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D2 flywheel clutch stuck

D2 flywheel clutch stuck

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64farmboy
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The D2 runs well and now my next deal to fix is the flywheel clutch. The lever is stuck in the forward position (not engaged) . I cannot get it in gear when its running as it acts just like the clutch is engaged. should I try to start it with it in gear to break it loose or whats everyones suggestions? This machine had set out at least 5 years. (Main Motor runs sweet!)
sorry to keep asking all these questions, its kind of like my 3 year old granddaughter whats that! whats that!😉

Dennie😊
Restored 1970 ford tractor,1931 Model A PU streetrod, lifted 1978 F150, 1971 VW bug, antique chain saws
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Wed, Apr 21, 2010 6:31 PM
ccjersey
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I would not try to break it loose when the lever isn't working back and forth properly. The ones that break loose and work properly after snap in and out properly or can be adjusted to work properly.

I would open up the clutch and see what's frozen or jammed or whatever. Just start by wiggling the lever and see what moves along the line. If you get movement all the way to the release bearing and collar, then it's possible your adjustment has come unlocked and screwed it's self down tight.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, Apr 21, 2010 6:55 PM
drujinin
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Somewhere else there is a post on this subject?
Last summer I helped a friend get a totally restored R2 out of the shed and the clutch was stuck in that also but in that case the condition of the clutch is a known.
Your clutch condition is unknown.
Have you tried squirting the shafts, splines and linkages to loosen up any rusted stuck parts?
A diesel you need to be standing beside it to get it started, then you need to be pointed into a big field in case it gets away. In a subdivision, in the garage is not a good place to be! If you can't stop it, it will do alot of damage till it stops! If you do decide to do this, then tie the steering clutch levers back to disengage those to prevent it from moving.
If it was me I would do it if I knew that I may end up pulling the engine to work on the clutch.
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Wed, Apr 21, 2010 7:00 PM
64farmboy
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Reply to drujinin:
Somewhere else there is a post on this subject?
Last summer I helped a friend get a totally restored R2 out of the shed and the clutch was stuck in that also but in that case the condition of the clutch is a known.
Your clutch condition is unknown.
Have you tried squirting the shafts, splines and linkages to loosen up any rusted stuck parts?
A diesel you need to be standing beside it to get it started, then you need to be pointed into a big field in case it gets away. In a subdivision, in the garage is not a good place to be! If you can't stop it, it will do alot of damage till it stops! If you do decide to do this, then tie the steering clutch levers back to disengage those to prevent it from moving.
If it was me I would do it if I knew that I may end up pulling the engine to work on the clutch.
Thanks guys, I pulled the inspection cover off last night, the handle does move everything to the pilot bearing. appears to be some rust down in there, I hit all the moving parts with PB blaster. I'll check the clutch adjustment this morning. Your right I posted this under another subject but reread it and it was confusing

Dennie
Restored 1970 ford tractor,1931 Model A PU streetrod, lifted 1978 F150, 1971 VW bug, antique chain saws
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Wed, Apr 21, 2010 7:22 PM
64farmboy
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Reply to 64farmboy:
Thanks guys, I pulled the inspection cover off last night, the handle does move everything to the pilot bearing. appears to be some rust down in there, I hit all the moving parts with PB blaster. I'll check the clutch adjustment this morning. Your right I posted this under another subject but reread it and it was confusing

Dennie
Gentlemen, Once more I appreciate your incite. I adjusted the clutch back loosened the clutch plate then readjusted it forward so I have a good "snapover" took it out for a spin and all worked well.
I have one more issue to address, the right hand steering clutch is limp, I pulled the inspection cover off and hit it with PB blaster & will fool with it later. Once I get that fixed I can steam clean it and take care of some minor oil leaks. Then I'll push some dirt
Thanks Again
Dennie😊
Restored 1970 ford tractor,1931 Model A PU streetrod, lifted 1978 F150, 1971 VW bug, antique chain saws
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Wed, Apr 21, 2010 10:09 PM
cojhl2
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Reply to drujinin:
Somewhere else there is a post on this subject?
Last summer I helped a friend get a totally restored R2 out of the shed and the clutch was stuck in that also but in that case the condition of the clutch is a known.
Your clutch condition is unknown.
Have you tried squirting the shafts, splines and linkages to loosen up any rusted stuck parts?
A diesel you need to be standing beside it to get it started, then you need to be pointed into a big field in case it gets away. In a subdivision, in the garage is not a good place to be! If you can't stop it, it will do alot of damage till it stops! If you do decide to do this, then tie the steering clutch levers back to disengage those to prevent it from moving.
If it was me I would do it if I knew that I may end up pulling the engine to work on the clutch.
[quote="drujinin"]Somewhere else there is a post on this subject?
Last summer I helped a friend get a totally restored R2 out of the shed and the clutch was stuck in that also but in that case the condition of the clutch is a known.
Your clutch condition is unknown.
Have you tried squirting the shafts, splines and linkages to loosen up any rusted stuck parts?
A diesel you need to be standing beside it to get it started, then you need to be pointed into a big field in case it gets away. In a subdivision, in the garage is not a good place to be! If you can't stop it, it will do alot of damage till it stops! If you do decide to do this, then tie the steering clutch levers back to disengage those to prevent it from moving.
If it was me I would do it if I knew that I may end up pulling the engine to work on the clutch.[/quote]

Or just leave the valves open
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Wed, Apr 21, 2010 10:36 PM
Chuck C
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Reply to cojhl2:
[quote="drujinin"]Somewhere else there is a post on this subject?
Last summer I helped a friend get a totally restored R2 out of the shed and the clutch was stuck in that also but in that case the condition of the clutch is a known.
Your clutch condition is unknown.
Have you tried squirting the shafts, splines and linkages to loosen up any rusted stuck parts?
A diesel you need to be standing beside it to get it started, then you need to be pointed into a big field in case it gets away. In a subdivision, in the garage is not a good place to be! If you can't stop it, it will do alot of damage till it stops! If you do decide to do this, then tie the steering clutch levers back to disengage those to prevent it from moving.
If it was me I would do it if I knew that I may end up pulling the engine to work on the clutch.[/quote]

Or just leave the valves open
Farmboy, hook the D2 toa disk and work it while holding the clutch disengaged and riding the brake. You might get lucky and it will break free.
Chuck C
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Thu, Apr 22, 2010 8:32 AM
drujinin
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Reply to Chuck C:
Farmboy, hook the D2 toa disk and work it while holding the clutch disengaged and riding the brake. You might get lucky and it will break free.
Chuck C
I agree with Chuck on that or push dirt if you can.
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Thu, Apr 22, 2010 11:07 PM
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