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D2 5U - 1956 Thrown Track

D2 5U - 1956 Thrown Track

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Outbackrider
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I came across a D2 model 5U serial number puts it at 1956.
I believe I can get it for close to "take it if you want it".

I only had a few minutes to look it over.
I checked the radiator, it was full, but it appeared to be a lot of rusty water, no sign of antifreeze.
I checked the oil in the main engine, surprisingly it looked great.
The left front track is off. It has been sitting for at least 10 years.


The main exhaust stack is covered...the pony motor stack was left open...which is not good...
I turned the main crank by hand, I got it to turn about 1/16 of an inch each way, but that was about it,
though I thought it was going to be completely stuck.

I did not pull on the main or steering clutches.

Cosmetically, it looks quite good. The hour meter, which I don't believe shows ~ 700 hours.

I don't have another machine in the area to move it, what would you suggest.
I do have a 3 ton heavy duty come-along and I can get a trailer in the area.
I've thought about just leaving it...but I can't stand to see these old little beauties rust back into the earth.

Sorry, no pictures yet, maybe I can get there again sometime this week.

Advice, especially, on how to get the track back on and how to get it loaded.

Thanks
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Mon, Jul 11, 2016 10:24 PM
neil
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I can see two possibilities out of the many:
- try to get the track back on and then see if it will roll. If it does, winch it up on to a rollback
- pick it up with a decent size crane truck or forklift and take it home. Crane/forklift needs to be able to handle 5 tons

What's your location? There might be a member in the area to come take a look with you. Grab a couple of photos so we can see what you've got. Post the serial # too - late model units typically have the "good" options like oil clutch etc.
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Mon, Jul 11, 2016 11:11 PM
old-iron-habit
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I'm with Pete. To good of a challenge to pass up. Worst case a couple of good chain come-alongs, a couple of plank under the tracks if they don't roll or one under the rollers if the track is all the way off. If the tracks are stuck it will roll quite easy with plank tied to the tracks and rollers under the plank. You may need a second plank under the rollers if on less than real hard ground. Yes, we need pictures.

Not sure but if it is a 1956 it may have the oil clutch. That alone is worth the rescue.
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Tue, Jul 12, 2016 12:46 AM
Outbackrider
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Reply to old-iron-habit:
I'm with Pete. To good of a challenge to pass up. Worst case a couple of good chain come-alongs, a couple of plank under the tracks if they don't roll or one under the rollers if the track is all the way off. If the tracks are stuck it will roll quite easy with plank tied to the tracks and rollers under the plank. You may need a second plank under the rollers if on less than real hard ground. Yes, we need pictures.

Not sure but if it is a 1956 it may have the oil clutch. That alone is worth the rescue.
Thanks for the encouragement and input. Here's some more info. that I can recall..

The thrown track is still on the rear sprocket, and lower roller. It is off the front idler pointing in towards the engine.
I should have looked, but don't recall what shape the idler is in. I believe the main clutch is the dry type, it had the small
oiler cup, don't remember seeing a hex cap in the inspection plate.

I've not worked on one, I was incorrectly thinking that the pony motor exhaust pipe was somehow open into the main intake manifold...which
makes no sense, so I am beginning to believe it really is worth the effort. I envisioned the intake manifold full of water. I don't believe
it is since I was able to get movement out of the front crank. So this is good news.

I was really surprised at the condition of the oil, no sign of water in it at all and it was about 3/4 full.

It has an outside blade on it, pony looks like it is electric start.

The rubber shifter cover looked like it was still intact. I could only get the shifter to move forward and back from the
neutral position. The shifter would not move to the front or back outside detents.

The steel plate idea is very good, as are the wooden skids, logs,...not sure what I could rig up.
I have a Wyeth-Scott 3 ton power puller, which states it will pull 12,000 static load.
Any further ideas, advice?

Thanks again.
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Tue, Jul 12, 2016 3:17 AM
neil
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Note that the main clutch must be disengaged to shift gears. There is an interlock on the front of the selector rods controlled by the clutch throwout lever. This is the case even if you have removed the transmission top cover and gear lever. If you can disengage the clutch, you might find that the transmission will shift.
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Tue, Jul 12, 2016 4:20 AM
ccjersey
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Best to take at least one other puller of some type for backup/assistance. Or if that one works really well you can just chain off the tractor so it cannot roll or slide back while you re-hook the main puller as it runs out of travel. Seems like my recoveries have turned into endurance events with 3 guys each working a come-a-long so someone is always re-hooking theirs while everyone takes a breather!

Usually pulling one up ramps etc works best from the rear drawbar, but in case you cannot position your trailer that way you should also plan on winching the dozer up and chaining it. Would make it easier to move not having the dozer dragging anyway. The typical D2 dozer can be chained up securely by a good chain looped around one hydraulic cylinder or the other

I am not so sanguine as Pete about the water not being in the main engine. That pony exhaust tube through the diesel intake has gaskets on each end and has been known to leak fairly often. However if I remember right the runners into each diesel cylinder run upwards from the connector section where the pony exhaust tube goes through, so there is a chance that there will have been something leaking enough to drain the rainwater away faster than it accumulated. The low oil level sounds like a positive, but until you drain a sample of whatever is in the bottom of the pan, you won't know if it was run out of oil and then filled back to 3/4 with rain water over the years or if it was a gallon low when it was shut down and is still mostly water free.

Do you have a tool to remove the hex socket drain plugs? I think I have probably made half a dozen over the years, usually by welding a nut on the end of a 3/4" bolt to make a "dog bone" about 3" long. This allows you to use a socket set and extensions as needed to reach up through belly pan openings to reach the plugs. Or you can weld a handle on a short dog bone to make a substitute for the CAT wrench that came with the tractor. On a well kept machine, you may find this CAT wrench in a toolbox along with track tensioner wrench etc.

Good luck!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Jul 12, 2016 5:02 AM
mrsmackpaul
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Reply to ccjersey:
Best to take at least one other puller of some type for backup/assistance. Or if that one works really well you can just chain off the tractor so it cannot roll or slide back while you re-hook the main puller as it runs out of travel. Seems like my recoveries have turned into endurance events with 3 guys each working a come-a-long so someone is always re-hooking theirs while everyone takes a breather!

Usually pulling one up ramps etc works best from the rear drawbar, but in case you cannot position your trailer that way you should also plan on winching the dozer up and chaining it. Would make it easier to move not having the dozer dragging anyway. The typical D2 dozer can be chained up securely by a good chain looped around one hydraulic cylinder or the other

I am not so sanguine as Pete about the water not being in the main engine. That pony exhaust tube through the diesel intake has gaskets on each end and has been known to leak fairly often. However if I remember right the runners into each diesel cylinder run upwards from the connector section where the pony exhaust tube goes through, so there is a chance that there will have been something leaking enough to drain the rainwater away faster than it accumulated. The low oil level sounds like a positive, but until you drain a sample of whatever is in the bottom of the pan, you won't know if it was run out of oil and then filled back to 3/4 with rain water over the years or if it was a gallon low when it was shut down and is still mostly water free.

Do you have a tool to remove the hex socket drain plugs? I think I have probably made half a dozen over the years, usually by welding a nut on the end of a 3/4" bolt to make a "dog bone" about 3" long. This allows you to use a socket set and extensions as needed to reach up through belly pan openings to reach the plugs. Or you can weld a handle on a short dog bone to make a substitute for the CAT wrench that came with the tractor. On a well kept machine, you may find this CAT wrench in a toolbox along with track tensioner wrench etc.

Good luck!
I think as a few people have said your come-along and a few snatch blocks some chains planks some blocks of wood and a jack or two and you will have it loaded in a few hours

Paul
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Tue, Jul 12, 2016 5:54 AM
ChuckC
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Reply to mrsmackpaul:
I think as a few people have said your come-along and a few snatch blocks some chains planks some blocks of wood and a jack or two and you will have it loaded in a few hours

Paul
Loosen the tracks before you try to put them back on. If the tracks are worn you might be able to get them back on without loosening the adjuster. My experience with my D2 (lost the track more than once) is that it is a lot easier to put the tracks on with the adjuster pulled all the way in. Be sure to retighten the tracks before you try to load it. Good luck with a great find.
Chuck C
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Tue, Jul 12, 2016 7:44 AM
drujinin
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Reply to ChuckC:
Loosen the tracks before you try to put them back on. If the tracks are worn you might be able to get them back on without loosening the adjuster. My experience with my D2 (lost the track more than once) is that it is a lot easier to put the tracks on with the adjuster pulled all the way in. Be sure to retighten the tracks before you try to load it. Good luck with a great find.
Chuck C
When I hauled mine up onto a trailer with frozen brakes, I jacked the machine up to slide channel iron under the tracks. I then took a 5 ton cable come-a-long and two snatch blocks and rigged for max power. I had slathered grease on the channel iron and started pulling. All afternoon I pulled that come-a-long re-hooking as the machine got closer and closer to being on the trailer. After hauling 300 miles the gentle rocking motion broke the brakes free!
Rolled right off at home!
2 steering clutch rebuilds later it was moving under its own power!
My only regret was I wish I had thought of OIH's idea of using rollers!
Like ChuckC says move the Idler back to get the track on. It'll make life easier!
Any possibility of a Farm Tractor to rent or borrow nearby to pull it up on the trailer for you?
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Tue, Jul 12, 2016 8:41 AM
neil
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Reply to drujinin:
When I hauled mine up onto a trailer with frozen brakes, I jacked the machine up to slide channel iron under the tracks. I then took a 5 ton cable come-a-long and two snatch blocks and rigged for max power. I had slathered grease on the channel iron and started pulling. All afternoon I pulled that come-a-long re-hooking as the machine got closer and closer to being on the trailer. After hauling 300 miles the gentle rocking motion broke the brakes free!
Rolled right off at home!
2 steering clutch rebuilds later it was moving under its own power!
My only regret was I wish I had thought of OIH's idea of using rollers!
Like ChuckC says move the Idler back to get the track on. It'll make life easier!
Any possibility of a Farm Tractor to rent or borrow nearby to pull it up on the trailer for you?
One other method I've seen suggested is to pick up a couple of old axles and put them underneath the tracks. Rolls easy!
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Tue, Jul 12, 2016 9:19 AM
Outbackrider
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Reply to neil:
One other method I've seen suggested is to pick up a couple of old axles and put them underneath the tracks. Rolls easy!
You Guys are great.

Thanks for all of the great advice on this.

In the process of connecting with the owner, as my contact is a friend of the owner.

I will be sure to post the status once I hear back.
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Tue, Jul 12, 2016 8:56 PM
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