D2 Fuel System problem

What you could try first is remove the main line from the tank to the pump and remove the block it screws in to and check the spring and relief valve inside it as many times the crud will hold it off it,s seat so clean it and even stretch the spring a little and see what happens.Also turn the fuel on with the main fuel line off the block yet and see if it has a good flow from it and will wash any crud out of the line.If all fails then you may have to look into the pump itself.

Thanks for the comment. I'll have a look at the check valve to see if there is any junk in it. If there is, I'll also drag a rag through the main fuel line.

54D2

54D2, Try the things SJ has suggested first. If those things check out OK remove the side cover off the injection pump. Look to see that the rack is moving when you pull the throttle open. On my D2 it was frozen up a bit and wouldn't allow the fuel pumps to rotate and open. Once I got that figured out my tractor came right to life!!!!

Be careful if the rack is froze up a bit. If you move the rack a little too far the engine might want to run away on you because the governor(spring) can't close the rack to slow or (maintain) the engine speed. Luckily, I was advised by the guys on here to have a board to throw over the air intake tube.(precleaner assembly removed). My tractor would have run away on me and possibly self destructed.

Thanks for the comment. I'll have a look at the check valve to see if there is any junk in it. If there is, I'll also drag a rag through the main fuel line.

54D2

I took the check valve off of the bottom of the pump, and it appeared to be clean and ok. I also ran a rag through the fuel line from the tank to the pump, but it was also ok. I put everything back together and it did the same thing; the air bled out of the filter housing, but was not able to get the fuel pressure gauge into the green zone, and when I opened the bleeders near the injectors, no air or fuel came out.

I can take the transfer pump off and take apart and have a look. Is there a rebuild kit available for the pump?

I don't think you will necessarily get the gauge in the green with just the pony motor turning it. It's only running at about half idle speed when the pony it turning it. Maybe with a good pump, but one still "good enough" will come up in the green as the engine speeds up.

Where you are bleeding now on the pump housing bleeds, the fuel has to go through the filters and down into the fuel passage of the injection pump housing and then up into each individual pump. As has been suggested before, take the cover off the side of the injection pump housing and make sure the rack will move back and forth as you open and close the throttle. If not, work the stuck plunger(s) up and down with a screwdriver while spraying with penetrating lubricant. Once they move up and the spring brings them back down to follow the cam, they should twist in the bores easily enough for the governor spring to move the rack to the FUEL ON position.

It's also possible for the rack to be sticking in the bore it slides in, but not as common as the plungers sticking in the pumps.

Also possible for the throttle control to be in the FUEL SHUTOFF position. More than one has been solved by a good hard snatch on the lever that got the linkage past whatever was causing it to bind.

I took off the side plate below the injector pumps, and the plungers are all free and move up and down with rotation of the engine. The rack is also free; it moves forward and back very easily. The rack moves when the throttle is opened about half.

I have been able to verify I have some fuel up to the injectors, as I have loosened the fuel lines at the injectors slightly, and have gotten some air and fuel out of each one. The fuel pressure gauge is about half way on the dial when the engine is turning.

The diesel engine still doesn't start. I've allowed the pony motor to run the engine for about 5 minutes with the compression release in the run position. and opened the throttle a little over half, and nothing happens. There is no white smoke at all. I cracked the fuel line connection at the injectors and get some fuel and still a few air bubbles.

I feel I must be missing something obvious... Ive only got about 3 gallon of fuel in the diesel tank, as I thought I'd get it started and out of the shed before I filled it up. Could the fuel level in the tank be too low?

Yes the system could be starving for fuel so I,d try putting about 15 gal. in then see if it starts after you bleed it out good again.Sounds like some air there when your bleeding that the low fuel is sucking air and fuel. When you put more fuel in and it still doesn,t want to start with some fuel pressure then I,d give the air cleaner a couple sniffs of starting fluid and see what happens. Is the starting engine turning at enough RPMs so open the throttle a little more if your limiting the speed.

When you set the compression release to run, does the pony motor load down? Just wondering if you have any compression. Have you tried any starting fluid or WD40?

I saw a new one the other day, a diesel will crank on some gasoline soaked on a rag in the intake air stream! Never would have thought it, but it works.