D2 Fan Belt Replace

Yes I believe if you remove the drive from the crank that the shaft is telescoping over the pump shaft & move it ahead to give room to slip the belt by the coupling.It,s been many years since I changed one unless someone else has more up to date info. on doing it.

There is a set screw #8F4131 that allows the six bolt flange to slide forward after you undo the six bolts as well as telescoping the coupling shaft forward. You may still have to loosen the #44 housing to pull it forward enough for belt clearance.

There is a set screw #8F4131 that allows the six bolt flange to slide forward after you undo the six bolts as well as telescoping the coupling shaft forward. You may still have to loosen the #44 housing to pull it forward enough for belt clearance.

Old Magnet Thanks For The Picture And The Tip On The Set Screw It Took About An Hour Start To Finish The Belt Is On .one Other Thing The Threaed Holes To Pull Off The Coupeling Should Be Mentioned For Any Other Person Attempting To Replace A Belt On This Type Application. Thanks Again Dan

Are you referring to the jacking bolt holes on the flange??? also was there enough clearance without disturbing the #44 housing?? That's making pretty good time for a somewhat dreaded task😄 😄

Old Magnet Yes The Jacking Bolts And We Did Not Have To Move The #44 Housing Turned The Belt On Its Side And Had Plenty Of Clearence. Also Had A Helper To Fetch And Clean. Dan

Got it,
Thanks for the feedback😊

For these kind of dreaded fanbelt access jobs, I've seen guys put TWO belts on, when everything was separated .. and tie the spare belt to parts of the engine, back out the way.
That way, when the operating belt gave up the ghost, all that was required, was to unclip the other new belt that was already in place, and install it.
Wouldn't be too acceptable on a concours show tractor .. but on a working tractor, it's a very practical solution to save a heap of additional work, when belt change time comes around again.