D2 Clutch Drama + Serial Location

Look at that engine serial number tag again, it's probably 5U17313.

Brad, look at the tractor from the rear. On the left side, above the drawbar support bracket, you should see either the same small aluminum tag that was on the engine or the two holes where it was riveted onto the rear, (vertical) face of the steering clutch housing. If you find just the two holes there, scrape the area in between to reveal the serial number stamped into the steel there.

The tractor chasis serial number should match the engine serial number unless the engine has been replaced.

On the stuck main clutch, it really doesn't take a lot of "stuck" to make it impossible to shift the transmission into gear after you crank the engine. Neil is spot on about the pilot bearing. If it is not seized and feels good, look for the grease fitting in the rear face of the flywheel rim so you can pump some grease through it and purge the old stuff before you reassemble the clutch. That bearing doesn't take much greasing, but many of them have never been greased due to the fitting being so hard to find. If the bearing is OK, then just shine everything up, lubricate the pivots and release bearing collar etc and reinstall the clutch. New clutch disks are not all that expensive if yours has much wear or the teeth seem to be getting chewed up.

The "over-center" hand clutch design is one reason why it is recommended that you never leave the seat of the tractor with the engine running unless you place the transmission in neutral (and re-engage the clutch). This ensures that if you bump the clutch lever as you get on or off the tractor, it will not move. Or if the pilot bearing (which is turning whenever the clutch is disengaged with the engine running) were to seize, again, the tractor will not take off on it's own.

[quote="Brad6"]G'day,


Anyway, I have been trying everyones suggestions on the steering clutches and we now have half an inch of "springed" movement in each of these (from completely floppy) I will keep working on them, really don't like the idea of pulling these apart.

Brakes are back in action.

[/quote]

If you have some spring to the steering clutches it is a good sign, they are just stuck, not a failed release bearing.

I would start by taking out as much free play as possible with the adjustment. I guess you will need to get your main clutch working before you go much further on steering clutches.

I would get it in an area where you can run it back and forth. I like to ride the brakes to heat the drums and cause them to break the rust bond. Some guys like to soak them with diesel or solvent. It does not take a lot of liquid if you can run it back and forth a bit to imerse the entire clutch. Maybe a combination of the two methods, but I would not try the brake riding/heat method with liquid in there, it will serve to cool too much. There is the run it into a tree theory. If the brakes work at all they will serve the same purpose and gentler to the Cat. Sharp applications of the brakes (to the point of almost stalling the engine) will do just as much as the tree with less chance of causing damage.

Don't give up, you don't want to take it apart. Let us know what works.

Brad6,

I hope these scans help.

Have a good day....Bill

Nice Bill!! Technical library candidate????

dpendzic,
Now if I could only figure out how the order of pages got reversed except for the cover........Bruce must be have done it... 😊
Bill

Good info ....but sure makes for tough reading for these old eyes.
Single page and larger file size would sure help.

This BB program never has been able to get the order straight.
When you get all the pages loaded, you have to transpose the images along the bottom of the page that shows the line up to get the order you want.