D-2, 5J refusing to start

Best way is to pull the pony heads and wire/blow/wash through there. A piece of flex cable in a drill can rattle around in there. You can usually reuse the pony head gaskets, just torque the nuts to ~ 30 foot pounds I think. If you want to spray them with copper coat sealer that would be great, but not usually necessary.

Does the pony load up when you take off the compression release? Have you got a LOT of smoke or just some white puffs? Could easily have the rack stuck in shutoff and just a sniff of fuel making it into the cylinders. Probably worth taking the side cover off the injection pump housing and checking the rack and pump lifters/plungers are moving right.

Have to check the rack, smoke is grayish and smells like its getting fuel, you don't want to be in it long. I bought a set of head gaskets from Olsens 2 years ago thinking I might be able to see some crap laying in there when I pulled them. I really like your Idea about letting the cable rattle around in there. It's up in the woods at my hunting lodge, no power, water, etc. so have to use a generator when working around it for power. Thanks for the tips.
JV

And yes the pony wants to quit when you really put the clutch to it, I was nursing it as best I could and still keeping the speed up. I don't remember it loading up like that before.
JV

Not a long term solution. but if its just to get it going after 4 years you could use some cold start spray (ether).

Got a product here called 'start ya bastard'. works good.

Not a long term solution. but if its just to get it going after 4 years you could use some cold start spray (ether).

Got a product here called 'start ya bastard'. works good.

On a "J" series buried under the pony oil drain, somewhere behind the main oil fill is a small drain right down in the bottom of the cold coolant in. You need to take that plug out, take that battery/generator powered drill with the flexcable, get it in there. Guide it toward the Main, then guide it toward the Pony. If it is overheating, this is where the problem lies. You need lots of water/coolant going into the radiator to flush the crud while doing this!
IF THAT DOES NOT HELP, then ask about bleeder vents on top of pony.

[quote="drujinin"]On a "J" series buried under the pony oil drain, somewhere behind the main oil fill is a small drain right down in the bottom of the cold coolant in. You need to take that plug out, take that battery/generator powered drill with the flexcable, get it in there. Guide it toward the Main, then guide it toward the Pony. If it is overheating, this is where the problem lies. You need lots of water/coolant going into the radiator to flush the crud while doing this!
IF THAT DOES NOT HELP, then ask about bleeder vents on top of pony.[/quote]

Yup, I know where that drain is, and can actually get to it. I didn;t think of poking into that hole. Thanks. I have a pet cock on the top bleeder, and use that to make sure coolant is in the pony and monitor it for steam when that baby gets super hot. Your suggestion on the engine pet cock may be the answer. Thanks again Guys for tips.
JV

Got up between rain storms, removed the lower rear block bleeder, used a piece of speedometor cable with a drill in as far as I could get. Used ATV with pump sprayer filled from creek, and flushed the crap out of it. Hooked up an air compressor on the pony bleeder and flushed evrything out until it turned clear. A lot of slug built up in there. Enough !, got hot and late, and bugs would carry you away, put her to bed until the next trip, then I'll check the fuel rack.
For those of you that by pass a leaking oil cooler, heres my solution.

Zip Tie that tubing so it doesn't vibrate and fatigue crack!
Other than that I like it!
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