I'm with Pete. To good of a challenge to pass up. Worst case a couple of good chain come-alongs, a couple of plank under the tracks if they don't roll or one under the rollers if the track is all the way off. If the tracks are stuck it will roll quite easy with plank tied to the tracks and rollers under the plank. You may need a second plank under the rollers if on less than real hard ground. Yes, we need pictures.
Not sure but if it is a 1956 it may have the oil clutch. That alone is worth the rescue.
Best to take at least one other puller of some type for backup/assistance. Or if that one works really well you can just chain off the tractor so it cannot roll or slide back while you re-hook the main puller as it runs out of travel. Seems like my recoveries have turned into endurance events with 3 guys each working a come-a-long so someone is always re-hooking theirs while everyone takes a breather!
Usually pulling one up ramps etc works best from the rear drawbar, but in case you cannot position your trailer that way you should also plan on winching the dozer up and chaining it. Would make it easier to move not having the dozer dragging anyway. The typical D2 dozer can be chained up securely by a good chain looped around one hydraulic cylinder or the other
I am not so sanguine as Pete about the water not being in the main engine. That pony exhaust tube through the diesel intake has gaskets on each end and has been known to leak fairly often. However if I remember right the runners into each diesel cylinder run upwards from the connector section where the pony exhaust tube goes through, so there is a chance that there will have been something leaking enough to drain the rainwater away faster than it accumulated. The low oil level sounds like a positive, but until you drain a sample of whatever is in the bottom of the pan, you won't know if it was run out of oil and then filled back to 3/4 with rain water over the years or if it was a gallon low when it was shut down and is still mostly water free.
Do you have a tool to remove the hex socket drain plugs? I think I have probably made half a dozen over the years, usually by welding a nut on the end of a 3/4" bolt to make a "dog bone" about 3" long. This allows you to use a socket set and extensions as needed to reach up through belly pan openings to reach the plugs. Or you can weld a handle on a short dog bone to make a substitute for the CAT wrench that came with the tractor. On a well kept machine, you may find this CAT wrench in a toolbox along with track tensioner wrench etc.
Good luck!
I think as a few people have said your come-along and a few snatch blocks some chains planks some blocks of wood and a jack or two and you will have it loaded in a few hours
Paul
Loosen the tracks before you try to put them back on. If the tracks are worn you might be able to get them back on without loosening the adjuster. My experience with my D2 (lost the track more than once) is that it is a lot easier to put the tracks on with the adjuster pulled all the way in. Be sure to retighten the tracks before you try to load it. Good luck with a great find.
Chuck C
When I hauled mine up onto a trailer with frozen brakes, I jacked the machine up to slide channel iron under the tracks. I then took a 5 ton cable come-a-long and two snatch blocks and rigged for max power. I had slathered grease on the channel iron and started pulling. All afternoon I pulled that come-a-long re-hooking as the machine got closer and closer to being on the trailer. After hauling 300 miles the gentle rocking motion broke the brakes free!
Rolled right off at home!
2 steering clutch rebuilds later it was moving under its own power!
My only regret was I wish I had thought of OIH's idea of using rollers!
Like ChuckC says move the Idler back to get the track on. It'll make life easier!
Any possibility of a Farm Tractor to rent or borrow nearby to pull it up on the trailer for you?
One other method I've seen suggested is to pick up a couple of old axles and put them underneath the tracks. Rolls easy!