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D2 5U steering clutch update

D2 5U steering clutch update

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Oldrnu
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I got around to pulling the inspection covers again and ran some diesel down through the clutch to clean out the gunk and get a better look at what is happening. Per my previous post the right steering clutch had a lot of play in the lever and occasionally had so much it would not disengage. After running the diesel down through it, it will now not disengage at all and the lever is fully rearward. I tried changing the adjustment but couldn't get any change in the lever play/tension. The problem appears to be that the yoke assembly P/N 4B3873 (the part that the pinch bolt is on that holds the adjustment screw) is floating in the housing. This leads me to believe that the bolt P/N L-925 has come loose.
Hopefully the picture attachment comes through.
Assuming I have this right is there any way to access the pivot bolt short of pulling the final drive?
[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Blacktailer/cat_zpsfp14mvu8.jpeg[/img]
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 1:01 AM
Oldrnu
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I also looked at it a little more and it appears that if I pull the PTO it would give me access to that bolt. Anybody know?
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 2:25 AM
ccjersey
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How many joints do you have in your arms? Ha! Ha!

I think the bolt you are looking at just holds the funnel for the oil drip tube, and is not one of the pivot bolts. However I expect the clutch release bearing has failed and is the problem. That might have been why you had a variable pull there for a while.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 2:34 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to ccjersey:
How many joints do you have in your arms? Ha! Ha!

I think the bolt you are looking at just holds the funnel for the oil drip tube, and is not one of the pivot bolts. However I expect the clutch release bearing has failed and is the problem. That might have been why you had a variable pull there for a while.
L-925 does just attach the aluminum funnel. The two larger bolts that hold the yoke to the bearing carrier, I have never seen them get loose, usually they need heroic measures to remove. Best with a offset box wrench and a pry bar wedged to keep the wrench from slipping off the thin bolt head as I beat the wrench handle. I would look closely at the throw out bearing, and for lost motion in the bell crank assembly.
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 2:50 AM
Oldrnu
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Reply to ccjersey:
How many joints do you have in your arms? Ha! Ha!

I think the bolt you are looking at just holds the funnel for the oil drip tube, and is not one of the pivot bolts. However I expect the clutch release bearing has failed and is the problem. That might have been why you had a variable pull there for a while.
The bearing failure does seem more likely. Would that explain the yoke floating? Also odds are that could only be fixed by pulling it all the way down?
Anybody want a parts D2?😞
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 2:56 AM
Steve A
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Reply to STEPHEN:
L-925 does just attach the aluminum funnel. The two larger bolts that hold the yoke to the bearing carrier, I have never seen them get loose, usually they need heroic measures to remove. Best with a offset box wrench and a pry bar wedged to keep the wrench from slipping off the thin bolt head as I beat the wrench handle. I would look closely at the throw out bearing, and for lost motion in the bell crank assembly.
Sorry to say the final drive removal will be necessary. The way I did it was to remove tracks with master pin at the back of the sprocket, roll the top of the track to the front of the tractor and lay out on the floor. Next securely block up the front high enough so you can remove the center spring. Then remove the 4 large nuts that hold the pivot shaft in place, block up the back buy the draw bar. at this point you should be able to roll both track frames and pivot shaft forward on the tracks a foot or so to get them out of the way. At this point the finals can be remove as a assembly.
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 3:03 AM
Oldrnu
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Reply to Steve A:
Sorry to say the final drive removal will be necessary. The way I did it was to remove tracks with master pin at the back of the sprocket, roll the top of the track to the front of the tractor and lay out on the floor. Next securely block up the front high enough so you can remove the center spring. Then remove the 4 large nuts that hold the pivot shaft in place, block up the back buy the draw bar. at this point you should be able to roll both track frames and pivot shaft forward on the tracks a foot or so to get them out of the way. At this point the finals can be remove as a assembly.

OK. Just to be clear, you removed both tracks and moved both track frames forward?
Can you do that without removing the tank and fenders or did those need to come off also?
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 4:39 AM
Steve A
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Reply to Oldrnu:

OK. Just to be clear, you removed both tracks and moved both track frames forward?
Can you do that without removing the tank and fenders or did those need to come off also?
The fenders, seat box have to go, they can be removed as 1 unit,

I went through both steering clutches on mine so it worked out well the way I described it, if you were to do only one side I might take a different approach.

Now that I look at the pictures I didn't remove the spring, I just raised the tractor so the spring would clear the pockets in the track frame

I found a few pics of that project
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 6:43 AM
drujinin
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Reply to Steve A:
The fenders, seat box have to go, they can be removed as 1 unit,

I went through both steering clutches on mine so it worked out well the way I described it, if you were to do only one side I might take a different approach.

Now that I look at the pictures I didn't remove the spring, I just raised the tractor so the spring would clear the pockets in the track frame

I found a few pics of that project
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Its really not that bad! I've done a couple and the last one was a full 10 hour day but I had all the parts necessary too. I took the fender and seat off, then did close to the way Steve did it. The admitted benefit is after the first one you pretty much know what tools you need to do it!
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 8:23 AM
Oldrnu
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Reply to drujinin:
Its really not that bad! I've done a couple and the last one was a full 10 hour day but I had all the parts necessary too. I took the fender and seat off, then did close to the way Steve did it. The admitted benefit is after the first one you pretty much know what tools you need to do it!
OK thanks to you all. Looks like I'll be rolling up my sleeves and diving in.
Looks like the biggest PITA is going to be figuring out the various pullers assuming I can find the correct replacement parts.
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 9:08 PM
jdkoller
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I replaced the clutches on an early D-2 a couple years back. At the time I replaced the cups and tubes with the late model zerks and hoses. The custom hoses and zerks were still available at cat during that time. It requires a little tweaking but it works. A retired old Cat mechanic told me to double check that right transmission case bearing as it often times needs replacing. It was pitted while the left was still fine. He said that was common.

Jamie
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Sat, Aug 20, 2016 10:06 PM
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