D2 4U466 Starting Engine Issue

Check the oil level, check for wear debris inside, take end plate off for cursory bearing check. When you apply the brake strongly do you hear any change in the rpm?

I idle down as low as I can and then try to engage the pinion... when I pull back on the lever to brake the pinion.... I can hear the engine RPM change a little.

Is the clutch dragging?? I was also wondering if that was part of the problem. The clutch snaps in and out fine and holds good cranking the diesel.

Hi team,
first I would suggest flushing out the pinion housing of old oil and crud, then refill to level with Auto Transmission Fluid and see if you have some improvement.

From memory on the early units the pinion brakes ran a set of discs similar to those used in the pony pinion clutch.
Later units used a tapered cone that ran metal to metal within the rear bearing cage of the pinion shaft.

It is possible some early units were converted to the taper set up.

The other thing that happens is that the clutch discs can flatten out during service and drag causing the brake to loose effectivness.
The linked video by Sasquatch shows how to rectify this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Xb9WzUxo5s

As an Apprentice I was shown how to use a 12" steel rule to test each plate for dish and so select the correct sequence of stacking them--Toby shows how to do this.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Sorry, I'm new. This might be a dumb question.... What's the reason for not engaging the pinion and leaving it there before starting and while warming up the pony, with the pinion clutch disengaged?

because of the drag of the pinion clutches and pinion gear engaged can be difficult to start the pony --i do exactly what you do and get the pony running and warmed up,shut down. engage and start again

Sorry, I'm new. This might be a dumb question.... What's the reason for not engaging the pinion and leaving it there before starting and while warming up the pony, with the pinion clutch disengaged?

Hi team,
first I would suggest flushing out the pinion housing of old oil and crud, then refill to level with Auto Transmission Fluid and see if you have some improvement.

From memory on the early units the pinion brakes ran a set of discs similar to those used in the pony pinion clutch.
Later units used a tapered cone that ran metal to metal within the rear bearing cage of the pinion shaft.

It is possible some early units were converted to the taper set up.

The other thing that happens is that the clutch discs can flatten out during service and drag causing the brake to loose effectivness.
The linked video by Sasquatch shows how to rectify this.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Xb9WzUxo5s

As an Apprentice I was shown how to use a 12" steel rule to test each plate for dish and so select the correct sequence of stacking them--Toby shows how to do this.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

[quote="edb"]Hi team,
first I would suggest flushing out the pinion housing of old oil and crud, then refill to level with Auto Transmission Fluid and see if you have some improvement.
[/quote]

I've also seen this suggestion on other threads before, I haven't done it myself but would be the first thing I would try.

Jordan

[quote="jstandle"]I've also seen this suggestion on other threads before, I haven't done it myself but would be the first thing I would try.

Jordan[/quote]

This method has worked for me many times. Inexpensive and simple method. JM