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D2 5U Radiator

D2 5U Radiator

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Outbackrider
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Here's a picture of the top of my radiator you can see the leaking hole.
Any suggestion on how to repair? Drain, grind out rust, brighten, flux and solder?

Thanks


[attachment=37397]Radiator.JPG[/attachment]
Attachment
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Fri, Aug 12, 2016 8:29 AM
drujinin
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You got equipment to braze it? If not, I'd try soldering it. It'll take a pretty good torch to heat the casting though.
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Fri, Aug 12, 2016 9:03 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to drujinin:
You got equipment to braze it? If not, I'd try soldering it. It'll take a pretty good torch to heat the casting though.
Typical result of driving in a too long bolt. Solution, clean and tap the hole, screw in set screw with loctite PST
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Fri, Aug 12, 2016 10:51 AM
Outbackrider
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Reply to STEPHEN:
Typical result of driving in a too long bolt. Solution, clean and tap the hole, screw in set screw with loctite PST
I have a oxy/ace braze tip, would have to get braze material.
It has a generator, aren't those holes there for headlights?
Might be best to go the tap route to keep the lighting option open.
Thx.
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Fri, Aug 12, 2016 3:10 PM
catsilver
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Reply to Outbackrider:
I have a oxy/ace braze tip, would have to get braze material.
It has a generator, aren't those holes there for headlights?
Might be best to go the tap route to keep the lighting option open.
Thx.
Those holes are threaded 3/8" to carry the headlamp brackets, plug them with short bolts and sealant.
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Fri, Aug 12, 2016 3:18 PM
neil
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Reply to catsilver:
Those holes are threaded 3/8" to carry the headlamp brackets, plug them with short bolts and sealant.
He's writing about the small hole just above the bottom left threaded hole. You can see it right at the top of the rust stain.
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Fri, Aug 12, 2016 5:57 PM
catsilver
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Reply to neil:
He's writing about the small hole just above the bottom left threaded hole. You can see it right at the top of the rust stain.
You're right Neil, most methods mentioned would work, I wonder what the rest of the cooling system is like inside?
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Fri, Aug 12, 2016 7:41 PM
Outbackrider
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Reply to catsilver:
You're right Neil, most methods mentioned would work, I wonder what the rest of the cooling system is like inside?
I have to admit...the cooling system is quite ugly at this point.

I'm planning on extensively flushing the system, and filling with new, clean coolant.
Any tips on best way to flush, I'd like to push the crud out from the bottom and not push
it into the radiator.

My plan is to pull the pony off after I drain and flush, before refilling. The pony will be one of my winter
projects. I believe I saw where I can use some flat plate steel to cover over where the
pony sits for the winter?

A little background:

I came across this D2 from a friend of a friend. It was in an overgrown field, with a track
thrown off the front idler. I couldn't pass it up for the price...very very low...but there was quite
a bit of sweat equity invested to get the track on and to get it home.

Thanks to some great advice from this forum, I got it home and saved it from the
scrapper.

This is my first Cat, I have 4 oliver HG/OC3 crawlers
in different stages of repair/restoration and a JD420 that needs some attention
I admit it....I'm hooked on crawlers.

I am blown away at how industrial this D2 is compared to the Ag crawlers that
I have. Those D4's - D8's are some really serious machines...

Sorry I'm getting long winded.
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Fri, Aug 12, 2016 9:19 PM
drujinin
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Reply to Outbackrider:
I have to admit...the cooling system is quite ugly at this point.

I'm planning on extensively flushing the system, and filling with new, clean coolant.
Any tips on best way to flush, I'd like to push the crud out from the bottom and not push
it into the radiator.

My plan is to pull the pony off after I drain and flush, before refilling. The pony will be one of my winter
projects. I believe I saw where I can use some flat plate steel to cover over where the
pony sits for the winter?

A little background:

I came across this D2 from a friend of a friend. It was in an overgrown field, with a track
thrown off the front idler. I couldn't pass it up for the price...very very low...but there was quite
a bit of sweat equity invested to get the track on and to get it home.

Thanks to some great advice from this forum, I got it home and saved it from the
scrapper.

This is my first Cat, I have 4 oliver HG/OC3 crawlers
in different stages of repair/restoration and a JD420 that needs some attention
I admit it....I'm hooked on crawlers.

I am blown away at how industrial this D2 is compared to the Ag crawlers that
I have. Those D4's - D8's are some really serious machines...

Sorry I'm getting long winded.
Yes, you can plate it where it sat. There is also a port that goes into the cylinder head/block that needs closing also. Last one I suggested for that one was a plate, gasket and toggle bolt to hold it. The guy said he would try that. There is a low spot near the clutch housing where rust tends to plug up the flow from the main to the pony.(Its clear as mud to me right now but you'll understand when you pull the pony). Neil has been in discussions on threads for cleaning. Use the search function to find threads he has responded in on cooling systems.
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Sat, Aug 13, 2016 6:01 AM
edb
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Reply to drujinin:
Yes, you can plate it where it sat. There is also a port that goes into the cylinder head/block that needs closing also. Last one I suggested for that one was a plate, gasket and toggle bolt to hold it. The guy said he would try that. There is a low spot near the clutch housing where rust tends to plug up the flow from the main to the pony.(Its clear as mud to me right now but you'll understand when you pull the pony). Neil has been in discussions on threads for cleaning. Use the search function to find threads he has responded in on cooling systems.
Hi Team,
Cat put out an article I think in a Service Mag one time about plugging porous castings. That looks like a good candidate for a drill and tap for suitable sized NPT plug. Cut/grind off the top of the plug after fitting and grind off smooth, paint it and she should be good for years--no welding and risk of possible cracking to ruin an otherwise sound tank.
My two cents worth for today.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Aug 13, 2016 7:44 AM
drujinin
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
Cat put out an article I think in a Service Mag one time about plugging porous castings. That looks like a good candidate for a drill and tap for suitable sized NPT plug. Cut/grind off the top of the plug after fitting and grind off smooth, paint it and she should be good for years--no welding and risk of possible cracking to ruin an otherwise sound tank.
My two cents worth for today.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Eddie B your right!
Sometimes we get so hung up on one solution that we miss a simple obvious solution!
Thanks!
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Sat, Aug 13, 2016 6:08 PM
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