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D-17000 Dampener Pulley

D-17000 Dampener Pulley

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PRR 9339
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Now that I got my D-17000 running We spotted a problem. There is excesive vibration on the Dampner Pulley. It wasn't loose. Several folks said If I don't change it I WILL break my crank and or spin the bearings real quick.

Can anyone tell me do they make repro Dampeners rubbers? I would think I could replace the dryrotted piece and not the whole thing. Anyone know where I could find an orginal assembly? Cat didn't have it and they have a used one listed on Smart Parts.

I have a Part #7B1553 on the pulley wheel No other part numbers found so far.

How do you get the old one off. I removed the 8 bolts on the pulley and there is a 3" nut on the center hub, but a 15/16" bolt head inside the hollow nut. I did not want to turn off. several locals said the 15/16" (5/8" fine thread would be to small for anything on a crank.

[attachment=14006]IMG_1010.JPG[/attachment][attachment=14007]IMG_0997.JPG[/attachment]

Thanks

jamie
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Tue, Aug 14, 2012 1:08 AM
Old Magnet
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The vibration damper is a tapered shaft fit on the crankshaft and will need to be removed with a two bolt puller attached to the damper weight after:
1. Removing the lock pin in the crankshaft jaw nut
2. Remove the jaw nut (RH thread)
3. Remove the center locking capscrew by turning clockwise (LH thread)

I have no idea where you could obtain the damper material.
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Tue, Aug 14, 2012 3:56 AM
neil
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The vibration damper is a tapered shaft fit on the crankshaft and will need to be removed with a two bolt puller attached to the damper weight after:
1. Removing the lock pin in the crankshaft jaw nut
2. Remove the jaw nut (RH thread)
3. Remove the center locking capscrew by turning clockwise (LH thread)

I have no idea where you could obtain the damper material.
McMaster might have some. I don't think you have to over-analyze it - if you can find some "fairly" stiff material, get it turned true, and then just glue it on, you should be good. That engine runs pretty slowly - so I'd say so long as it doesn't actually flop around, it should be just fine. But if you do rebuild it, you'll need to make sure it's assembled concentric.
Cheers,
Neil.
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Tue, Aug 14, 2012 9:37 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to neil:
McMaster might have some. I don't think you have to over-analyze it - if you can find some "fairly" stiff material, get it turned true, and then just glue it on, you should be good. That engine runs pretty slowly - so I'd say so long as it doesn't actually flop around, it should be just fine. But if you do rebuild it, you'll need to make sure it's assembled concentric.
Cheers,
Neil.
I was wondering about the tapered cross section....possible to cast in RTV?
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Tue, Aug 14, 2012 11:01 AM
PRR 9339
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I was wondering about the tapered cross section....possible to cast in RTV?
Old Magnet

Thanks for the instructions. We had concerns given there was an R on the bolt head, we where not sure if it was left or right hand thread. I have been looking for a dampner pulley and some people are questioning if there realy is rubber in there or not. I can see it but you can't in the photo's. or aleast that is what I'm looking at. refering to you attachment the "aggragate symbol" area should be the compounded area.

Do you have the Form 30235 locomotive electric set industrial marine book? Page 28 and 29 show the crank and pulley as well as the part numbers for the dampner. My copy is so bad I can't read anything. P.242 has the puller shown with the directions you have posted above. would you have them and could you post so I could look at them? I would appreceate it.

What is the normal operating range for the 17000, on oil and tempurature?? I have about 30 psi and run at 170 degrees.

Thanks

Jamie
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Wed, Aug 15, 2012 5:28 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to PRR 9339:
Old Magnet

Thanks for the instructions. We had concerns given there was an R on the bolt head, we where not sure if it was left or right hand thread. I have been looking for a dampner pulley and some people are questioning if there realy is rubber in there or not. I can see it but you can't in the photo's. or aleast that is what I'm looking at. refering to you attachment the "aggragate symbol" area should be the compounded area.

Do you have the Form 30235 locomotive electric set industrial marine book? Page 28 and 29 show the crank and pulley as well as the part numbers for the dampner. My copy is so bad I can't read anything. P.242 has the puller shown with the directions you have posted above. would you have them and could you post so I could look at them? I would appreceate it.

What is the normal operating range for the 17000, on oil and tempurature?? I have about 30 psi and run at 170 degrees.

Thanks

Jamie
I have the Servicemens Reference Book for the D17000 engines Form30235 but it must be a different version. Pages 28 & 29 refer to water temperature regulators. There are no part numbers, just service info.
Interesting that page 242 does match with the pulling instructions which is one line of instruction and the illustration.

Operating temperature and oil pressure is right on the money.

Yes, the vibration dampening material is as you describe and I'm sure it is bonded to the two plates. Might pay to look for a service that rebuilds dampers as this is a common method of dealing with crankshaft vibration.
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Wed, Aug 15, 2012 7:33 AM
PRR 9339
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Reply to Old Magnet:
I have the Servicemens Reference Book for the D17000 engines Form30235 but it must be a different version. Pages 28 & 29 refer to water temperature regulators. There are no part numbers, just service info.
Interesting that page 242 does match with the pulling instructions which is one line of instruction and the illustration.

Operating temperature and oil pressure is right on the money.

Yes, the vibration dampening material is as you describe and I'm sure it is bonded to the two plates. Might pay to look for a service that rebuilds dampers as this is a common method of dealing with crankshaft vibration.
Guys

Thanks for the info and instruction. That 70 year old sucker didn't want to come off but it finaly did. I would have broken that center bolt thinking it was right hand thread. The big nut actualy broke apart easy, it was the 15/16" that fought us even with the heat.

Got the unit off on a bench for further evaluation to see what has to be replaced. Have the parts lined up with the listed suppilers here on the forum. The crank shaft appears to be fine no bends when we spin the motor. Hope fully no other issues on this project.

Friend told me he pulled the Barnum and Bailey circus train (empty) with his 44 tonner a while ago. 22 empty rail cars. Guess it does have alot of torque.

I have found the books for the locomotive type set up.

Thanks again guys.

Anyone one have a modern part number for the fuel and oil canisters for this thing. I also have a Nugnet oil filter sock external to the motor. Its a sock about 4' long, 4" in diameter???



Jamie
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Tue, Aug 21, 2012 2:16 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to PRR 9339:
Guys

Thanks for the info and instruction. That 70 year old sucker didn't want to come off but it finaly did. I would have broken that center bolt thinking it was right hand thread. The big nut actualy broke apart easy, it was the 15/16" that fought us even with the heat.

Got the unit off on a bench for further evaluation to see what has to be replaced. Have the parts lined up with the listed suppilers here on the forum. The crank shaft appears to be fine no bends when we spin the motor. Hope fully no other issues on this project.

Friend told me he pulled the Barnum and Bailey circus train (empty) with his 44 tonner a while ago. 22 empty rail cars. Guess it does have alot of torque.

I have found the books for the locomotive type set up.

Thanks again guys.

Anyone one have a modern part number for the fuel and oil canisters for this thing. I also have a Nugnet oil filter sock external to the motor. Its a sock about 4' long, 4" in diameter???



Jamie
If you can get a part number for the fuel filter elements (takes 12) I can probably get you a current number. I suspect it takes the same units as the tractors of the era.

Also check the oil filters to see if they are the original two element (screen and filter) type or the conversion set up with the single disposable element.

Also the engine s/n would be helpful.
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Tue, Aug 21, 2012 3:27 AM
PRR 9339
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Reply to Old Magnet:
If you can get a part number for the fuel filter elements (takes 12) I can probably get you a current number. I suspect it takes the same units as the tractors of the era.

Also check the oil filters to see if they are the original two element (screen and filter) type or the conversion set up with the single disposable element.

Also the engine s/n would be helpful.
All FIXED, Found a Dampener plate off the parts list here on the forum.

Installed it and found that someone had pryed on the unit and had bent the hub about .003. The RR turned the hub to true it back up and all is well.

Also by luck a friend switched jobs and found me some spare parts: A whole D17000 genset motor complete and in storage. Packed it up and moved it to the RR Yesterday.

[attachment=14507]IMG_1100.jpg[/attachment][attachment=14506]IMG_1092.jpg[/attachment]

Life is good

Jamie
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Sat, Sep 8, 2012 6:42 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to PRR 9339:
All FIXED, Found a Dampener plate off the parts list here on the forum.

Installed it and found that someone had pryed on the unit and had bent the hub about .003. The RR turned the hub to true it back up and all is well.

Also by luck a friend switched jobs and found me some spare parts: A whole D17000 genset motor complete and in storage. Packed it up and moved it to the RR Yesterday.

[attachment=14507]IMG_1100.jpg[/attachment][attachment=14506]IMG_1092.jpg[/attachment]

Life is good

Jamie
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Well Done!!! I was wondering how things worked out. Thanks for the feedback.
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Sat, Sep 8, 2012 7:00 AM
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