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coolant change on d6-9u

coolant change on d6-9u

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ncfarm
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im trying to service coolant for the winter. i found the valve down on the lower coolant line with the drain valve. its has the square head bolt showing. my problem is that the bolt seems stuck and i wanted to make sure i knew which way to go. is it a left or right handed thread setup? also could i bump the bolt with an impact gun to break loose the valve or is thier better way to go about this? the coolant seems to have alot of black scum in it. is thier a possibly bigger problem that im getting ready to uncover?
thanks
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Sun, Dec 11, 2016 10:41 PM
Old Magnet
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No reason not to use the rattle gun if you don't get to carried away, that valve stem is stainless steel and runs in a brass insert bushing. They are pretty stout. Standard left hand turn to loosen.
Be sure to remove the block drain also, plug located back of the governor. Seems that coolant has been in there a long time and may have grown some bugs along with possible oil contamination. Definitely due for a good flushing and change.

Be sure to use a square drive socket on the stem or you run a good chance of rounding the flats.
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Sun, Dec 11, 2016 10:59 PM
jmvmopar
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Sounds like you are trying to remove a pipe plug. If it is a pipe plug, I would try rattling it with an air hammer with a punch or flat bit. Don't go wild on it, just some vibrations to help loosen the threads. But yes you could try an impact on a pipe plug, again don't go wild with it. Just short bursts. If it doesn't come loose after a couple of burst, better get some heat.
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Sun, Dec 11, 2016 11:02 PM
ccjersey
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Mine has a stainless steel hex head stem. There is a hole in the side shield/brace for the hard nose to stick a socket on a long extension through.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Dec 12, 2016 3:42 AM
ncfarm
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Reply to ccjersey:
Mine has a stainless steel hex head stem. There is a hole in the side shield/brace for the hard nose to stick a socket on a long extension through.
thanks for the info.
been reading the service manual. where could i be getting oil in coolant? the engine oil cooler is air cooled correct? what i mean it doesnt relie on radiator coolant to aid in heat dispersal. so im i looking at a failed head gasket?
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Mon, Dec 12, 2016 11:23 PM
ccjersey
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It would be a long shot, but there is a crude fuel/coolant heat exchanger at the top front of the fuel filter tower. Of course that would be fuel not oil. There is a pretty robust cast iron separation there, but could have a porous casting or crack from freezing in that area.

Any coolant in fuel or oil? Compression pressure in radiator? Overheating?
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Dec 13, 2016 2:05 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ccjersey:
It would be a long shot, but there is a crude fuel/coolant heat exchanger at the top front of the fuel filter tower. Of course that would be fuel not oil. There is a pretty robust cast iron separation there, but could have a porous casting or crack from freezing in that area.

Any coolant in fuel or oil? Compression pressure in radiator? Overheating?
The oil cooler is completely independent of the engine cooling system, not likely to be a source there.
I would tend to suspect the head gasket but to get really black scum, (combination of soot, oil, and fuel) getting by a low liner, possible crack or pinhole. Do the bubble check for compression leak at the radiator neck.
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Tue, Dec 13, 2016 3:42 AM
ncfarm
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The oil cooler is completely independent of the engine cooling system, not likely to be a source there.
I would tend to suspect the head gasket but to get really black scum, (combination of soot, oil, and fuel) getting by a low liner, possible crack or pinhole. Do the bubble check for compression leak at the radiator neck.
thanks Magnet
on the bubble test do u mean check at the large screw off top? or remove the plate where the radiator inlet hose enters?
at the top of radiator im getting no bubbles but u can see the water swirling and moving. Oh and an update on the drain valve. the impact gun didnt work. i guess to many years of nonuse. i can open the block peacock so im going to drain flush and repeat until i get clean coolant to drain.
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Thu, Dec 15, 2016 6:32 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ncfarm:
thanks Magnet
on the bubble test do u mean check at the large screw off top? or remove the plate where the radiator inlet hose enters?
at the top of radiator im getting no bubbles but u can see the water swirling and moving. Oh and an update on the drain valve. the impact gun didnt work. i guess to many years of nonuse. i can open the block peacock so im going to drain flush and repeat until i get clean coolant to drain.
Bubble check is just with the radiator cap neck full.
Depending on your s/n there is another plug (npt) on the same pipe as the drain valve, might try opening that one but they usually are just about frozen up.
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Thu, Dec 15, 2016 11:04 PM
Ray54
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Bubble check is just with the radiator cap neck full.
Depending on your s/n there is another plug (npt) on the same pipe as the drain valve, might try opening that one but they usually are just about frozen up.
Had a look at the drain fitting on one in the herd yesterday. There is pipe plug in the same area as the other drain maybe in the same casting. But the normally used drain is the lower stainless steel 9/16 hex. As it is lower may be hard to see looking around the hard nose. There is a 1 inch or so whole in the hard nose to put a socket on about a 12 in extension.Extension will be at a 45 degree angle to hard nose. May have to raise blade to get ram out of the way. Have never had this drain not come loose on any of them using a long 1/2 in breaker bar. This drain is the lowest point in the system and would get more out than the pipe plug about 3 in higher.


Many things rust up on the old girls,the last one I got into had rust everywhere but this drain came loose. This D6 was retired in 1985 with goverment program to retire farm land. It did one day a year of fire breaks until steering clutch rusted up and would not release. Then it rested until 2013 when owners widow didn't want the barn to fall on it.

I could not find anything about this plug in the engine service manual. But operation and maintenance instruction book dose have a picture on page 68 and his hand is in the way to see the upper pipe plug. Good luck getting it cleaned out.
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Fri, Dec 16, 2016 1:22 AM
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