D2 Engine Weight

I think you would be better off following Catsilvers recommendation where you don't need a hoist.............
But if you insist here is some rambling to help.
The whole D2 weighs about 6,610 lbs bare of which I'd guess about 1/3 is engine. The #44 adds another 365 - 400 lbs with guard.
If you were to look at a commercial gantry crane to lift the load the closest unit would be a 2 ton capacity and along with safety factor built in would use a 8 in. high by 4 in. flange I-beam to span 8 ft. I'm sure it's been done with less but those stories are probably best left untold😄 😄

the weight would be about 2200 + 400 = 2600 #
the bending moment on 8 ft span would be 2600x8/4 =5200ft. lbs.

beam section modulus needed=5200x12/18000=3.5in. cube
any beam with that section modulus or more would work---WF beams are more stabile horizontally than I beams

The 8 x 4 beam mentioned would be a wide flange.
According to my steel design handbook they don't make a WF beam with a 3.5 in cube section modulus.

Exactly Old Magnet--bigger is better so that would be the minimum--as you can see i used 18000 psi as the working stress--A36 steel would work but A242 or A588 steel would be better.

OLD -MAG/DEPENDZIC,
Thanks for the input. the catsilver method of removal sounds alittle simpler,however a little more dangerous.
How in the $%#^ would you ever block it good enough to be safe.Also, you know your going to have to adjust it alittle when you couple back up,then what,you sure are not going to wiggle it around like a chev 350.Unless when you build your rigging you preplanned a way to jack it up or down that needed smiggen.How would you do it???

Here's another quick question.
Why is it every time need help,this board responds much more and quicker than the other one. Just curious.

THANKS YOU GUY'S COMPRESSOR

A possible solution is to use a pallet jack in place of an overhead lift. Putting down a couple of railroad ties covered with steel channel would allow you to move the engine a few inches. The pallet jack will also you to build cribbing to lift the motor and customize it to your situation

Why use an untested wooden tripod? remove the spring, let the engine down level and block it up, undo the clutch housing bolts and drag the back end away, it will sit level on the sprockets and pivot bar so no need to block it. A couple of very long 1/2" NC studs will be very useful to help re-assemble the same way.
I have done it this way, engine out, clutch changed and all reassembled in under four hours on the time sheet, so know it can be done.