D2 Diesel / No fuel pressure / will not start

It's not really a gusher is it? Check your fuel tank valve is fully open. You can disconnect the fuel supply line at the transfer pump and check that you get very good flow for that half inch line - make sure it's sustained good flow. Can you supply a video of you cracking open the main throttle with the compression closed and then loosening off an injection line to see what comes out.

Also, update your profile up there on the right "My Profile" with your city and state - there may be a member close by that can help if it's stubborn and won't start.
(edited my post a couple of times : )

It's not really a gusher is it? Check your fuel tank valve is fully open. You can disconnect the fuel supply line at the transfer pump and check that you get very good flow for that half inch line - make sure it's sustained good flow. Can you supply a video of you cracking open the main throttle with the compression closed and then loosening off an injection line to see what comes out.

Also, update your profile up there on the right "My Profile" with your city and state - there may be a member close by that can help if it's stubborn and won't start.
(edited my post a couple of times : )

Do you get heavy white smoke when you pull the throttle open? Many times there is enough wear and lost motion in the throttle linkage to prevent the governor setting actually moving until the throttle is close to wide open. Even if the governor lever moves, the rack inside the fuel pump housing may stay in the fuel shutoff position and prevent fuel injection. This is usually the result of a pump plunger sticking up and its lifter not returning to follow the cam lobe. This will be obvious if you take the side cover off the pump housing and watch the motion of the lifters. Usually a spray of the plunger with penetrating oil and prying with a screw driver on the lifter will get one working again and get the rack moving freely left and right with only gentle pressure.

Wouldn't hurt to spray the bushings the rack slides in on the left and right side of the housing, but those tend not to be the problem........usually a stuck plunger instead. If they do not come back down, they also do not twist, so the rack and fuel setting remains where it was when the plunger stuck. This can be at wide open throttle and result in a runaway after starting, so some caution and preplanning is warranted whenever starting an engine that has been sitting a long time. Pulling the decompression lever is usually the fastest way to get it under control if it does take off. Can also shut off air if you have the top off the air breather and a board, book etc handy. Make a plan ahead of time so you do not waste precious seconds.

The most common cause of low pressure is a faulty pressure relief valve located in the inlet adapter block where the fuel line attaches to the transfer pump. Can also have a worn pump, but the pressure relief spring and poppet are a lot cheaper and easier to fix, so I would start there. When you unbolt the inlet adapter, you can turn on the tank valve and check for good flow by gravity through that point in the system. Sometimes you do not even have to disconnect the fuel line, just remove one or more support clips along the base of the block so the inlet block can drop down without bending the line.

I get very little white smoke when cranking with compression lever set to run and throttle set at 3/4.

Video of opening various bits (if you can manage watching it!)

[video]https://youtu.be/HL-uu3PkwF8[/video]

I'm not sure where the pressure relief valve is on the the lift pump.

I have a parts book photo:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzelDYgfv-KsSmN4U0tOVlZSUnM/view?usp=drivesdk

Edit /Just read above post.

The tractor used to run well, the problem has come around after not being started for a long while.

I am delighted with how well the starter pinion works now - I followed a video guide on you tube by a member of this forum. Really helpful.

I'm not sure where the pressure relief valve is on the the lift pump.

I have a parts book photo:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzelDYgfv-KsSmN4U0tOVlZSUnM/view?usp=drivesdk

Edit /Just read above post.

The tractor used to run well, the problem has come around after not being started for a long while.

I am delighted with how well the starter pinion works now - I followed a video guide on you tube by a member of this forum. Really helpful.

[quote="D2Malvern"]I'm not sure where the pressure relief valve is on the the lift pump.

I have a parts book photo:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzelDYgfv-KsSmN4U0tOVlZSUnM/view?usp=drivesdk

Edit /Just read above post.

The tractor used to run well, the problem has come around after not being started for a long while.

I am delighted with how well the stairs pinion works now - I followed a video guide on you tube by a member of this forum. Really helpful.[/quote]

Remove the adaptor, pull out the spring and the black plastic "plunger" and there's a steel cap on the other end I think - could be wrong. Spring needs to be in good order. If not, get a used one from your local dismantler, try Cat parts, or contact Florin (you can navigate to the "Parts Search" link on machinerytrader.com and enter your part # and it will tell you who has one. Most times when Florin does not show in the listing, they can get it anyway.

I just searched on your behalf and there's a couple of places in the Americas and one in Oz that have them. You can also find a spring that's close enough from the hardware store that would do for an "emergency" fix. You'll also need a new gasket for the adaptor. You can just make one with some gasket paper from your local auto store. Slap some anti-seize on it and it'll not stick next time.

is your fuel pressure gauge working--if it does what does it read?