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D13000 precup cooper ring

D13000 precup cooper ring

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mojo66
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Installing new pre cups in a d13000, would it hurt to coat the copper ring that seals it between the bottom of pre cups in head with copper coat?
Anything I need to know installing these buggers?
Also I noticed that both intake and exhaust valves look identical, can I use a intake in replace for an exhaust? I just don't see any difference between the two, otherwise I have to order one, thanks for any replies
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Fri, Jul 28, 2017 6:35 PM
janmeermans
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mojo66,

I am trying to find answers to your question. Stand by.

JanM
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Sat, Jul 29, 2017 7:01 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to janmeermans:
mojo66,

I am trying to find answers to your question. Stand by.

JanM
Intake and exhaust valves are not the same part number and are not the same. Are you dealing with pressed in or threaded pre-combustion chambers. Don't think it would make any difference if you copper coated the seat washers or not. Definitely would want to put anti seize on the threaded versions.
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Sat, Jul 29, 2017 9:41 PM
mojo66
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Intake and exhaust valves are not the same part number and are not the same. Are you dealing with pressed in or threaded pre-combustion chambers. Don't think it would make any difference if you copper coated the seat washers or not. Definitely would want to put anti seize on the threaded versions.

Pressed in pre cups and drop in injectors with hold down bracket
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Sat, Jul 29, 2017 10:42 PM
mojo66
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Reply to mojo66:

Pressed in pre cups and drop in injectors with hold down bracket
Looking down in the port where the pre cups bottoms out in the head it's a tad pitted where the copper seals goes is why I was asking about use of copper coat, any ideas how to smooth it out?
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Sat, Jul 29, 2017 11:44 PM
janmeermans
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Reply to mojo66:
Looking down in the port where the pre cups bottoms out in the head it's a tad pitted where the copper seals goes is why I was asking about use of copper coat, any ideas how to smooth it out?
One of our members of Chapter 16, Scotty Graham, is currently putting in new liner seals for our D13000 sawmill engine project so I asked him about the valves being discussed here. He says "The two part numbers reflect different seat angles even though they are the same diameter." Ours is a 1940 production but "later engines had the same seat angle but the exhaust contact is wider to transfer heat. The intakes have a small groove around the top of the stem to identify them from exhaust."

He also noted that they did not have Copper Coat in 1940 😊 but putting some in there would not hurt.

Good luck with your repair.

JanM
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Sun, Jul 30, 2017 9:29 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to janmeermans:
One of our members of Chapter 16, Scotty Graham, is currently putting in new liner seals for our D13000 sawmill engine project so I asked him about the valves being discussed here. He says "The two part numbers reflect different seat angles even though they are the same diameter." Ours is a 1940 production but "later engines had the same seat angle but the exhaust contact is wider to transfer heat. The intakes have a small groove around the top of the stem to identify them from exhaust."

He also noted that they did not have Copper Coat in 1940 😊 but putting some in there would not hurt.

Good luck with your repair.

JanM
If the chamber seats are not in good shape they need to be spot faced. I would think those push in chambers need all the help they can get. Metallurgy of valve is normally different between intake and exhaust.
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Sun, Jul 30, 2017 9:37 PM
willitrun
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Reply to Old Magnet:
If the chamber seats are not in good shape they need to be spot faced. I would think those push in chambers need all the help they can get. Metallurgy of valve is normally different between intake and exhaust.
on my 3t i used valve grinding compound between head and injector , rotated back and forth to lap them and clean them up
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Sun, Jul 30, 2017 10:39 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to willitrun:
on my 3t i used valve grinding compound between head and injector , rotated back and forth to lap them and clean them up
Yes, that would probably work for light clean up so long as you don't go swapping chambers. Not going to be handy if there is a true interference fit between the chamber and the head. I suppose a mandrel could be made to do the job.
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Sun, Jul 30, 2017 11:36 PM
mojo66
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Reply to janmeermans:
One of our members of Chapter 16, Scotty Graham, is currently putting in new liner seals for our D13000 sawmill engine project so I asked him about the valves being discussed here. He says "The two part numbers reflect different seat angles even though they are the same diameter." Ours is a 1940 production but "later engines had the same seat angle but the exhaust contact is wider to transfer heat. The intakes have a small groove around the top of the stem to identify them from exhaust."

He also noted that they did not have Copper Coat in 1940 😊 but putting some in there would not hurt.

Good luck with your repair.

JanM
[quote="janmeermans"]One of our members of Chapter 16, Scotty Graham, is currently putting in new liner seals for our D13000 sawmill engine project so I asked him about the valves being discussed here. He says "The two part numbers reflect different seat angles even though they are the same diameter." Ours is a 1940 production but "later engines had the same seat angle but the exhaust contact is wider to transfer heat. The intakes have a small groove around the top of the stem to identify them from exhaust."

He also noted that they did not have Copper Coat in 1940 😊 but putting some in there would not hurt.

Good luck with your repair.

JanM[/quote]
Thanks, I think the machine shop cut them all the same angle, I'll DBL check
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Wed, Aug 2, 2017 11:06 AM
mojo66
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Reply to Old Magnet:
If the chamber seats are not in good shape they need to be spot faced. I would think those push in chambers need all the help they can get. Metallurgy of valve is normally different between intake and exhaust.


Yes I heard they were different in that aspect
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Wed, Aug 2, 2017 11:07 AM
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