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D 2 Fuel Filter Drain

D 2 Fuel Filter Drain

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dogger
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Hello!
I have D 2 5U16538. This tractor has not run in probably 10 or 12 years. The pony motor starts easy now ( rope start) and I replaced a stripped starter pinion. The main engine turns over like a champ, but will not start. I had fuel at both the lower and upper housing vents but zero fuel pressure. Maybe a bad gauge. So I replaced the fuel gauge and was changing the fuel filters when I noticed that the fuel filter housing had not drained even tho the fuel filter drain plug had been removed. Removing the drain to try to clean out the passage between the drain and the fuel chamber did not help much.
Any advice on how to clean out this passage so the filter will drain would be appreciated.
Also, is it necessary that this drain actually works?
Any help would be appreciated!
Dogger
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Sat, Sep 30, 2017 12:52 AM
Rome K/G
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Bailing wire and compressed air.
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Sat, Sep 30, 2017 3:03 AM
STEPHEN
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[quote="Dogger"]Hello!
I have D 2 5U16538. This tractor has not run in probably 10 or 12 years. The pony motor starts easy now ( rope start) and I replaced a stripped starter pinion. The main engine turns over like a champ, but will not start. I had fuel at both the lower and upper housing vents but zero fuel pressure. Maybe a bad gauge. So I replaced the fuel gauge and was changing the fuel filters when I noticed that the fuel filter housing had not drained even tho the fuel filter drain plug had been removed. Removing the drain to try to clean out the passage between the drain and the fuel chamber did not help much.
Any advice on how to clean out this passage so the filter will drain would be appreciated.
Also, is it necessary that this drain actually works?
Any help would be appreciated!
Dogger[/quote]

Root around from both top and bottom to break up the solidified sediment, once it is drained look inside and clean it good with a brush and solvent. You need the fuel drain to work because that is where all the crap filtered out of the fuel accumulates. In between filter changes you can drain the swamp to keep the housing tidy.
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Sat, Sep 30, 2017 3:57 AM
ccjersey
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Had to use a long screwdriver to chip and ream the hardened crud out of the filter housing drain on the D318 I am working on this summer. It had been sitting up for 10 years or more and the stuff was like concrete! I made a mess with compressed air but I got it broken loose sticking the air gun in the bottom with a heavy rag held over the top. Best to plug the clean fuel passage in the top of the housing before you start blowing that crud everywhere!

The main thing for the drain is to remove accumulated water. Of course you can get rid of sediment too, but the water is going to be a problem long before there is enough sediment to matter.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sat, Sep 30, 2017 6:40 AM
Ray54
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Reply to ccjersey:
Had to use a long screwdriver to chip and ream the hardened crud out of the filter housing drain on the D318 I am working on this summer. It had been sitting up for 10 years or more and the stuff was like concrete! I made a mess with compressed air but I got it broken loose sticking the air gun in the bottom with a heavy rag held over the top. Best to plug the clean fuel passage in the top of the housing before you start blowing that crud everywhere!

The main thing for the drain is to remove accumulated water. Of course you can get rid of sediment too, but the water is going to be a problem long before there is enough sediment to matter.
The next step after the filter housing is primed,you need to bleed the pump. Many times I just us a 3/4 end wrench and back off the injector line at the pump. Have never had one run without a least bleeding the lines. Other times I could not get the engine run without opening the priming vents on the back side of the injector pump. The fittings need a "special"size tool that is available from Cat. Or you can make one from a socket,which has had much discussion on here. So you may be able to find the old information with a search here.
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Sun, Oct 1, 2017 5:39 AM
neil
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Reply to Ray54:
The next step after the filter housing is primed,you need to bleed the pump. Many times I just us a 3/4 end wrench and back off the injector line at the pump. Have never had one run without a least bleeding the lines. Other times I could not get the engine run without opening the priming vents on the back side of the injector pump. The fittings need a "special"size tool that is available from Cat. Or you can make one from a socket,which has had much discussion on here. So you may be able to find the old information with a search here.
Dogger, when I cleaned out my 5U, I had to take the pump body off to clean the fuel gallery out that runs from front to rear, because it was choked with rust and crud. I would have been annoyed if that crud had gone through the pumps. It wasn't a big job to remove the governor and then the pump body, and Cat has all the gaskets. It also gives you the opportunity to swap out the two o-rings front and rear of that gallery that harden and weep over time.
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Sun, Oct 1, 2017 10:38 PM
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