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Caterpillar 951C Track Loader

Caterpillar 951C Track Loader

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realwork
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Hello,
I have some questions about a Cat 951C Track Loader (S/N 32F1159, circa 1972). The loader in question has a serious crack
underneath the machine in the main case, as revealed in the attached pictures. All of the oil has leaked out of the main case since
the tractor's last use many months ago. The pictures show the damage is forward of the final drives. I would like to repair the
cracked area of the tractor "in-position" by welding; the damaged area has already been "prepped" with a grinder. I am looking for
a detailed diagram of the main case before beginning this job. I would like to heat the damaged area with a "rosebud" tip prior to
welding and avoid any serious heat-damage to internal components. Does anyone out there have information on this main case?
I am also interested in knowing more about the proper welding rod and procedures used for this type of repair. Thanks from David.
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Thu, Nov 24, 2011 1:29 AM
Mike Walsh
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What kind of welding equipment is available to you; Stick, Mig, Tig, OxyActy.

Is your case cast steel or cast iron.

You need to drill holes at the end of the crack before you weld to keep it from cracking further as part of your prep.

When that crack gets hot, your gear oil is likely to thin and get into your weld, contaminating the weld. One trick to minimize this is to apply vacuum to the case so that air enters the case from the outside moving the oil away from the weld.

Just a few things to think about before you choose a filler metal.
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Thu, Nov 24, 2011 4:48 AM
AJ.
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Reply to Mike Walsh:
What kind of welding equipment is available to you; Stick, Mig, Tig, OxyActy.

Is your case cast steel or cast iron.

You need to drill holes at the end of the crack before you weld to keep it from cracking further as part of your prep.

When that crack gets hot, your gear oil is likely to thin and get into your weld, contaminating the weld. One trick to minimize this is to apply vacuum to the case so that air enters the case from the outside moving the oil away from the weld.

Just a few things to think about before you choose a filler metal.
That is a job for an experienced welder for it to have any chance of success,that housing is cast iron and it welds very badly,you would need to find the reason for the crack,is it damage from hitting something,or is there something loose causing slap,it is an unusal place for a crack to appear,I have not seen it before,there are a couple of pictures from the manual of whats inside there.
Good luck
AJ
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Fri, Nov 25, 2011 3:53 PM
catsilver
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Reply to AJ.:
That is a job for an experienced welder for it to have any chance of success,that housing is cast iron and it welds very badly,you would need to find the reason for the crack,is it damage from hitting something,or is there something loose causing slap,it is an unusal place for a crack to appear,I have not seen it before,there are a couple of pictures from the manual of whats inside there.
Good luck
AJ
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That area looks as if it has been welded before, one end will break through into the final drive compartment, the other into an area which I think is hollow and in the front end of the steering clutch area, it can just be seen at the bottom of the picture with the cross shaft assembly removed, just to the right of the cast in gussets and left of the cross shaft bearing support web. Both pictures have been taken from the 'engine' end of the transmission looking back towards the drawbar.
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Sat, Nov 26, 2011 4:07 AM
Mike Walsh
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Reply to Mike Walsh:
What kind of welding equipment is available to you; Stick, Mig, Tig, OxyActy.

Is your case cast steel or cast iron.

You need to drill holes at the end of the crack before you weld to keep it from cracking further as part of your prep.

When that crack gets hot, your gear oil is likely to thin and get into your weld, contaminating the weld. One trick to minimize this is to apply vacuum to the case so that air enters the case from the outside moving the oil away from the weld.

Just a few things to think about before you choose a filler metal.
[quote="Mike Walsh"]What kind of welding equipment is available to you; Stick, Mig, Tig, OxyActy.

Is your case cast steel or cast iron.

You need to drill holes at the end of the crack before you weld to keep it from cracking further as part of your prep.

When that crack gets hot, your gear oil is likely to thin and get into your weld, contaminating the weld. One trick to minimize this is to apply vacuum to the case so that air enters the case from the outside moving the oil away from the weld.

Just a few things to think about before you choose a filler metal.[/quote]


That sucks. If your case is cast iron it may not be repairable due to its physical size. Better to follow AJ's advice and find someone who has successfully done this before. Preheating that crack is likely to make the cast on either side of the crack harder, ensuring it will crack again. There's all sorts of people selling magic rod and methods to weld cast. Take AJ's advice and find a local welder who has done this sort of repair successfully to someone else's machine. There are no short cuts. My experience is in gas welding small cast parts which is not going to help you here.
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Sat, Nov 26, 2011 4:27 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to Mike Walsh:
[quote="Mike Walsh"]What kind of welding equipment is available to you; Stick, Mig, Tig, OxyActy.

Is your case cast steel or cast iron.

You need to drill holes at the end of the crack before you weld to keep it from cracking further as part of your prep.

When that crack gets hot, your gear oil is likely to thin and get into your weld, contaminating the weld. One trick to minimize this is to apply vacuum to the case so that air enters the case from the outside moving the oil away from the weld.

Just a few things to think about before you choose a filler metal.[/quote]


That sucks. If your case is cast iron it may not be repairable due to its physical size. Better to follow AJ's advice and find someone who has successfully done this before. Preheating that crack is likely to make the cast on either side of the crack harder, ensuring it will crack again. There's all sorts of people selling magic rod and methods to weld cast. Take AJ's advice and find a local welder who has done this sort of repair successfully to someone else's machine. There are no short cuts. My experience is in gas welding small cast parts which is not going to help you here.
Looks like you need to get the front support bracket bolts back in and tight on the track frame, all the stress is on the steering case from the track frame moving around. thats why its been welded so many times, youll just have a reaccuring problem with it.
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Sat, Nov 26, 2011 5:45 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to Rome K/G:
Looks like you need to get the front support bracket bolts back in and tight on the track frame, all the stress is on the steering case from the track frame moving around. thats why its been welded so many times, youll just have a reaccuring problem with it.
remove the recoil spring covers and check the bolts on top of the front bracket to track frame also.
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Sat, Nov 26, 2011 5:49 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Rome K/G:
remove the recoil spring covers and check the bolts on top of the front bracket to track frame also.
Good point.....
The front attachment wraps the top and side of the track frames but on these models it's an integral part of the loader frame...not the hard bar arrangement like on say the old 955's. Be a good idea to check the loader frame for breaks (and track frames) in that area.

I wouldn't give a chance in hell for successful repairs on that case. I see it as a new case or parts tractor.
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Sat, Nov 26, 2011 8:08 AM
D4C Charlie
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Good point.....
The front attachment wraps the top and side of the track frames but on these models it's an integral part of the loader frame...not the hard bar arrangement like on say the old 955's. Be a good idea to check the loader frame for breaks (and track frames) in that area.

I wouldn't give a chance in hell for successful repairs on that case. I see it as a new case or parts tractor.
Really nice 951. you nailed it OM, new (used) case or parts. Charlie
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Sat, Nov 26, 2011 10:01 AM
AJ.
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Reply to D4C Charlie:
Really nice 951. you nailed it OM, new (used) case or parts. Charlie
It's easier said than done to change the housing and I doubt if the owner is going to go that road,not been able to see what caused the cracking it hard to guess what might be putting a strain on that point,after WWII when I started in the repair business and parts could not be got for any make of machine due to cost and import restrictions you would not be replacing a housing because of a little crack like that,its been welded in several places and seem to have held,weld it again and if there is no stress on the area it may hold,all its got to do is keep the oil in,so have a good look around and try and figure out why there is stress at that point,in the old days I often had to put brackets on housings to hold the stress off the casting,as a matter of intrest was it leaking when you bought the machine or has it started since you got it,do you use the winch.
Good luck
AJ
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Sun, Nov 27, 2011 8:03 PM
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