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Coolant leaking

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ThomasMueller
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I have recently finished rebuilding my D2 and painted it as mentioned earlier. I had it running last in august and the engine ran really well after having the air bled from the fuel system. It has been sitting in the shop ever since and I have done some finishing touches like decals and minor paint touchups. Today I went out there to do my usual tinkering in the shop and noticed it was wet looking under the Machine so I started looking and found that all four injectors are leaking coolant around where they go into the block??? I never removed or bothered any of the injectors during my rebuild (mostly tranny bearings and UC work) I don't understand why it would start leaking 3 months after its last run??? I did replace the coolant but never had the engine sit dry for more than the couple hours that it took to do repair work on the radiator. Also if the seals are leaking on top could the bottom seals also be leaking coolant into the oil because it is about 1/4 in up from the full mark (which is where I filled engine oil up to). I don't understand why it would start leaking as there was no sign of leaking prior to the coolant change (had really old green stuff in it) could the new coolant be thinner and eat the seals??? Tractor no. Is 3j 1509 also I was wondering if anyone has rollers for this style machine? I had to source two u series rollers to complete my tractor, I'm located in central Alberta. Finally (after I figure out my coolant problem) would there be interest in me doing a write up for the magazine on my bush find project?


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Thu, Dec 10, 2015 10:55 AM
Old Magnet
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Took me a minute to realize the picture is upside down...
Seals are probably old and cracked, they don't last forever. Not that big a deal to replace. Not likely the seats are leaking but you may have the same o-ring seal problem with the one between the filter tower and the injection pump, same seal at governor end. These are famous for drying out, shrinking and allowing fuel to migrate to the engine sump and/or into the governor.
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Thu, Dec 10, 2015 11:07 AM
Steve A
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Took me a minute to realize the picture is upside down...
Seals are probably old and cracked, they don't last forever. Not that big a deal to replace. Not likely the seats are leaking but you may have the same o-ring seal problem with the one between the filter tower and the injection pump, same seal at governor end. These are famous for drying out, shrinking and allowing fuel to migrate to the engine sump and/or into the governor.
Thomas

I had a oil leak on my D2 from the filter housing, I found the o Rings were so hard they broke into pieces when I tried to remove them, The good news is Cat still provided OEM parts at a good price, problem solved.


The magazine is always looking for Then and Now Stories. Contact the club office, I am sure they will be interested as are the rest of us.

Posting pictures here is always good also.
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Thu, Dec 10, 2015 6:58 PM
ThomasMueller
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Reply to Steve A:
Thomas

I had a oil leak on my D2 from the filter housing, I found the o Rings were so hard they broke into pieces when I tried to remove them, The good news is Cat still provided OEM parts at a good price, problem solved.


The magazine is always looking for Then and Now Stories. Contact the club office, I am sure they will be interested as are the rest of us.

Posting pictures here is always good also.
Can I request a parts diagram for parts numbers purpose and also to get an idea of how it is put together? I thought the seals were copper on the injectors? Is there any specific way to remove the injectors? I didn't realize the pic was upside down whoops, sorry for all the questions😁
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Fri, Dec 11, 2015 5:28 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ThomasMueller:
Can I request a parts diagram for parts numbers purpose and also to get an idea of how it is put together? I thought the seals were copper on the injectors? Is there any specific way to remove the injectors? I didn't realize the pic was upside down whoops, sorry for all the questions😁
My reference was to leaking seals around the pre-combustion chambers.
You really need to get some manuals and study up on your tractors construction.
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Fri, Dec 11, 2015 10:10 AM
ThomasMueller
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Reply to Old Magnet:
My reference was to leaking seals around the pre-combustion chambers.
You really need to get some manuals and study up on your tractors construction.
I have the operators manual and service manual (which does not cover the engine(s)) I also helped a neighbour do a mechanical rebuild on his D4 at the same time as I was working on my D2. Would the D4 parts manual for the 7j d4400 engine have the diagram I'm after? I used this manual to rebuild my pony... Wish our dollar was stronger as the j series D2 literature seems privy to begin with? What ment by getting an idea of how it is put together is in reference to the little set keys do they lock the precombustion chambers in the block? I intend to be attending university next fall and money Is a little tight. (will apply for the scholarship) I intend to do a writeup for the magazine where I will explain how I acquired this cat when I was 15 and got yellow fever like the rest of us...
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Fri, Dec 11, 2015 9:16 PM
ccjersey
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Yes, the books for the D4400 will be very helpful working on a D3400 engine. Of course the bore and other dimensions will be different, but as you have noticed the designs are nearly identical otherwise.

You have to remember there are two things to seal around a PC chamber, coolant and compression pressure. The copper washers 4b5647 are at the base of the chamber and seal the chamber into the head/top of the cylinder, keeping the combustion gases out of the cooling system and coolant out of the cylinder. The water jacket to PC chamber joint at the top is sealed with a rubber o-ring 1a2298. These have probably lost all their resilience and are crumbling.

You will have to remove the injectors and then the chambers to change the o-rings. The injector removal requires a special socket that fits over the injector and has a window in the side to allow turning the injector hold down nut without breaking the nipple off the injector. There should be some posts here about how to make one out of a cheap 3/4 drive socket and a piece of pipe.

With the injectors out of the way, then you can remove the chambers with a large hex wrench. It may be helpful to use an impact wrench to rattle them out, switching directions if it binds up, to avoid taking the threads out of the head. If you are unlucky and damage the head getting the chambers out, there are kits to put thread inserts in, so all is not lost! And yes, the setscrews do lock the chamber in the head. These were deleted on later models.

New sealing washers may not be copper, some will be plated soft steel. With either copper or steel washers, a good coat of copper antiseize on all surfaces is a great idea when you reassemble it.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Dec 11, 2015 10:32 PM
ThomasMueller
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Reply to Old Magnet:
My reference was to leaking seals around the pre-combustion chambers.
You really need to get some manuals and study up on your tractors construction.
Thank you for your help I will contact the office and work out my write up over Christmas.

Thomas
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Fri, Dec 11, 2015 11:22 PM
ThomasMueller
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Reply to ThomasMueller:
Thank you for your help I will contact the office and work out my write up over Christmas.

Thomas
I ran into a similar problem that people seemed to have where the injector and the precombustion chamber come out as a unit. I thought I would share my method of separating them... I clamped the unit in one of those pipe clamps for threading gas pipe, using a rag under it so the teath of the clamp would not gouge the pre combustion chamber, then using the special socket that someone posted how to make, I was able to un thread the injectors. I cut out the slot in the socket a little different to prevent it from slipping off of the nut, as I read that some were having their sockets blow apart when attempting removal.
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