ACMOC
Login
ACMOC
D2 clutch

D2 clutch

Showing 1 to 3 of 3 results
lil d2
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to lil d2
Posts: 29
Thank you received: 0
Ok, I took out my d2 on the weekend and did a bit more trail clearing,about an hours worth.It seems once the machine gets quite warm it is like the clutch isn't engaging there is alot of play in the hand clutch lever as well as the rod that runs into the clutch housing.
Also what are you guys running for oil in your hydraulic resivior.I thought it was a hydraulic only resivior but noticed 2 large hoses going to the front of the machine.I put a 4 gallon jug of that TDH fluid in there and was wondering if that could be part of the problem? Thanks,Mark
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Sep 9, 2010 8:40 AM
ccjersey
Offline
Send a private message to ccjersey
Posts: 4,422
Thank you received: 0
What you're describing sound like a lot of old machines. All the pivot points, pins and linkages are worn so there's a lot of slack in things. Not a big problem as long as it still snaps in when you pull the clutch and the transmission stays locked into gear as long as the clutch is engaged (pulled back).

Is yours slipping? Does it still snap in once it gets hot? Might need to adjust it slightly tighter to account for the change when it gets hot.

Sounds like you have one of the BeeGee pumps or similar mounted on the front of the tractor and the resevoir for the hydraulic oil up on the fender. There should be no communication between that oil and any other oil or dry compartment on the tractor.

However, your clutch may be running in oil which seeped out the rear main bearing of the engine if you haven't drained the clutch compartment in a while. Sometimes you will find that someone has drilled a hole in the drain plug and put a cotter pin in it to rattle around and keep the hole clear so any oil that gets in the clutch compartment can drain away continuously. The oil cup on the clutch release bearing puts oil in to the compartment and also, the rear main bearing on that tractor did not have a seal, instead there is a thread cut on the crankshaft that works any oil that goes that way back into the engine. As the bearing wears, this simple system becomes less effective. The clutch has slingers on it to keep the oil from contaminating the dry clutch linings, but once oil fills the compartment up too high, it will get on everything in there and should be washed away with kerosene or diesel fuel etc by putting a small amount in the compartment and running the engine a bit to splash it around before draining it out.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Sep 9, 2010 10:03 AM
lil d2
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to lil d2
Posts: 29
Thank you received: 0
Reply to ccjersey:
What you're describing sound like a lot of old machines. All the pivot points, pins and linkages are worn so there's a lot of slack in things. Not a big problem as long as it still snaps in when you pull the clutch and the transmission stays locked into gear as long as the clutch is engaged (pulled back).

Is yours slipping? Does it still snap in once it gets hot? Might need to adjust it slightly tighter to account for the change when it gets hot.

Sounds like you have one of the BeeGee pumps or similar mounted on the front of the tractor and the resevoir for the hydraulic oil up on the fender. There should be no communication between that oil and any other oil or dry compartment on the tractor.

However, your clutch may be running in oil which seeped out the rear main bearing of the engine if you haven't drained the clutch compartment in a while. Sometimes you will find that someone has drilled a hole in the drain plug and put a cotter pin in it to rattle around and keep the hole clear so any oil that gets in the clutch compartment can drain away continuously. The oil cup on the clutch release bearing puts oil in to the compartment and also, the rear main bearing on that tractor did not have a seal, instead there is a thread cut on the crankshaft that works any oil that goes that way back into the engine. As the bearing wears, this simple system becomes less effective. The clutch has slingers on it to keep the oil from contaminating the dry clutch linings, but once oil fills the compartment up too high, it will get on everything in there and should be washed away with kerosene or diesel fuel etc by putting a small amount in the compartment and running the engine a bit to splash it around before draining it out.
Thanks ccjersey,the info is very much appreciated.There is some snap when first started up,but once it gets warm there is basically nothing.The machine barely moves or turns.I did adjust the clutch one hole forward but it didn't seem to make a difference.Taking the inspection plate off with the oil cup and feeling and inspecting the clutch I see nor feel no oil on the clutch.
This went from a great little pusher to something that can barely pull its own weight very quick.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Sep 9, 2010 10:24 AM
ccjersey
Offline
Send a private message to ccjersey
Posts: 4,422
Thank you received: 0
I would keep adjusting it tighter and see if you can get it to pull right without being too hard to snap in while it's cold.

I suppose there is always a possiblity that something has come loose on the clutch, but you should see that when you look in there.

If you cannot adjust it enough, then it's time for a clutch disc.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Thu, Sep 9, 2010 10:43 AM
Showing 1 to 3 of 3 results
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

High Weald Steam Working Weekend

Chapter Two

| Freshfield Farm, Sloop Lane, Scaynes Hill RH17 7NP UK

Sibbertoft Annual Muck Shifting Weekend

Chapter Two

| Avalanche adventure, Welford Rd, Sibbertoft LE16 9UJ, UK

Cromford Steam Rally

Chapter Two

| Highacres Farm, Dewey Lane, Brackenfield, Derbyshire DE55 6DB, UK

The Century of Caterpillar

| Elkader, 203 Johnson St, Elkader, IA 52043, USA
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I also joined a year ago. had been on here a couple of times as a non-member and found the info very helpful so I got a one year subscription (not very expensive at all) to try it out. I really like all the resources on here so I just got a three year. I think its a very small price for what you can get out of this site."
-Jason N

Join Today!