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cowboyofequipment
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Need timing info for fuel pump. Is there any way for the pump to be out of time? Dozer will not start, smokes white and will hit on either but will not run. Have blead fuel pump and all lines.Any ideas??????????
p.s was told it run when parked!!!!!๐Ÿ˜†๐Ÿ˜†
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Sun, Aug 1, 2010 2:32 AM
zootownjeepguy
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Hi, If it "ran when parked" it's doubtful that the timing could be off. With what limited experience I have had with Cat's, the pump can only go on one way.
I had a similar problem with a little Kubota V800 diesel engine. Turned out to be really old fuel. I was told it "ran when parked" but it had been parked for 11 years. It started and ran great once I flushed the lines with fresh fuel.
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
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Sun, Aug 1, 2010 9:13 AM
ccjersey
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How much white smoke?

If you're getting clouds of dense white smoke and no start, then you need to add the ether on top of that or get it hotter/spin it faster with the pony motor.

Is the decompression lever "in" (pointing toward the radiator) or "out" (pointing out toward you when you're operating the pony motor. "out" should greatly unload the pony motor and "in" should make it really open up and bark.

If you're not getting a lot of smoke, then the rack inside the fuel injection pump housing may not be moving from the "shutoff" position. May need to snatch real hard on the throttle lever to get it to come over the detent from shutoff to run. Take the cover off the side of the injection pump housing and watch the rack move back and forth. There is no hard connection between the throttle lever/linkage and the rack, it is spring loaded in there, so you can't be sure the rack is moving just because the external crank is moving.

While you have the cover off, turn it over with the pony motor and watch the plungers go up and down on the pumps. Usually they stick up and will not come back down by the spring pressure. Also won't turn when they stick up in the pump, so that locks the rack where it is, can cause a runaway or no start, just depends on where it was when it stuck.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time๐Ÿ˜„
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Sun, Aug 1, 2010 9:29 AM
cowboyofequipment
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Reply to ccjersey:
How much white smoke?

If you're getting clouds of dense white smoke and no start, then you need to add the ether on top of that or get it hotter/spin it faster with the pony motor.

Is the decompression lever "in" (pointing toward the radiator) or "out" (pointing out toward you when you're operating the pony motor. "out" should greatly unload the pony motor and "in" should make it really open up and bark.

If you're not getting a lot of smoke, then the rack inside the fuel injection pump housing may not be moving from the "shutoff" position. May need to snatch real hard on the throttle lever to get it to come over the detent from shutoff to run. Take the cover off the side of the injection pump housing and watch the rack move back and forth. There is no hard connection between the throttle lever/linkage and the rack, it is spring loaded in there, so you can't be sure the rack is moving just because the external crank is moving.

While you have the cover off, turn it over with the pony motor and watch the plungers go up and down on the pumps. Usually they stick up and will not come back down by the spring pressure. Also won't turn when they stick up in the pump, so that locks the rack where it is, can cause a runaway or no start, just depends on where it was when it stuck.
Have new fuel up to nozzels, Have removed side cover and can move rack by hand . Is full throttle rack all the way forward? have 24 volt eletric start no pony motor.Have removed injector & seen spray pattern, not very impressive pattern more like a stream. Will run on either but not on fuel.
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Sun, Aug 1, 2010 8:31 PM
ccjersey
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If you can see that it isn't really atomizing the fuel, get a set of injectors and go have fun running your "new" CAT!

If you absolutely want to confirm that they're a problem, then have them tested on a bench pump. They should "crack" at around 500 psi and have a fine evenly distributed spray and shut off cleanly. The engine should run with breaking pressure down to around 400 psi as long as they do spray and don't leak. A new set would make a difference in the performance of the engine compared to some that are as low as 400 psi. Occasionally cleaning the orifice at the tip of the injector to remove carbon and pumping them several times on a tester can improve the performance of some of them.

Rack position is forward against the stop for full fuel, it should go there by governor spring pressure when the throttle is pulled wide open with the engine stopped.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time๐Ÿ˜„
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Mon, Aug 2, 2010 4:18 AM
cowboyofequipment
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Reply to ccjersey:
If you can see that it isn't really atomizing the fuel, get a set of injectors and go have fun running your "new" CAT!

If you absolutely want to confirm that they're a problem, then have them tested on a bench pump. They should "crack" at around 500 psi and have a fine evenly distributed spray and shut off cleanly. The engine should run with breaking pressure down to around 400 psi as long as they do spray and don't leak. A new set would make a difference in the performance of the engine compared to some that are as low as 400 psi. Occasionally cleaning the orifice at the tip of the injector to remove carbon and pumping them several times on a tester can improve the performance of some of them.

Rack position is forward against the stop for full fuel, it should go there by governor spring pressure when the throttle is pulled wide open with the engine stopped.
Rack seems to return to off when I let go of it,even when throttle is wide open. It has been 8 years since it last run.I was told the govnerhousing was stolen from the pump and replaced. Not shure what kind of a mess i'm in. My dad bought it sight unseen I'm am just picking up the pieces. I will test nozzel next. Thanks for all ideas!
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Mon, Aug 2, 2010 4:32 AM
ccjersey
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OK, good information there. I think the shutoff latch/detent mechanism is stuck or you haven't twisted the throttle far enough counter-clockwise (looking at the lever on the side of the governor). If the rack returns to the back/right when you let go of it, then it's returning to shutoff.

Might be a good idea to have a look inside to see if anything is loose or missing in there. You can see the shutoff latch mechanism best by removing the cover that has the throttle linkage connected to the lever on the outside. You DO need to take lever off the shaft! There is an additional small screw inside the round ratcheting mechanism that must be removed to get the whole thing off. The shaft inside the ratcheting mechanism has a slot that engages the part that stays in the governor housing. Once the cover's removed, the latch is at the top left corner of the opening.

The whole back of the governor housing can be removed easily, so you can get a good look inside for loose or missing components. Sounds like the rack is connected to something inside there or it would not be moving on it's own when you release it. I believe SJ had a runaway once because someone forgot to put in the pin that connects the governor to the rack. With the ratcheting mechinism installed, you can look in at the back and see what is happening when you move the throttle lever. You would not want to turn the engine with the rear cover off since the spindle runs in a bushing in the large rear cover.

The running and stopped latch positions are shown in the lower two drawings of the page below.
Attachment
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time๐Ÿ˜„
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Mon, Aug 2, 2010 6:08 AM
cowboyofequipment
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Reply to ccjersey:
OK, good information there. I think the shutoff latch/detent mechanism is stuck or you haven't twisted the throttle far enough counter-clockwise (looking at the lever on the side of the governor). If the rack returns to the back/right when you let go of it, then it's returning to shutoff.

Might be a good idea to have a look inside to see if anything is loose or missing in there. You can see the shutoff latch mechanism best by removing the cover that has the throttle linkage connected to the lever on the outside. You DO need to take lever off the shaft! There is an additional small screw inside the round ratcheting mechanism that must be removed to get the whole thing off. The shaft inside the ratcheting mechanism has a slot that engages the part that stays in the governor housing. Once the cover's removed, the latch is at the top left corner of the opening.

The whole back of the governor housing can be removed easily, so you can get a good look inside for loose or missing components. Sounds like the rack is connected to something inside there or it would not be moving on it's own when you release it. I believe SJ had a runaway once because someone forgot to put in the pin that connects the governor to the rack. With the ratcheting mechinism installed, you can look in at the back and see what is happening when you move the throttle lever. You would not want to turn the engine with the rear cover off since the spindle runs in a bushing in the large rear cover.

The running and stopped latch positions are shown in the lower two drawings of the page below.
Attachment
Thanks for the info. looks like i will remove the govenor later in the week.I will remove nozzels and test,almost wish i had a pony motor I have almost burnt the battery cables off trying to start it.๐Ÿ˜–mokin:
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Mon, Aug 2, 2010 9:03 AM
cowboyofequipment
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Reply to cowboyofequipment:
Thanks for the info. looks like i will remove the govenor later in the week.I will remove nozzels and test,almost wish i had a pony motor I have almost burnt the battery cables off trying to start it.๐Ÿ˜–mokin:
Well I have tested the injectors they are trash some pop at 200 others at 450 most have little or no spray pattern . I have also disassembled the govenor found throttle linkage very worn. One question will 318 d6 nozzels work in a 315 d4? Are they the same injectors ?
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Thu, Aug 5, 2010 4:58 AM
gemdozer
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Reply to cowboyofequipment:
Well I have tested the injectors they are trash some pop at 200 others at 450 most have little or no spray pattern . I have also disassembled the govenor found throttle linkage very worn. One question will 318 d6 nozzels work in a 315 d4? Are they the same injectors ?
The d6serie 8u and d315 motor use the same nozzles
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Thu, Aug 5, 2010 5:57 AM
cowboyofequipment
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Reply to gemdozer:
The d6serie 8u and d315 motor use the same nozzles
I priced injectors today 45.00 each for rebuilt.will remove injectors form other engine and test this weekend. If i cant find 6 good ones will have to spend a little money. At least if the d 6 is junk I will have new injectors for the d 4.:frusty:
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Fri, Aug 6, 2010 3:33 AM
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