D2 5U Can't keep pony engaged to start diesel

once you engage it you can hold it in gear by hand to get the diesel started.

also you can adjust the pinion latches so it won't disengage prematurely

pretty easy to pull start if the blade is up----just use a higher gear on the tranny

I can engage it but when I move the clutch lever it wants to disengage , the lever jumps , it's very hard to keep it engaged.

Barry

This machine was running and in use a week ago . The undercarrage is in good shape . The sprockets are very good and the pins are hardly worn and haven't been turned. It all looks to be in great shape . Tilt and angle blade , straight and no welds and not siezed up.
Whats involved in adjusting the pinion thingys ? It feels like there's something wrong or very worn the way the levers jump and make noise. Is there oil in the clutch/pinion area ? I got a noise like a bushing chatering at one point.
Thanks ,
Barry

might need to post the serial number so some detailed info can be given

Sounds as if your pinion assembly had better come out before you do more damage to the flywheel ring gear or the pinion itself. Do not make a habit of holding the pinion in engagement with the lever. Once you damage the engagement rod that pushes the pinion into the flywheel ring gear, AFAIK you must split the tractor to repair it. :jaw: If you want to look at it before hand, you can take off the cover on the pinion clutch housing if it has one or the cover with the handle off the side of the older types and look in there as well as the small 2 bolt cover on the flywheel housinng near the left brake pedal which allows access to adjust the pinion latches, but not much else. You may also get a look at the flywheel by looking in through the clutch adjustment cover. Not that you can do much through that hole, but you should be able to see the ring gear and the pinion if you get your eye in the right spot.

Yes, the pinion clutch compartment is "wet". The oil serves to lubricate the clutch and brake disks, the pinion bearings and also the gear train all the way up to the pony motor crankshaft (including the cam drive gears !!!), so it's pretty important to keep it checked.

To take it out, the key points are

1 drain the diesel cooling system

2 drain the pony motor oil

3 Unbolt and lift the pony motor (manuals say you can just lift it enough to allow the pinion to clear the idler gear, but you run the risk of damaging the base gasket and having a leak after you put it back down) Some of the nuts on the studs that hold the pony down are in places where it's hard to even find them, much less remove them, so check that you get them all (parts book calls out 6 3/8 nuts and 2 3/8 cap screws, but I thought there was another nut to make 9 total fasteners??)

4 Latch the pinion in to shorten the assembly

5 Remove the back cover off the governor to get some additional clearance, nothing will fly out or fall off if you just remove that part.

6 unbolt the pinion assembly and ease it out of the clutch housing. Don't get too vigorous while persuading it. There's a large o-ring in there that's frequently stuck, but you can break the flange tabs off the pinion if you go at it too hard.


You have the option to go to direct electric start if the convenience appeals to you (or the expense of repairs to the pony and pinion are too high).