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D2 44 hyd unit removal

D2 44 hyd unit removal

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Jim Davis
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I have read the old threads on this subject and understand what needs to be done: Support tank/pump unit with hoist, remove four nuts behind tank with 1-1/8" wrench.

I'll have to scare up a wrench that size. In looking at the space to work in, it looks like maybe only 1/6 of a turn is possible per wrench placement, is that right? (I would be just doing it if I had the wrench, but can only think about it too much as is....)

Sure seems a moronic way to mount something, but that period was notorious in all brands for mounting things in a way that prevents a ratchet from being used and requires pulling the part as the nuts are loosened because there isn't even room for the nut to come off otherwise. End mini rant. 😊

I have to pull the engine and will not doubt have other questions, but I will post new topics in that case so a future searcher will find them more easily.
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Wed, Jun 7, 2017 11:54 PM
neil
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Right on Jim. If you remove the side supporting brackets first, then you can get a bigger swing I think. Once you have the unit removed, then also remove the driveshaft if you're going to run the main engine. 6 or 8 bolts in the front of the crank pulley. The flange has some forcing holes that you can screw the removed bolts into to force the flange out of the pulley.
Before you remount the control, get those threads cleaned up nicely so you can spin the nuts back on by hand - it makes the process much easier. Plenty of antiseize and oil.
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Thu, Jun 8, 2017 1:27 AM
Jim Davis
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Reply to neil:
Right on Jim. If you remove the side supporting brackets first, then you can get a bigger swing I think. Once you have the unit removed, then also remove the driveshaft if you're going to run the main engine. 6 or 8 bolts in the front of the crank pulley. The flange has some forcing holes that you can screw the removed bolts into to force the flange out of the pulley.
Before you remount the control, get those threads cleaned up nicely so you can spin the nuts back on by hand - it makes the process much easier. Plenty of antiseize and oil.
As far as spinning those nuts back on, I don't expect to be doing that before late summer, at the earliest. Got to pull the engine, replace the crank, etc.

BTW, I DO have a 1-1/8 wrench after all. Now I'll have to use it.
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Thu, Jun 8, 2017 5:30 AM
neil
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Reply to Jim Davis:
As far as spinning those nuts back on, I don't expect to be doing that before late summer, at the earliest. Got to pull the engine, replace the crank, etc.

BTW, I DO have a 1-1/8 wrench after all. Now I'll have to use it.
Good deal. I had my crank turned 030 on all journals, except for the front main which I couldn't obtain 030 bearings for so that was welded back to std.
I forgot to pop my pistons out and clean the rings so I have my fingers crossed that they're not too choked up
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Thu, Jun 8, 2017 8:51 AM
jmvmopar
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Reply to neil:
Good deal. I had my crank turned 030 on all journals, except for the front main which I couldn't obtain 030 bearings for so that was welded back to std.
I forgot to pop my pistons out and clean the rings so I have my fingers crossed that they're not too choked up
Mike Meyer would be the expert on this topic.
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Thu, Jun 8, 2017 9:08 AM
Jim Davis
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Reply to neil:
Good deal. I had my crank turned 030 on all journals, except for the front main which I couldn't obtain 030 bearings for so that was welded back to std.
I forgot to pop my pistons out and clean the rings so I have my fingers crossed that they're not too choked up
Got the hydraulic unit off OK. Three nuts were 1-1/16 and one was 1-1/8. One of the studs backed out with the nut. I was going to jam a couple of nuts on the course end of the stud and take the nut off, then I realized putting it back together would be easier with it as is. But I wonder if I can get it as tight as it should be using the coarse threads.

None of the nuts was tight just pretty snug.

Next I'll be pulling the radiator. Already drained it.
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Thu, Jun 8, 2017 9:09 AM
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