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d2 5u main clutch/transmission

d2 5u main clutch/transmission

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alganon
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Gentlemen ,

My d2 seems to have a problem between the engine and the tracks . I pull start it and work it for ~30 min then when I engage the clutch there seems to be an extra load on the engine . Engine temp. is normal . It's like something is seizing up with a little use . I can push it around with my skid steer in neutral not running so the tracks and whatever else is turning with them inside seem to be ok or at least not seized . The clutch lever seems to have enough play and snaps over centre ok . I took off the inspection cover under the pup flywheel to look at the clutch . The 3 legged thingy with the button that pulls out turns freely and the button doesn't engage in any of the indexing holes . The transmission oil is full .

I know this is a broad question but I was hoping one of you had a "That happened to me once and it was ...."

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated as always ,

Barry
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Thu, Sep 27, 2012 10:38 PM
n7gxz
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Barry,

The button should engauge into one of the index holes, that is what keeps the clutch from getting too tight or too loose.

Kevin
D2 5U13247 Direct electric start, #44hyd, 2S blade, Hyster D2N
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Fri, Sep 28, 2012 6:14 AM
alganon
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Reply to n7gxz:
Barry,

The button should engauge into one of the index holes, that is what keeps the clutch from getting too tight or too loose.

Kevin
[quote="n7gxz"]Barry,

The button should engauge into one of the index holes, that is what keeps the clutch from getting too tight or too loose.

Kevin[/quote]

Kevin ,

Thanks you . I thought that was the case . I'll have to investigate why it doesn't engage . Do you know if you can remove the button assembly for inspection ? If the clutch is too loose or too tight does it change the action of the clutch lever ? It seems to snap over centre to engage and has lots of play when not engaged . Is that a function of the linkage and not the clutch ?

Barry
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Fri, Sep 28, 2012 11:25 AM
ol Grump
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Reply to alganon:
[quote="n7gxz"]Barry,

The button should engauge into one of the index holes, that is what keeps the clutch from getting too tight or too loose.

Kevin[/quote]

Kevin ,

Thanks you . I thought that was the case . I'll have to investigate why it doesn't engage . Do you know if you can remove the button assembly for inspection ? If the clutch is too loose or too tight does it change the action of the clutch lever ? It seems to snap over centre to engage and has lots of play when not engaged . Is that a function of the linkage and not the clutch ?

Barry
If your D2U model is new enough to have the two piece tranny cover (I don't have a parts book so I can't tell you what the serial number break is), I'd pull the cover over the clutch and take a good close look at what's going on in there. You really can't see a lot through just the inspection cover. The nice thing is that if yours has the two piece cover, you can pull the clutch w/o splitting the critter, if needed.

As far as the slack in the clutch lever, any wear in anything (bushings, holes, pins) will add to that. If the spider that adjusts the clutch spins freely and the pin doesn't lock in any of the holes, there's definitely something wonky in there.
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Fri, Sep 28, 2012 8:36 PM
alganon
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Reply to ol Grump:
If your D2U model is new enough to have the two piece tranny cover (I don't have a parts book so I can't tell you what the serial number break is), I'd pull the cover over the clutch and take a good close look at what's going on in there. You really can't see a lot through just the inspection cover. The nice thing is that if yours has the two piece cover, you can pull the clutch w/o splitting the critter, if needed.

As far as the slack in the clutch lever, any wear in anything (bushings, holes, pins) will add to that. If the spider that adjusts the clutch spins freely and the pin doesn't lock in any of the holes, there's definitely something wonky in there.
[quote="ol Grump"]If your D2U model is new enough to have the two piece tranny cover (I don't have a parts book so I can't tell you what the serial number break is), I'd pull the cover over the clutch and take a good close look at what's going on in there. You really can't see a lot through just the inspection cover. The nice thing is that if yours has the two piece cover, you can pull the clutch w/o splitting the critter, if needed.

As far as the slack in the clutch lever, any wear in anything (bushings, holes, pins) will add to that. If the spider that adjusts the clutch spins freely and the pin doesn't lock in any of the holes, there's definitely something wonky in there.[/quote]

Here are some pics. I took . Thanks OG , Barry

IMG_1668.JPG
IMG_1673.JPG
IMG_1677.JPG
IMG_1678.JPG
IMG_1679.JPG
IMG_1681.JPG
IMG_1682.JPG
IMG_1683.JPG
IMG_1684.JPG
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Fri, Sep 28, 2012 9:49 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to alganon:
[quote="ol Grump"]If your D2U model is new enough to have the two piece tranny cover (I don't have a parts book so I can't tell you what the serial number break is), I'd pull the cover over the clutch and take a good close look at what's going on in there. You really can't see a lot through just the inspection cover. The nice thing is that if yours has the two piece cover, you can pull the clutch w/o splitting the critter, if needed.

As far as the slack in the clutch lever, any wear in anything (bushings, holes, pins) will add to that. If the spider that adjusts the clutch spins freely and the pin doesn't lock in any of the holes, there's definitely something wonky in there.[/quote]

Here are some pics. I took . Thanks OG , Barry

IMG_1668.JPG
IMG_1673.JPG
IMG_1677.JPG
IMG_1678.JPG
IMG_1679.JPG
IMG_1681.JPG
IMG_1682.JPG
IMG_1683.JPG
IMG_1684.JPG
I believe the elongated frame and 2 piece covers started with D2-5U 13237 and 4U 6373
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Sat, Sep 29, 2012 1:43 AM
rjh-md
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Reply to dpendzic:
I believe the elongated frame and 2 piece covers started with D2-5U 13237 and 4U 6373
Clould be that the pilot bearing is wiped out in front of the clutch letting clutch drop ,and blind between the flywhee l and transmission input shaft
That grease fitting that lubes the pilot bearing located on the flywheel usually never sees a grease gun
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Sat, Sep 29, 2012 2:20 AM
neil
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Reply to rjh-md:
Clould be that the pilot bearing is wiped out in front of the clutch letting clutch drop ,and blind between the flywhee l and transmission input shaft
That grease fitting that lubes the pilot bearing located on the flywheel usually never sees a grease gun
I saw that one RJH because I have my flywheel out for a new ring gear. I bought 4 different angled grease nipples so that I can install the one that makes it the easiest to grease the pilot bearing so there's no excuse. Plus I fitted a new bearing so it should be good to go.
Cheers,
Neil.
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Sat, Sep 29, 2012 6:21 AM
alganon
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Reply to neil:
I saw that one RJH because I have my flywheel out for a new ring gear. I bought 4 different angled grease nipples so that I can install the one that makes it the easiest to grease the pilot bearing so there's no excuse. Plus I fitted a new bearing so it should be good to go.
Cheers,
Neil.
[attachment=14885]IMG_1677.jpg[/attachment][attachment=14886]IMG_1678.jpg[/attachment][attachment=14887]IMG_1679.jpg[/attachment][attachment=14888]IMG_1681.jpg[/attachment][attachment=14889]IMG_1682.jpg[/attachment][attachment=14890]IMG_1683.jpg[/attachment][attachment=14891]IMG_1684.jpg[/attachment]

Lets try this again .

Barry
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Sat, Sep 29, 2012 7:17 AM
edb
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Reply to neil:
I saw that one RJH because I have my flywheel out for a new ring gear. I bought 4 different angled grease nipples so that I can install the one that makes it the easiest to grease the pilot bearing so there's no excuse. Plus I fitted a new bearing so it should be good to go.
Cheers,
Neil.
Hi Team,
it is not un-known for the button to have the tip of the locking pin broken from its end. This occurs on the pony clutch also.
It could be caused by excessive wear to the clutch rear plate splines. This overloads the pin and failure ensues.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Sep 29, 2012 7:18 AM
ol Grump
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
it is not un-known for the button to have the tip of the locking pin broken from its end. This occurs on the pony clutch also.
It could be caused by excessive wear to the clutch rear plate splines. This overloads the pin and failure ensues.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Barry,

I hate to say it but from the pics, you'll have to split the critter to do much work in the clutch area. I didn't see the split coupling that the newer ones have that have the two piece cover. Unless you absolutely have to use it for snow removal this winter, this could be your winter project.
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Sat, Sep 29, 2012 8:36 PM
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