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D2 5U Fuel Transfer Pump

D2 5U Fuel Transfer Pump

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zootownjeepguy
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I spent a few hours staring at the D2 Cash Disposal Unit today, I even installed the Oil Cooler lines that I cleaned and painted 6 months ago ("Progress" :thumb๐Ÿ˜Š. Yesterday I took the fuel transfer pump to work with me and disassembled it. Everything looked good inside but I'm wondering what the acceptable clearances are for the pump gears. The gear end clearance is .003", there is some play between the gears that I have not measured yet (.005-ish) and the bearing feels fairly tight. The cover plate was cupped about .0015" so I dusted it flat on the surface grinder. What is the spec for gear backlash for the 5F6606 pump? The gear teeth look smooth with no visible wear, scratches or pitting.

This is the pump from the 5U1335. I pulled the pump off the 4U1200 parts tractor last summer and gave it a quick grind job but there is still no measurable fuel pressure (on a brand-new gauge). The plan is to rebuild this pump with new seals and put it back on. Just wondering if I should replace the gears too?

Thanks,
Rich
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
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Sun, Jun 19, 2011 7:25 AM
Old Magnet
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The gear mesh back lash doesn't really matter so long as they mate and seal. Side/end clearance can be anywhere from close to zero to a couple of thou. total. When your at about 0.004 to 0.005 between the gear teeth tips and the wall of the housing and/or side clearance it's considered worn out.
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Sun, Jun 19, 2011 10:08 AM
zootownjeepguy
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The gear mesh back lash doesn't really matter so long as they mate and seal. Side/end clearance can be anywhere from close to zero to a couple of thou. total. When your at about 0.004 to 0.005 between the gear teeth tips and the wall of the housing and/or side clearance it's considered worn out.
Thanks O.M.
I figured I could count on you (almost sent you a pm). I'll check the gear tooth clearance Monday at work, ...during lunch break of course, never on company time (:flypig๐Ÿ˜Š and maybe dust a thou or two off the housing.
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
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Sun, Jun 19, 2011 10:22 AM
zootownjeepguy
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Reply to zootownjeepguy:
Thanks O.M.
I figured I could count on you (almost sent you a pm). I'll check the gear tooth clearance Monday at work, ...during lunch break of course, never on company time (:flypig๐Ÿ˜Š and maybe dust a thou or two off the housing.
Still have all those transfer pump parts sitting on my bench at work (I do wipe the dust off them occasionally). My big concern now is about the pump Shaft. The shaft looks and mic's good at the bearing surfaces but is worn about .0015" to .0022" where the lead Seals ride. Should I replace the shaft or just stick it back together and use it?

I have not checked about price or availability on a new shaft yet. I could make a nice new shaft in a couple hours, but that requires ambition which I don't have an overabundance of at the moment.๐Ÿ˜†
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Aug 20, 2011 6:57 AM
invisabledog
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Reply to zootownjeepguy:
Still have all those transfer pump parts sitting on my bench at work (I do wipe the dust off them occasionally). My big concern now is about the pump Shaft. The shaft looks and mic's good at the bearing surfaces but is worn about .0015" to .0022" where the lead Seals ride. Should I replace the shaft or just stick it back together and use it?

I have not checked about price or availability on a new shaft yet. I could make a nice new shaft in a couple hours, but that requires ambition which I don't have an overabundance of at the moment.๐Ÿ˜†
[quote="zootownjeepguy"]Still have all those transfer pump parts sitting on my bench at work (I do wipe the dust off them occasionally). My big concern now is about the pump Shaft. The shaft looks and mic's good at the bearing surfaces but is worn about .0015" to .0022" where the lead Seals ride. Should I replace the shaft or just stick it back together and use it?

I have not checked about price or availability on a new shaft yet. I could make a nice new shaft in a couple hours, but that requires ambition which I don't have an overabundance of at the moment.๐Ÿ˜†[/quote]

I located a new shaft for mine on the grader. $110 nos.
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Sat, Aug 20, 2011 7:07 AM
ag-mike
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Reply to invisabledog:
[quote="zootownjeepguy"]Still have all those transfer pump parts sitting on my bench at work (I do wipe the dust off them occasionally). My big concern now is about the pump Shaft. The shaft looks and mic's good at the bearing surfaces but is worn about .0015" to .0022" where the lead Seals ride. Should I replace the shaft or just stick it back together and use it?

I have not checked about price or availability on a new shaft yet. I could make a nice new shaft in a couple hours, but that requires ambition which I don't have an overabundance of at the moment.๐Ÿ˜†[/quote]

I located a new shaft for mine on the grader. $110 nos.
i had mine ground and chromed to specs.
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Sat, Aug 20, 2011 9:32 AM
edb
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Reply to ag-mike:
i had mine ground and chromed to specs.
Hi Rich,
the main things with these pumps is that the end clearance is down to minimum, about 0.0005"-0.001" and that you make up the tooling to tamp the seals good and tight on the shaft or else they leak out the drain tubes or worse still back into the engine oil if the tubes are blocked.
The good book says 0.001"-0.0022" clearance with a max of 0.0035".
Shaft clearance in bearings is spec= 0.0012"-0.0019", max 0.003"
No spec is given for gear teeth end tips to housing but 0.004"-5" would be max. I think, as OM said above.
Polish the end cover and body surface and use permatex No 3 to seal them.

I guess you have checked the relief-by-pass valve seat and face, also that the spring is is good condition, a bit of a stretch usually ups the pressure a bit.
Spring spec is free length= 1.64" and 2.16-2.54 lbs force at 1.031" compressed length.
Fuel pressure should be around 25-30 psi at full load and 3 psi at cranking speed.

Scans below are for the tooling to tamp the seal packings and onr to aid in sliding the square shoulder of the shaft thru the packing.

Grab these scans while they are up.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
Attachment
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Sat, Aug 20, 2011 11:14 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to edb:
Hi Rich,
the main things with these pumps is that the end clearance is down to minimum, about 0.0005"-0.001" and that you make up the tooling to tamp the seals good and tight on the shaft or else they leak out the drain tubes or worse still back into the engine oil if the tubes are blocked.
The good book says 0.001"-0.0022" clearance with a max of 0.0035".
Shaft clearance in bearings is spec= 0.0012"-0.0019", max 0.003"
No spec is given for gear teeth end tips to housing but 0.004"-5" would be max. I think, as OM said above.
Polish the end cover and body surface and use permatex No 3 to seal them.

I guess you have checked the relief-by-pass valve seat and face, also that the spring is is good condition, a bit of a stretch usually ups the pressure a bit.
Spring spec is free length= 1.64" and 2.16-2.54 lbs force at 1.031" compressed length.
Fuel pressure should be around 25-30 psi at full load and 3 psi at cranking speed.

Scans below are for the tooling to tamp the seal packings and onr to aid in sliding the square shoulder of the shaft thru the packing.

Grab these scans while they are up.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Attachment
Attachment
How long would it take a Mechanic at William Adams to fit the 2 new seals into a dismantled D4 transfer pump?
thanks
Mike
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Fri, Feb 15, 2013 11:29 AM
edb
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
How long would it take a Mechanic at William Adams to fit the 2 new seals into a dismantled D4 transfer pump?
thanks
Mike
Hi Mike,
alas, you would likely be charged the 1 hour minimum charge for that.
In reality it would take 15 mins. being extravagant in time allowance.
I used to do things like that as good will.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Feb 16, 2013 7:16 AM
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