D2 3J Pony Motor Questions

Just change oil. Crank seal will throw oil when crank bearings get loose or oil is diluted or the seal is just worn out. Gas won't make any difference to thevlife of the seal.

New WIRES can be installed. They are WIRE core WIRES ...do you get the impression that them being WIRE is important?

Carb can flood while running, but your gasoline shutoff valve may be seeping. If the engine runs well you might adjust the high speed mixture a little, but you are ahead of the game, no need to rebuild the carb. If it were flooding i expect you would get a lot of black smoke, fouled plugs and low power.

Thanks for the input!
The Pony seems to run ok when I get it started. It does puff blue and white smoke at times but it doesn't seem to be running rich with black smoke. It doesn't have trouble cranking the diesel engine over in start or run position. The tractor has a little over 5600hrs according to the clock. I would like to get the pony running better in order to be able to start it by hand.

Will I need to remove the mag to clean the points, etc. Are they like normal points where I should check the gap? If so, what is the gap set to?

My Pony Motor gas tank has a glass Sediment bowl like my Allis tractors do. Is this the original setup for the fuel shutoff? Or has this been added/changed? ( I will address the issue and see if it is leaking.)

Spark Plugs- Any thoughts on a replacement spark plug? Is there a good cross-reference for one available at a parts store that is not a Resistor type?

Pony Clutch Housing- Should I check the housing for leaking oil? Is there an inspection cover I can remove and look in?

You do't need to removed the mag for claining the point and they are normal point and gap are .014 to.018 inch and yes your machine should have a sediment glass bowl and the pony cluch housing have a inspection plate on for adjustement cluch and have a drain plug on the end cover

I'm sure my D4 pony is the same as your D2......I set my points at 0.016....if your not getting a good blue spark I would start with the condenser.....I did the points condenser and carbon brushes on my mag......works wonderfully....as per the burn mark on my knuckle......the sparkplugs on mine were cross refrenced to a ski-doo size plug.......plug wires pull out of the mag cab with a bit of effert........special order I believe.......did a carb rebuild on mine and it runs like a dream....carb is really easy to do....there are certain things to look for depending on your specific carb

Hi Team,
be very aware that the Eisemann magneto as fitted to the D2, D4 pony engines are designed to run with a 0.020" points gap and not anything less.
Less gap has the effect of advancing the spark and gives the possibility of the engine kicking back when trying to start--less gap also alters the factory setting of the edge gap and so gives a greater possibility of a weaker spark.

There have been instances of people saying they had to time the mag a tooth out to get the points opening timing right to the flywheel MAG mark because they were running less than the specified 0.020" point gap Eisemann have designed these mags to run.

To confuse things the American Bosch mags used on some early/later D2, D4's have points gaps set at 0.014"-0.018"--as others have said above.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

Thanks for the input! I'll get the hood off and take a look at the mag and check gap/clean points. I'll look into the fuel sediment bowl as well and see if it's leaking. And also inspect/drain the pony clutch housing to make sure nothing has leaked in there.

Thanks for your help! I'll post what I found when I'm able to find some time to work on it!

If you change the wires, hunt up some metal conductor wire. Resistance wire is death to magnetos.

There is no way you can get gas dilution in your oil unless it comes out of the gasoline tank. (duh) Get a new valve or plumb in a different type valve, or just run with the sediment bowl loose so you can get an idea of how much drip is getting by. Then fix as you like it.

how I understand it....the carbs on these are a downdraft carb....if there is any leakage in the carb it will end up in your crankcase....that is why ist should be a common practice to run the carb dry to shut off the pony.....I actually disconnected...well.....broke....the mag shut off switch so I had to run it out to shut it off.....if you do that and your still getting gas in the oil....then you have a leaky carb and valve.....I think this is the reason my D4-7U has two petcocks for the gas