony carb rebuilding

I have been tinkering with the "Lynda" D2 in hopes of getting it running one day. I scrounged up an Eisemann magneto from my wrench guy, as the others I sent out for rebuilding are taking too long for my liking. I cleaned out the carb bowl the best I know how, stripping it down to nothing, with exception of drilling out the soft plugs. Best I could get out of it was 5 seconds of running. I must have wound the rope 40x and wished it had an electric starter!

Back to the drawing board: I removed the magneto to get the entire carb out this time. I have never ever had to do anything aside from clean the carb bowl to make one run. Long story, I have completely stripped it down and am waiting for my kit to arrive via Amazon. It was a little more $, but I had other items to purchase through them anyways. QUESTION: Has anyone used the "Economy Pony Carb Repair Kit" sold by JJAgParts? I also purchased a can of the carb/parts cleaner with a basket.

Aside from keeping a supply of the "Bullseye" gasket, I have never purchased anything for a pony carb. I am not a mechanic, so wish me lots of luck. JM

As most of us out here in the Caterpillar community have had our fair share of pony carburetor issues with countless cleanings and rebuildings, I have discovered that most issues revolve around the main jet. In my experience I have broken several upon removal and the successfully removed ones are usually clogged and have even found them cracked. I typically soak all parts in the gallon sized can of Chem Dip for at least a day and sometimes for several days if I get sidetracked, which is often. No, it doesn't damage the metal like the can says it might. I then take a jet cleaning kit, which is basically an assortment of different diameter needles and wires, and poke out the holes in combination with compressed air. That typically solves most issues.

I've found new main jets on ebay that are about $40 these days. I also found a good site that sells individual gaskets for the bowl and bowl to body etc. for pretty cheap versus buying the whole rebuild kit that I usually end up with parts I don't need. Here's a link to that site:

Individual Gasket- V4 Pony Motor carbs, Bowl to Body Gasket - Robert's Carburetor Repair https://share.google/2X9iIUftkZdhQlxu1

Hope this helps.

CrawlerAddict

Mr. Juiceman, Where is that 40 time wrapped around pulled rope now?

Yes, I understand, now we can all chuckle, even JM and his magic rope are at the mercy of the infamous stating engines.

Thanks for the confirmation, you have given us assurance it is not just our plight. Cts

Don't forget to check the idle jet plug, in the venturi throat. Getting that one right allows my ponies to idle at 500 no problem

That is the most exercise I have had in some time. All good. Part of my issue was my float level. I soaked everything for 6 hours, except for the carb body itself, which got an overnighter. Used my torch tip cleaners and plenty of compressed air. I will make it run...I have a D4 pony that will idle very low, sounds like a Harley engine. When CTS gets to see it, I will save it just for HIM. Thanks for the tips! JM

JM, Thank you. 40 times wraping that rope has me with a question, which side of the flywheel was the "live" end of the rope lying- top or bottom? It may make the difference! (Everyone can laugh now, we have all heard of that issue) ---cts

I wrap the rope the like the wrong way on a roll of toilet tissue...do not run to the bathroom to refresh your memory. That is my pet peeve btw...we can have a debate about TP direction in another thread...

I am sure my float position was way off, but rather than continually removing/gutting the carb, I will attempt to do it proper this "one" time. I would be tickled if I can make this one run like "JD"aka Jaw Dropper, which always starts easily without any swear words. It is my favorite little D2 with the Souza pads which I use often for recovery missions. Often a person will start it on the first pull, go into panic mode, run around like a little girl screaming and arms flailing. At that point I ask the person if they are going to finish starting the machine or ? Yes, I left that one alone. It starts well enough, why mess with it by adding electric start!

Wrong way rope wrap? That was one of my trucker/logger friends from Nevada I believe. He said as a pre-teen given a big boy/man's job, he was in tears because he wore himself out pulling the rope. His uncle walked up hours later and started it on one tug. Lesson learned. JM

Everyone must be in their bathrooms deciding which direction the roll is supposed to unravel...

Update since it rained and I don't want to get myself muddy:

I am still waiting for the higher priced kit (I hope it is worth the wait). The fuel tank had approximately an inch of DIRT inside of it, and it needed more cleaning. "Breadler" stopped by to visit and suggested Muriatic acid with a baking soda rinse; I couldn't find any here, so I tried some CLR (more toilet stuff lol) and let it work for a few hours along with a fist full of 7/16" hex nuts for sound effect; I shook rattled and rolled the tank repeatedly thinking it is easier to wrap the rope 40x than what I was doing. 4x I repeated the process and got it very shiney clean inside FINALLY. If I had something to spin the tank around, I would have done so. NO cement mixer here or anything to improvise with. Finishing the process with some high grain vinegar; used my tip cleaners and air nozzle. The hardest part waits; that delivery person isn't fast enough this time. Never purchased via Amazon where an item takes over a week to deliver!

When it runs again, I might have to bolt up a toolbar blade to the little tractor.

JM, I don't know if you have a wheel tractor at your disposal, but I have heard of a fuel tank being strapped to the rear wheel of a tractor to facilitate agitation (Of the tank, but possibly the operator too).

The tank on my auction D4 was such a mess I didn't try to clean it. I fitted a plastic tank with 1/4" barb fitting to ATV inline filter and valve. No more sediment problems. The filter bowel not being available spurred my decision. I kept the old parts of course. I get excellent delivery from Amazon.

I did want to strap the tank to something, but my only wheel tractor isn't here at the moment.

My biggest worry was cleaning the tank until it was paper thin and sprung a leak! I drilled the inlet side of the valve to accept a 1/4" diameter riser of copper or Synflex; anything that settles in the bottom shouldn't get into the fuel. If it gets dirty again, I will remove the tank for cleaning; I have never had issues adding a stem/riser aside from making sure the tank is filled above it. I get great service from Amazon too, but I believe it is the seller/storefront that offered the kits for sale. No worries, plenty of other things to do here.

Worse case scenario I could use one of the spare tanks I have here. Thanks guys. JM