D2 3J pony rebuild

I have seen them brazed up and they still seeped a little but were usable. It appeared to be a common bronze rod vs the silver bearing material you are considering.

You won't go too wrong whatever method you try Hal, just don't overdo the veeing. One of mine was bronzed, still weeped a little, and one of these days I'll epoxy it but it's a minor weep - less than many water pumps.
When you rebuild, do the main bearings right and you'll be in good shape. With one of mine, I used a method someone else on here described which was to turn down the crank and block/ front cover a little so I could deploy thrust washers. Once that's done, the crank can no longer pound the dowels which is a weak part of the design. You can make the mains out of aluminum or bronze, whatever you have lying around. There are some sizes available that are pretty close to what you need. Note that the dowel has a hole in it which is what enables the oil to drain down to lubricate the main bearing so it needs to be clear. If you don't use thrust washers, make sure you drill the dowel hole in the bearing with the gasket in place and the cover torqued down

[quote="Neil"]You won't go too wrong whatever method you try Hal, just don't overdo the veeing. One of mine was bronzed, still weeped a little, and one of these days I'll epoxy it but it's a minor weep - less than many water pumps.
When you rebuild, do the main bearings right and you'll be in good shape. With one of mine, I used a method someone else on here described which was to turn down the crank and block/ front cover a little so I could deploy thrust washers. Once that's done, the crank can no longer pound the dowels which is a weak part of the design. You can make the mains out of aluminum or bronze, whatever you have lying around. There are some sizes available that are pretty close to what you need. Note that the dowel has a hole in it which is what enables the oil to drain down to lubricate the main bearing so it needs to be clear. If you don't use thrust washers, make sure you drill the dowel hole in the bearing with the gasket in place and the cover torqued down[/quote]

Neil
I think I will try the silver solder and report back my results. If it fails I can always epoxy it later.

The trust washers are beyond my limited knowledge but I would gues most machine shop would know what your talking about. My neighbor can mic the crank for me so I know what bearings I need Is there a good place to look for those bearings?

Thanks
Hal

Just curious what kind of epoxy was used. We use the Belzona line with great success in engines cylinder liners water jackets even high pressure pipelines and pigging modules. I just used Belzona on my on my main shaft for my boat where the Cutlass bearing rides.

JP

[quote="Ace Flyguy"]Just curious what kind of epoxy was used. We use the Belzona line with great success in engines cylinder liners water jackets even high pressure pipelines and pigging modules. I just used Belzona on my on my main shaft for my boat where the Cutlass bearing rides.

JP[/quote]

I have no idea what was used previously. No one has mentioned anything specific, I would assume it just needs to be able to take a little heat as it’s just the water jacket it shouldn’t get scorching hot. Hopefully somebody I. The know will chime in. I’ll have to at belzona

Would suggest Belzona 1111 or Belzona 1392. both great products.

I've just used whatever the hardware store has - JB Weld, Gorilla Glue - they all seem to hold up

Ok I finally got my pony motor torn down and unfortunately it’s worse than I had hoped but it’s kind of what was expected. There is a 1/2” chunk broke out of one cylinder wall and the other piston connecting rod broke to pieces. can it be bored out and sleeved without being a week spot ? My guess is this isn’t a good idea even if it is possible. I’m guessing my money would be better spent buying a new pony even if it needs work. So if that’s the case who. Has one for
sale ??? I’m in north east Nevada so somewhere close to this part of the world be nice but not necessary

Second question is are these gauges originals ? They don’t work and in bad shape but would like to know if they are worth having restored eventually? [attachment=49719]C2EAB62C-09E9-4CB1-873A-2719820FA16C.jpg[/attachment][attachment=49720]1F645106-A01E-429F-BAE3-8DC784D774AC.jpeg[/attachment][attachment=49720]1F645106-A01E-429F-BAE3-8DC784D774AC.jpeg[/attachment][attachment=49721]C02D0F6C-F31F-450F-B1A6-AADC2CBD5AF6.jpeg[/attachment]

I wouldn't be surprised if you can find one for free, but a hundred should do it