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Critique my D2 fender refurb plan please

Critique my D2 fender refurb plan please

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Old_n_slo
Topic Author
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The pics are left and right fender rearward segments that will be fabbed in once I find a 12g metal brake. I want to close up the holes that were put in there for a prior fabrication of reinforcement of extra steel inside the fuel tank seat area. By not having the rear segments, the fender fatigued and cracked.

1. I've counted 5 bolts on each side that correctly mount the fuel tank to the fender. See black arrows.
2. The fender holes that mount up to the final drive are self explanatory.
3. I've placed blue tape and noted with "W" those holes I will be welding up. Please confirm.
4. I've encountered "extra" holes I believe are factory, based on the same measurements (L vs R) and those will remain. Please confirm.

Do you agree? Comments?

Left side.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/bd49d1a1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/cb6dc3f5.jpg[/img]


Right side.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/94f92b13.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/2daa819b.jpg[/img]

Thanks!
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zootownjeepguy
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I finally got around to sandblasting my D2 fenders yesterday evening (and sprayed them with primer as the sun was setting). The holes you are planning to weld up are not "factory".

[attachment=13728]002.jpg[/attachment][attachment=13729]001.jpg[/attachment]
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Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
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Old_n_slo
Topic Author
Offline
Reply to zootownjeepguy:
I finally got around to sandblasting my D2 fenders yesterday evening (and sprayed them with primer as the sun was setting). The holes you are planning to weld up are not "factory".

[attachment=13728]002.jpg[/attachment][attachment=13729]001.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
Attachment
Rich, thanks for posting, thanks even more for your pics. It just hit me once I saw them, and the bolts that are holding the seat on your left side fender. These seats were meant for TWO adjustments (like a tractor should have a seat adjustment...eh?).

There is a top row (lined in blue), which puts the operator higher and more forward. The lower row (lined in red), puts the operator lower by about 3.5" and rearward about 1.5". Yours is set up on the top row. Mine was set up on the bottom row.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/3d82439f.jpg[/img]

I'll now further surmise there are 6 holding points (each side) for the top row, and 5 holding points for the bottom row (matching with my original post).

Since my D2 is a modified orchard model (fenders, side curtains, downward exhaust, modified intake), I guess I'll need to pick where to mount the seat.

This also now explains the hacked up cross brace (at the left front of the operator seat base) that was torched to allow more room for the fuel shutoff valve where it crosses over the final drive.

I've picked up the correct 12g patch metal today, and located a friendly metal brake operator.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/0b0cb622.jpg[/img]

Progress!!!!

👍
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zootownjeepguy
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Reply to Old_n_slo:
Rich, thanks for posting, thanks even more for your pics. It just hit me once I saw them, and the bolts that are holding the seat on your left side fender. These seats were meant for TWO adjustments (like a tractor should have a seat adjustment...eh?).

There is a top row (lined in blue), which puts the operator higher and more forward. The lower row (lined in red), puts the operator lower by about 3.5" and rearward about 1.5". Yours is set up on the top row. Mine was set up on the bottom row.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/3d82439f.jpg[/img]

I'll now further surmise there are 6 holding points (each side) for the top row, and 5 holding points for the bottom row (matching with my original post).

Since my D2 is a modified orchard model (fenders, side curtains, downward exhaust, modified intake), I guess I'll need to pick where to mount the seat.

This also now explains the hacked up cross brace (at the left front of the operator seat base) that was torched to allow more room for the fuel shutoff valve where it crosses over the final drive.

I've picked up the correct 12g patch metal today, and located a friendly metal brake operator.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/0b0cb622.jpg[/img]

Progress!!!!

👍
I saw a D2 at an antique tractor show a couple years ago that had some new fenders fabricated. The fenders were bent up straight, like a box and the corners were cut with a radius with a curved piece welded around the edge. It looked great, and you couldn't tell it from factory fenders unless you looked underneath.👍

The fenders I have will need a little work but they're not too bad. Hoping to have them on my D2 along with a nicer seat/tank before Bowling Green.
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Old_n_slo
Topic Author
Offline
Reply to zootownjeepguy:
I saw a D2 at an antique tractor show a couple years ago that had some new fenders fabricated. The fenders were bent up straight, like a box and the corners were cut with a radius with a curved piece welded around the edge. It looked great, and you couldn't tell it from factory fenders unless you looked underneath.👍

The fenders I have will need a little work but they're not too bad. Hoping to have them on my D2 along with a nicer seat/tank before Bowling Green.
I cut out some fubar'ed reinforcements, and some welds that I could duplicate only if blindfolded.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/18347628.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/9f3dcca3.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/11d8906d.jpg[/img]

I've chosen to put the butt weld in between the rear support. This allows it to be additionally secured by the factory weld which I will duplicate that is on that same rear support.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/c65193c1.jpg[/img]

Made the replacement metal templates today. Those will head out this weekend to the fab shop.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/7dc09575.jpg[/img]

Right about now, I'm wishing I had a MIG welder and not just my gas or arc setup. 😞
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64farmboy
Offline
Member
Reply to Old_n_slo:
I cut out some fubar'ed reinforcements, and some welds that I could duplicate only if blindfolded.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/18347628.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/9f3dcca3.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/11d8906d.jpg[/img]

I've chosen to put the butt weld in between the rear support. This allows it to be additionally secured by the factory weld which I will duplicate that is on that same rear support.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/c65193c1.jpg[/img]

Made the replacement metal templates today. Those will head out this weekend to the fab shop.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/7dc09575.jpg[/img]

Right about now, I'm wishing I had a MIG welder and not just my gas or arc setup. 😞
[quote="Old_n_slo"]I cut out some fubar'ed reinforcements, and some welds that I could duplicate only if blindfolded.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/18347628.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/9f3dcca3.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/11d8906d.jpg[/img]

I've chosen to put the butt weld in between the rear support. This allows it to be additionally secured by the factory weld which I will duplicate that is on that same rear support.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/c65193c1.jpg[/img]

Made the replacement metal templates today. Those will head out this weekend to the fab shop.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/7dc09575.jpg[/img]

Right about now, I'm wishing I had a MIG welder and not just my gas or arc setup. 😞[/quote]

Great looking job, in addition to my gas and arc I picked up a flux core MIG welder from harbor freight works well for sheet metal work and tacking before arc welding. Welds up to .125 stock real well
Restored 1970 ford tractor,1931 Model A PU streetrod, lifted 1978 F150, 1971 VW bug, antique chain saws
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Old_n_slo
Topic Author
Offline
Reply to 64farmboy:
[quote="Old_n_slo"]I cut out some fubar'ed reinforcements, and some welds that I could duplicate only if blindfolded.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/18347628.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/9f3dcca3.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/11d8906d.jpg[/img]

I've chosen to put the butt weld in between the rear support. This allows it to be additionally secured by the factory weld which I will duplicate that is on that same rear support.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/c65193c1.jpg[/img]

Made the replacement metal templates today. Those will head out this weekend to the fab shop.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/7dc09575.jpg[/img]

Right about now, I'm wishing I had a MIG welder and not just my gas or arc setup. 😞[/quote]

Great looking job, in addition to my gas and arc I picked up a flux core MIG welder from harbor freight works well for sheet metal work and tacking before arc welding. Welds up to .125 stock real well
In post #3, I offered the thought that when the D2 seat was in the lower of 2 positions, it required 1 bolt on the bottom row. This was thought to be the case, but I am showing STANDARD inner fenders.

When using what I believe to be CAT supplied ORCHARD inner fenders, there is a spot for BOTH bolts on the lower row to be attached....when in the lower seat position. See pic.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/c96b1b80.jpg[/img]

There you go, everything you didn't want to know about seat mounting bolts. 😆
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Old_n_slo
Topic Author
Offline
Reply to Old_n_slo:
In post #3, I offered the thought that when the D2 seat was in the lower of 2 positions, it required 1 bolt on the bottom row. This was thought to be the case, but I am showing STANDARD inner fenders.

When using what I believe to be CAT supplied ORCHARD inner fenders, there is a spot for BOTH bolts on the lower row to be attached....when in the lower seat position. See pic.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/c96b1b80.jpg[/img]

There you go, everything you didn't want to know about seat mounting bolts. 😆
Got some newly formed parts back from my friend. Niiiiice work. I've got some honey do's on the list that take priority over this, but there is nothing standing in my way now! Yippeeee.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/41d381d0.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/b8400498.jpg[/img]
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zootownjeepguy
Offline
Reply to Old_n_slo:
Got some newly formed parts back from my friend. Niiiiice work. I've got some honey do's on the list that take priority over this, but there is nothing standing in my way now! Yippeeee.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/41d381d0.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/b8400498.jpg[/img]
Looks good! Next step; playing with the Welder. 👍👍
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Old_n_slo
Topic Author
Offline
Reply to zootownjeepguy:
Looks good! Next step; playing with the Welder. 👍👍
This is my first MIG weldup ever, after about 5 minutes of practice at the welding store. Not bad, if I may say so. I had a few minutes to play today, so brought these out and flung some sparks around.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/c4bc70b5.jpg[/img]

..and after grinding a radius...

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/1fabe9c6.jpg[/img]
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
zootownjeepguy
Offline
Reply to Old_n_slo:
This is my first MIG weldup ever, after about 5 minutes of practice at the welding store. Not bad, if I may say so. I had a few minutes to play today, so brought these out and flung some sparks around.

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/c4bc70b5.jpg[/img]

..and after grinding a radius...

[img]http://i303.photobucket.com/albums/nn152/tucana_photos1/CAT_D2/1fabe9c6.jpg[/img]
Looks "Perfessional". Good job!! 👍👍👍
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
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