D2 5U Direct Start Conversion

I am thinking about removing the pony motor and going to a direct electric start. The serial number is D2 5U7971 - 1951. What problems will I encounter?
Not sure if there are holes already drilled for it. Am sure a 24 volt system
would be better than a 12 volt system. Any ideas on cost?
Suggestions and advice are appreciated.
Thanks,
D2Redsetter

Hi D2Redsetter. I recently fitted a 24 volt starter to a D2 4U and it works like a charm. Spin the motor for about 1 second before opening the injector pump and it starts straight away. I left my pony motor in place as it's easy to start when it's all warmed up if I happen to stall the diesel motor. It's that good that I'm fitting the same to another 4U I have. Mine were earlier model 4U's and I had to cut out a hole for the starter motor and tap out three bolt holes. There's a bloke in North Queensland AUS. that makes them up to fit all the Cat models with pony motors. He provides a template on where to drill the holes etc. I'm sure there would be something similar available in the US. The complete unit with cables, starter switches etc cost $1,000 but it's well worth it if you can afford to do it. With your model with the pre drilled holes I think you have to widen the starter hole about 1/4 inch.

12 volt system will be made from the most common components all around. 24 volt everything will be more expensive except battery cables. When you need to boost the battery, charge the batteries etc, the advantage goes to the 12 again unless you have a 24 volt charger or other vehicle you can use. 12 volt negative ground has become the standard automotive system.

We have an (originally) 24 volt JD 4020 which was always the best cranking thing on the place. The starter went bad and I was able to get a NOS 12 volt replacement for a good price at the local dealership, so with some misgivings, I converted the tractor. Still is the best cranking tractor on the place. In other words, the difference was the tractor, not the system voltage. Now if I need to use booster cables or a battery charger on it, it's simple. Alternators are an off the shelf item at any autoparts, etc. Also, our JD dealer stocks a 12 volt starter if I ever need one.

Look at the clutch housing below the pony pinion/clutch unit and see if you have a 3 bolt cover there or just a flat boss cast into the housing. If the hole is there, it will be the right size, you will just need to get a starter with the correct direction of rotation and helical cut gear starter drive. Then install the nose to index the solenoid so it doesn't interfere with shields, pony pinion etc.

OM has a page with lots of information on conversion.
http://img400.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=header4oq.jpg

Lots of discussion on the sticky thread at the top of this board
http://www.acmocbb.org/ACMOC_BB/showthread.php?t=844&page=5

I got a hole saw from the local hardware store with the arbor was about $30 and I got a starter off of ebay, a nose cone off of ebay, and helical gear off of ebay for around $250. So there is no reason why you couldn't do it all including battery for under $500.

It takes a while to cut through the bellhousing if you have to. So lots of oil and drill and oil and drill. But the more oil you use the longer the hole saw will last. Mine still looks like new just paint missing.