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D-2 5J still looking for fuel problems

D-2 5J still looking for fuel problems

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vansgarage
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Checked the rack today and took photo's of throtle in closed off position, and in wide open position and movement of the governor rod inrelation to the rack. Don't know what is going on here. Does anyone notice anything wrong here. I changed this from rope to electric starter, and thought all parts including bell crank were right. It doesn't look like the rack moves enough. I think I have some old pics (first three), mixed in here I couldn't delete.
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Fri, Sep 6, 2013 11:03 AM
edb
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Hi vansgarage,
check that the bellcrank has a long and a short arm. The long arm connects to the Governor lever at the Injection pump.
If the bellcrank is correct then, from your pix, I feel you need to adjust the yoke to shorten the vertical rod just in front of the Serial No plate to get the bellcrank to touch the High Idle stop (small screw at bottom of gov housing) as shown in pic #9. This to occur slightly before the hand lever at the dash is in the fully pulled back position.
The large screw above the the bellcrank is the Low Idle stop and it has a spring loaded plunger in it which may be seized. It needs to work so as the rack can be pulled to the Shut Off position ( by depressing the plunger) by the Stop Run lever.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Sep 7, 2013 6:51 AM
vansgarage
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Reply to edb:
Hi vansgarage,
check that the bellcrank has a long and a short arm. The long arm connects to the Governor lever at the Injection pump.
If the bellcrank is correct then, from your pix, I feel you need to adjust the yoke to shorten the vertical rod just in front of the Serial No plate to get the bellcrank to touch the High Idle stop (small screw at bottom of gov housing) as shown in pic #9. This to occur slightly before the hand lever at the dash is in the fully pulled back position.
The large screw above the the bellcrank is the Low Idle stop and it has a spring loaded plunger in it which may be seized. It needs to work so as the rack can be pulled to the Shut Off position ( by depressing the plunger) by the Stop Run lever.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
The bell crank is offset so it can only go on one way. The rod could be out of adjustment as I never changed that setting. No matter what I do, throttle wide open or closed to lock pin, the rack as measured only moves back about .575". I can move it with my fingers roughly another 1/2" back and forth. I'm not that familiar with this type of injection pump, and know I am missing something here.
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Mon, Sep 9, 2013 10:51 AM
ccjersey
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As Eddie suggested, the first step is to get the throttle linkage adjusted so that you can get the travel to take the lever in the governor housing to both it's high idle and low idle/shutoff stops. Then these rpm setpoints can be adjusted to their specified values. Once you get that done, then you're to the point where the parts of the governor have to work properly to get good governor response.

Just looking at the rust in the rear compartment, I would suspect the spring has gotten weaker and may not give you full fuel response under load, but you have to start out stretching it to the high idle stop to get to full rated rpm. Get that done first, before worrying about the rest of it.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Sep 9, 2013 6:44 PM
Jack
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Reply to ccjersey:
As Eddie suggested, the first step is to get the throttle linkage adjusted so that you can get the travel to take the lever in the governor housing to both it's high idle and low idle/shutoff stops. Then these rpm setpoints can be adjusted to their specified values. Once you get that done, then you're to the point where the parts of the governor have to work properly to get good governor response.

Just looking at the rust in the rear compartment, I would suspect the spring has gotten weaker and may not give you full fuel response under load, but you have to start out stretching it to the high idle stop to get to full rated rpm. Get that done first, before worrying about the rest of it.
First, disconnect the throttle control lever so everything works freely, and back out the low speed adjuster. Hose everything down liberally with 50/50% ATF and acetone as per thread on this board some time back. That stuff really works. The thing to keep in mind is that it needs to work freely through the entire range of operation, and that's for every part in there that moves--springs, levers, rack, the whole works. If something sticks before it reaches it's stop, things are not going to work right.

Clean and dry that housing and when you put the cover back on, this is one place you can use RTV for a gasket. You need to keep water out of here. (Not the rack cover, the control housing.) There's no oil in here to worry about.

This solved all the problems I had with mine many years ago. Maybe it will do the same for you. I hope. D2 5J is a great little machine.
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Tue, Sep 10, 2013 11:09 AM
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