D2 5U Dozer Blade identification

Thanks so much for your reply Chuck! It's also got a small winch, but I have no idea what brand it is, did CAT make winches for D2's?
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Cat didn't make winches for D2s but Hyster did and the two usual models are conveniently named D2 (older) and D2N (newer). I have a D2 winch for my D2 tractor : ) I don't think the one on that tractor is a Hyster but would need that framework pulled off so we can find a tag on the unit. Take the clutch cover off and check how much water is in the clutch compartment. There are drain plugs in the compartment, and the two steering clutch compartments but they're often left out to let them drain. That toolbar is a good thing to have, esp. in NZ where there's not a lot of examples of anything, let alone toolbars. What you do is unpin the blade from the sidearms, swing the arms to the back, then fit a toolbar and you can fit cultivator tips, planters, all kinds of ag attachments - basically turning it into a farm tractor with a few simple steps. You can see the swivels where the hydraulic rams fit so you can swing the arms around without having to disconnect any of the hydraulic components.
Buy it and we'll help you get it going. Ask him where the air cleaner is too. It sits on the dashboard in front of the operator's seat, and the instrument "dash" (what Cat calls it) top right of the dashboard which would contain the oil pressure and temperature gauges at a minimum, and might also have an ammeter if that tractor has an electrical system. Sometimes the ammeter is on the battery box. Blade looks in good shape in terms of dents and straightness but there'll be a ton of rust behind the cutting edges which you'd probably want to deal with at some point. You also have track frame covers which look in really good condition - those are often missing / wrecked so that's also a good score. The grip for the main clutch lever is still available new from Cat but first find the clutch lever - I don't see it in the photos so hopefully it's there somewhere. It connects via some linkage to a vertical shaft in front of your left foot on the top of the clutch compartment. There's also a grip for the hydraulic control lever. Not sure I see a can over the main exhaust which is a bit of a worry. If the engines are seized, tell the guy scrap price only. Also measure from the running surface of the rail (chain) up to the underside of the grouser/track plate and we can tell you how worn they are. I have a serial # listing from Goughs so I might be able to find the original owner of that tractor for history purposes. Where are you located? My family is in Masterton and my father had a J-series (earlier series of D2) and a U-series. I live in the States now but also have a 5U, and in Masterton we have my cousin's Twenty-Two, so if you want to talk yellow iron, let me know

Oh, I've also got a cousin with a very tidy 22!
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Good deal Mark. You're right - starting from a running machine will get you miles ahead. Well worth the $ unless you're like me and like to take old rusty junk apart : ) Jump on that one that you described in Gore and promise never to paint it. It's earned its patina and that sort of thing is very sought after. I'd only learned that after painting some parts on my 3J and now I'm going to have to paint the whole thing so it will lose the cool factor.
Hopefully the old boy with the units won't send them to China to be turned into iPhones. Even though they're stuck, you can still pour a gallon of diesel/oil down the exhaust and cover it back up. It might make it a bit easier to pull apart later on.
Nice Twenty-Two and I like that it has the original spark plug cover, but like my cousin's, has lost the track tin. I'm thinking of getting new ones made - just need the drawings and have someone in NZ bend and trim them. I'm bringing over a new clutch plate, thrust bearing, and pilot bearing to get the clutch squared away, and a new knob for the gearshift. Would like to obtain the heat box controls as well, not to use them, but so the machine is complete again. Fuel tank needs a new bottom. I found a 540 PTO for it from another local unit that had a logging winch on it.
Anyhoo, keep us up to date as we all like adventures. Hudson Biggs runs the NZ chapter of ACMOC if you're interested in talking with like-minded folks. He's in Dunedin.

Good deal Mark. You're right - starting from a running machine will get you miles ahead. Well worth the $ unless you're like me and like to take old rusty junk apart : ) Jump on that one that you described in Gore and promise never to paint it. It's earned its patina and that sort of thing is very sought after. I'd only learned that after painting some parts on my 3J and now I'm going to have to paint the whole thing so it will lose the cool factor.
Hopefully the old boy with the units won't send them to China to be turned into iPhones. Even though they're stuck, you can still pour a gallon of diesel/oil down the exhaust and cover it back up. It might make it a bit easier to pull apart later on.
Nice Twenty-Two and I like that it has the original spark plug cover, but like my cousin's, has lost the track tin. I'm thinking of getting new ones made - just need the drawings and have someone in NZ bend and trim them. I'm bringing over a new clutch plate, thrust bearing, and pilot bearing to get the clutch squared away, and a new knob for the gearshift. Would like to obtain the heat box controls as well, not to use them, but so the machine is complete again. Fuel tank needs a new bottom. I found a 540 PTO for it from another local unit that had a logging winch on it.
Anyhoo, keep us up to date as we all like adventures. Hudson Biggs runs the NZ chapter of ACMOC if you're interested in talking with like-minded folks. He's in Dunedin.

Thanks Neil, the serial numbers of the 4 5U's in the pic above, from left to right are:
5U5576
5U15604
5U18507
5U13058