ACMOC
Login
ACMOC
Concrete or no concrete

Concrete or no concrete

Showing 1 to 10 of 33 results
1
D4 Andy
Topic Author
Offline
Send a private message to D4 Andy
Posts: 5
Thank you received: 0
All,
I recently build a 40'x60'x16' pole building to house my toys. I have a D4 7U, D2 4U ,D2 5U, and a Cat 922B wheel loader. Along with other various tractors and toys ect... I have not poured concrete yet. I was planning on doing it in the spring. I am a bit torn as whether my Cat dozers will ruin my concrete. I was thinking of using old conveyor belting as a cushion under the tracks to keep the grousers from tearing it up.
Im sure some of you guys out there have concrete and some not. Was hoping to hear from both sides and suggetions from each to help me make up my mind.
Thanks in advance for any input anyone may have.
Andy
Central Pennsylvania
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Jan 30, 2013 3:10 AM
chriscokid
Offline
Send a private message to chriscokid
Posts: 3,341
Thank you received: 0
We run ours on concrete and have had no problems but it is 8"-10" thick.
The conveyour belt would work just fine.
If you plan to use it just for storage i would save the money and do a gravel floor but if you plan to do any reapir work concrete is the way to go.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Jan 30, 2013 3:37 AM
dpendzic
Offline
Send a private message to dpendzic
Posts: 2,763
Thank you received: 1
Reply to chriscokid:
We run ours on concrete and have had no problems but it is 8"-10" thick.
The conveyour belt would work just fine.
If you plan to use it just for storage i would save the money and do a gravel floor but if you plan to do any reapir work concrete is the way to go.
four pieces of heavy timber sheathing that each are the length of the track works well too to save the concrete.
if the machines are only driven in and out on a straight line others have embedded RR track even with the top surface of the concrete---if you have different gage widths that might be a problem
If you go with concrete add mesh or rebar--concrete always tends to crack either from loading or from shrinkage and the steel will keep the cracks tighter.

if gravel you will probably have to regrade where you made turns.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Jan 30, 2013 3:53 AM
drujinin
Offline
Send a private message to drujinin
Posts: 3,852
Thank you received: 1
Reply to dpendzic:
four pieces of heavy timber sheathing that each are the length of the track works well too to save the concrete.
if the machines are only driven in and out on a straight line others have embedded RR track even with the top surface of the concrete---if you have different gage widths that might be a problem
If you go with concrete add mesh or rebar--concrete always tends to crack either from loading or from shrinkage and the steel will keep the cracks tighter.

if gravel you will probably have to regrade where you made turns.
One I use quite a bit for storage has 1/3 finished off as a concrete floored, heat/air conditioned work shop.
The other 2/3 is unheated gravel fill to park tractors on.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Jan 30, 2013 4:45 AM
Inter674
Offline
Send a private message to Inter674
Posts: 828
Thank you received: 0
Reply to dpendzic:
four pieces of heavy timber sheathing that each are the length of the track works well too to save the concrete.
if the machines are only driven in and out on a straight line others have embedded RR track even with the top surface of the concrete---if you have different gage widths that might be a problem
If you go with concrete add mesh or rebar--concrete always tends to crack either from loading or from shrinkage and the steel will keep the cracks tighter.

if gravel you will probably have to regrade where you made turns.
Steel?

I noticed the British Tank Museum at Bovington UK - also home for the Army's tank Regiment - uses steel sheets embedded into concrete flooring.

It was fun to see them drifting the combat tanks in and out of the shed area on a wet day.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Jan 30, 2013 4:46 AM
64farmboy
Offline
Member
Send a private message to 64farmboy
Posts: 554
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Inter674:
Steel?

I noticed the British Tank Museum at Bovington UK - also home for the Army's tank Regiment - uses steel sheets embedded into concrete flooring.

It was fun to see them drifting the combat tanks in and out of the shed area on a wet day.
When we poured the floor in my Buddie"s work shop for his construction business, we poured it 10 inches thick and put radiant floor heating in it. Makes a great floor to work on with a creeper, takes a while to warm up big iron (he has a D8, D6 and JD 550 for tracked machines. He lays down a couple of rough cut 2 X 12 oak planks to keep from digging up the floor surface. Machines need to be inside for a couple of days to warm up to room temp.
Regards Dennie
Restored 1970 ford tractor,1931 Model A PU streetrod, lifted 1978 F150, 1971 VW bug, antique chain saws
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Jan 30, 2013 5:40 AM
Painter
Offline
Send a private message to Painter
Posts: 132
Thank you received: 0
Reply to 64farmboy:
When we poured the floor in my Buddie"s work shop for his construction business, we poured it 10 inches thick and put radiant floor heating in it. Makes a great floor to work on with a creeper, takes a while to warm up big iron (he has a D8, D6 and JD 550 for tracked machines. He lays down a couple of rough cut 2 X 12 oak planks to keep from digging up the floor surface. Machines need to be inside for a couple of days to warm up to room temp.
Regards Dennie
Compacted screenings work better than gravel for me, easier to walk on
Hi, My name is Dennis, and I am a Rust-a-holic!

D4 7U17091 D6 8U10305 1926 Cat 30 1955 Ford T800, 74 Ford LT9000 1936 K Allis
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Jan 30, 2013 7:18 AM
old-iron-habit
Offline
Member
Send a private message to old-iron-habit
Posts: 3,520
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Painter:
Compacted screenings work better than gravel for me, easier to walk on
Not sure where in PA you are at but if you go with concrete make sure you prep the soil underneath to insure you do not frost heave and crack. That's a lot of concrete money and you want it to last. A good bed of gravel or sand that will drain should do the trick. Adding reinforcing is cheap insurance when placing concrete.

Oh, by the way. Make sure it is thick enough to hold that D8 you will come across some day. You know, the one you do not know you just have to have yet. LOL
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Jan 30, 2013 7:32 AM
blackkw
Offline
Send a private message to blackkw
Posts: 43
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Painter:
Compacted screenings work better than gravel for me, easier to walk on
There is a dozer grade concrete, I think its rated at 10,000 lbs. test. You can run on it with most dozers and excavators with out tearing it up. This is what most equipment shops use
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Jan 30, 2013 7:36 AM
Steve A
Offline
Member
Send a private message to Steve A
Posts: 1,254
Thank you received: 0
Reply to blackkw:
There is a dozer grade concrete, I think its rated at 10,000 lbs. test. You can run on it with most dozers and excavators with out tearing it up. This is what most equipment shops use
I vote with drujinin, have a small area for a work shop with concrete that you can heat, infloor is great if you leave it on, otherwise wood heat or overhead radiant tube heaters are instant on/off, Crushed conccrete, gravel or limestone is far cheaper for the rest of the cold storage area. 1 more thing, I used a product called cure seal on the concret, is is applied as soon as the mason is done, it slows the cure to make it stronger and seals the surfas so you can wipe up oil with ease and makes it easier to sweep.
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Jan 30, 2013 8:01 AM
B4D2
Offline
Send a private message to B4D2
Posts: 1,104
Thank you received: 0
Reply to Steve A:
I vote with drujinin, have a small area for a work shop with concrete that you can heat, infloor is great if you leave it on, otherwise wood heat or overhead radiant tube heaters are instant on/off, Crushed conccrete, gravel or limestone is far cheaper for the rest of the cold storage area. 1 more thing, I used a product called cure seal on the concret, is is applied as soon as the mason is done, it slows the cure to make it stronger and seals the surfas so you can wipe up oil with ease and makes it easier to sweep.
When I built the CPHQ shop, I poured concrete over the entire surface. The main floor is "only" 6" thick with reinforcing mesh. Underneath is compacted sand fill that was allowed to settle over the winter with plenty of rain and snowmelt to allow proper settling. It was compacted again prior to the pour. My biggest machine is a 933. I use heavy rubber coated conveyor for a pad upon which to drive. I risked driving across an unprotected portion, figuring I was going to only drive straight. It didn't matter, there are little crush marks all the way where the grouser tips came to bear. Also of note, I built a small studio apartment inside. That area was also poured concrete, but only 4" thick with 4" of foam insulation underneath. It was poured 1 inch higher than the shop floor to prevent any snowmelt or water from getting under the walls. Again, wire mesh, but that is standard here. Also, I put a good layer of 6 mil plastic vapor barrier under all of the concrete. I would advise one major improvement that no one else has offered. Regardless of your approach to the shop, the edge of the slab is a critical point upon which you will bear a lot of the weight of the machine. When pouring the slab, embed some long j bolts or bent all-thread at the aprons so that you can then also embed or bolt a long heavy angle iron (galvanized for rust even) along the exposed edge of the slab. I used planks and 2x lumber to try and protect mine, one slip and you will crack off the edge. Experience.
Attachment
Attachment
Attachment
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Wed, Jan 30, 2013 9:10 AM
Showing 1 to 10 of 33 results
1
YouTube Video Placeholder

Follow Us on Social Media

Our channel highlights machines from the earliest Holt and Best track-type tractors, equipment from the start of Caterpillar in 1925, up to units built in the mid-1960s.

Upcoming Events

Cromford Steam Rally

Chapter Two

| Highacres Farm, Dewey Lane, Brackenfield, Derbyshire DE55 6DB, UK

The Century of Caterpillar

| Elkader, 203 Johnson St, Elkader, IA 52043, USA

100 YEARS OF CATERPILLAR IN TASMANIA

Chapter Nineteen

| 2 Winkleigh Rd, Exeter TAS 7275
View Calendar
ACMOC

Antique Caterpillar
Machinery Owners Club

1115 Madison St NE # 1117
Salem, OR 97301

[email protected]

Terms & Privacy
Website developed by AdCo

Testimonials

"I also joined a year ago. had been on here a couple of times as a non-member and found the info very helpful so I got a one year subscription (not very expensive at all) to try it out. I really like all the resources on here so I just got a three year. I think its a very small price for what you can get out of this site."
-Jason N

Join Today!