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D2 Clutch Linkage Wear

D2 Clutch Linkage Wear

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rhartwick
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I keep looking around at some older Cats in my area. I had posted previously about a D2 where the owner put in new steering clutches and throwout bearing, but when I looked at it, the clutches were way out of whack. He called for me to look it over again, having adjusted everything. Looking at it again, the steering clutches all seem to be good now and working well. He said an adjuster nut had come loose. So it has all new steering clutches, and I believe the owner that it does.

Giving it a test drive, the main clutch is odd. The movement is odd, and it really doesn't fully disengage. These machines don't have a clutch brake, so the clutch spins when disengaged, making it grind going into gear. Looking at it closer, there is a lot of slop in the vertical shaft going down through the top case from the top linkage into the clutch mechanism below. It appears to me that this movement in the shaft is using up the clutch movement, so it is not engaging/dis-engaging properly. It seems like an easy fix, to remove the top clamp and replace (or fabricate) a shim to take up the slack in the hole. Without a parts book, I don't know if there is a shim collar there that is replaceable, or if it is a simple hole through the casing that is just plain worn.

Anyway, I told him if he fixed the wear in that part, I would be willing to take another look at it. The tracks are poor, but the engine seems to run great and the blade and other items are in excellent shape, as well as all the sheetmetal.

Is this a normal wear item on these machines? Or is it a major teardown to replace the shaft bushing? It seems like it could be done from the top of the machine and reaching down into the clutch area.
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Thu, Feb 1, 2018 12:02 AM
dpendzic
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if you push the clutch lever all the way forward there is a brake to stop it from spinning---may be worn---
There is a bushing in that cover around the vertical shaft--I got my new one from Cat.
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Thu, Feb 1, 2018 12:15 AM
ccjersey
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Try 1f1871 bushing 1-3/8" long. It appears it should be simple to drive the old one down the shaft with the new one on top of it, but I have not looked at it "in the flesh" as they say. That technique would work until there was a stack of the old ones

Part number is from late 5J parts book and indicated but not shown on transmission and clutch case picture at top front. I cannot think of any other bushing up there, so I am assuming that is it.

Clutch brake is replaceable as it is made in two halves. 2X 4b3435, each with replaceable friction disk 4b3436
Shown on transmission shafts diagram

Depending on how the clutch is adjusted, the brake might work a little better after loosening the adjustment, but most likely the wear on the pivot is most of the problem. I would guess there will be much less wear on the lower pivot because the clutch compartment on the dry clutch machines tended to collect some oil mostly from the release bearing oil cup and have some flung around inside from the engine rear main seal. That lower pivot might have been oiled a few times over the years if not kept oiled constantly. The upper pivot being exposed to the weather and being in the top of the compartment, would not have been as effectively lubed and it has the extra load of the linkage crank just above it.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Thu, Feb 1, 2018 12:51 AM
dpendzic
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i thought it was bushing 1f1871? but that was over 10 years ago when i messed with it
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Thu, Feb 1, 2018 12:58 AM
rhartwick
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Reply to dpendzic:
i thought it was bushing 1f1871? but that was over 10 years ago when i messed with it
Thanks so much for all the help and information so quickly. With that, I am warming up to the machine a lot more now. It has a direct electric start, and even in the cold it started reasonably easy with just a wiff of ether. It's going to need tracks at some point, but they are usable for occasional light grading for now. Of course, without a float position I won't be able to backblade very much:baby:. Looks like I'll have to learn to finish grade the grown up way! Thanks again.
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Thu, Feb 1, 2018 2:37 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to rhartwick:
Thanks so much for all the help and information so quickly. With that, I am warming up to the machine a lot more now. It has a direct electric start, and even in the cold it started reasonably easy with just a wiff of ether. It's going to need tracks at some point, but they are usable for occasional light grading for now. Of course, without a float position I won't be able to backblade very much:baby:. Looks like I'll have to learn to finish grade the grown up way! Thanks again.
when i got my D2 it wouldn't snap into the float position. I then drilled out every pin bore in the linkage and put in a larger one which took out the slop and it then worked.
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Thu, Feb 1, 2018 3:06 AM
neil
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Reply to dpendzic:
when i got my D2 it wouldn't snap into the float position. I then drilled out every pin bore in the linkage and put in a larger one which took out the slop and it then worked.
As GP wrote, I have just addressed mine. If your machine is 5U13273 or up, then there is a bushing in the main clutch cover (a large cast component) which is 4F9786 or if 5U16128-18439, is 6H3973. In any case, in my situation, the hole in that top cover was wallowed out, so even the new bushing I bought for it was loose in the hole. I just today picked up the cover from my guy who opened the hole out to 1.5", and fitted an off-the-shelf bushing that is 1.5 OD / 1 ID and about 1.5 long. He took it down for about a 001 interference fit.
The next step would be to measure the actuating shaft 4B3810 or 5H6218 if 5U16128 and up. Then you have the yoke arms, the bronze throwout collar (available new from general gear), and finally the clutch brake linings.

Up top you have the linkage between the hand lever and the actuating lever.
All those components can add up to lost motion. Finally, as the guys mentioned, there's adjustment.
I have just about all the wear taken out of my unit - last part is the bushing and shaft for the hand lever - then it will be back to brand new. That said, the clutch brake will continue to be "available" with quite a lot of wear so see if any adjustment will at least get you back in motion, but if you do need to fix it, it's not a massive job.

Post your serial # and we can give precise information.
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Thu, Feb 1, 2018 4:42 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to neil:
As GP wrote, I have just addressed mine. If your machine is 5U13273 or up, then there is a bushing in the main clutch cover (a large cast component) which is 4F9786 or if 5U16128-18439, is 6H3973. In any case, in my situation, the hole in that top cover was wallowed out, so even the new bushing I bought for it was loose in the hole. I just today picked up the cover from my guy who opened the hole out to 1.5", and fitted an off-the-shelf bushing that is 1.5 OD / 1 ID and about 1.5 long. He took it down for about a 001 interference fit.
The next step would be to measure the actuating shaft 4B3810 or 5H6218 if 5U16128 and up. Then you have the yoke arms, the bronze throwout collar (available new from general gear), and finally the clutch brake linings.

Up top you have the linkage between the hand lever and the actuating lever.
All those components can add up to lost motion. Finally, as the guys mentioned, there's adjustment.
I have just about all the wear taken out of my unit - last part is the bushing and shaft for the hand lever - then it will be back to brand new. That said, the clutch brake will continue to be "available" with quite a lot of wear so see if any adjustment will at least get you back in motion, but if you do need to fix it, it's not a massive job.

Post your serial # and we can give precise information.
I used JB weld to fix the oblong hole around the bushing. Holding well so far. For slow rotating shafts have been using LOcktite steel reinforced epoxy
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Fri, Feb 2, 2018 1:38 AM
rhartwick
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Reply to neil:
As GP wrote, I have just addressed mine. If your machine is 5U13273 or up, then there is a bushing in the main clutch cover (a large cast component) which is 4F9786 or if 5U16128-18439, is 6H3973. In any case, in my situation, the hole in that top cover was wallowed out, so even the new bushing I bought for it was loose in the hole. I just today picked up the cover from my guy who opened the hole out to 1.5", and fitted an off-the-shelf bushing that is 1.5 OD / 1 ID and about 1.5 long. He took it down for about a 001 interference fit.
The next step would be to measure the actuating shaft 4B3810 or 5H6218 if 5U16128 and up. Then you have the yoke arms, the bronze throwout collar (available new from general gear), and finally the clutch brake linings.

Up top you have the linkage between the hand lever and the actuating lever.
All those components can add up to lost motion. Finally, as the guys mentioned, there's adjustment.
I have just about all the wear taken out of my unit - last part is the bushing and shaft for the hand lever - then it will be back to brand new. That said, the clutch brake will continue to be "available" with quite a lot of wear so see if any adjustment will at least get you back in motion, but if you do need to fix it, it's not a massive job.

Post your serial # and we can give precise information.
"Post your serial # and we can give precise information..."


Thanks again to everyone. I went ahead and purchased the machine. SN is 5U11669, so it appears it will not have the replaceable bushing. Once I get it home I'll look the job over. With everyone's guidance, I should be able to get the movement out of all the various places.
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Fri, Feb 2, 2018 3:00 AM
neil
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Reply to rhartwick:
"Post your serial # and we can give precise information..."


Thanks again to everyone. I went ahead and purchased the machine. SN is 5U11669, so it appears it will not have the replaceable bushing. Once I get it home I'll look the job over. With everyone's guidance, I should be able to get the movement out of all the various places.
I may not be too far away from where you are - I'm in a suburb of Rochester. Where specifically are you located? NormD2 is over by Syracuse I think. If you want, I could swing by one day and "give it an appraisal" : ) You're always welcome to come take a look at my units (a 5U and a 3J) - disclaimer: they are in parts which has the benefit of letting you see what's inside but the downside of not seeing them operate. I'm hoping to take the 5U to Canandaigua this summer if I can get my stuff together...
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Fri, Feb 2, 2018 5:50 AM
bcwayne
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Reply to rhartwick:
"Post your serial # and we can give precise information..."


Thanks again to everyone. I went ahead and purchased the machine. SN is 5U11669, so it appears it will not have the replaceable bushing. Once I get it home I'll look the job over. With everyone's guidance, I should be able to get the movement out of all the various places.
[quote="rhartwick"]"Post your serial # and we can give precise information..."


Thanks again to everyone. I went ahead and purchased the machine. SN is 5U11669, so it appears it will not have the replaceable bushing. Once I get it home I'll look the job over. With everyone's guidance, I should be able to get the movement out of all the various places.[/quote]

I believe if you look closely at the tractor, or at the appropriate parts book for your serial number, you'll see that it does have a bushing. There is a spring beneath the bushing that would prevent you from pounding down a new bushing on top of the old one... not enough compressibility in the spring.

The early "u" series D2's use a different bushing than the later ones... the ID is the same, but the OD is different.

If your tractor has the removable master clutch cover, you can take off that cover and replace the bushing. If it doesn't have the removable cover, you would have to remove the engine to replace it... it's a press fit, and I know of no way to remove it from the top... If someone knows a way, please let us know.
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Fri, Feb 2, 2018 7:09 AM
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