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Cat D8 1955 15A Questons

Cat D8 1955 15A Questons

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Andy1845c
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Hello all!

I recently purchased an older Cat cable dozer. Always wanted one and finally found one in my area for sale. Its a 1955 (i think) 15A with torque converter of course.

So far its been a good machine, but has a few issues i'd like some input on from some folks that know more about these machines then I do.

1. The seals on the torque converter drip a bit. Not bad, but bad enough I had to install a fuel shut off so I don't loose all my fuel when its parked. (I don't use it everyday or let alone every week even. More of a toy😄 )
When I start it up, I have to turn it over for a few minutes to get fuel pressure back up. Is this super hard in the fuel system to be moving with no fuel to lube it? I can't afford to pull the converter and fix it at the moment. Is there any better way to address the dripping problem. I know I can't plug the tubes or I will take out a bearing, right?

2. This weekend I went to fire her up. It was a little cold out, below freezing. Got the pony running and went to engage the diesel and even though I could pull the lever all the way up, the engine wasn't turning over. I messed with the HI/LOW gear box. made sure it was engaged, tried both HI and LOW and still got nothing. I shut the pony down and worked the linkage back and forth a bit right where it goes into the case to make sure it was fulling moving in and out. Seemed to be, then i started the pony up again and the diesel was stuck engaged for a min or so and the disengaged itself. So I know I didn't break or shear anything in the gearbox off. Just won't stay engaged somtimes and won't enage others. It is possible there is some ice in the gearbox 😞

Anyone else had this happen or know the inner workings of the pony clutch mechenism and what could be wrong?

3. The left brake pedel bounces up and down when you put pressure on it. I am thinking the brake drums are going to be hard to get at?

Anyway, thoughts, advice or musing would be welcomed. 😄

I'll see if I can post some pics of her in the next few days. Just for fun😊

Thanks!
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Tue, Dec 2, 2008 3:26 AM
Old 3T lover
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Q1-The seals on the TC are supposed to leak. And when it gets to (I think) 13 drops per minute, it's time to pull the TC (check when running). If it leaks while sitting, they need, it needs fixing . If you do it now, the most you'll run into are 2 bearings and 2 seals. Run it to long and you got BIG TROUBLES. They used to make a kit for rebuilding the seals, a whole lot cheaper than buying new seals. I don't have that number anymore, sorry.

Q2- Sounds like you need to adjusdt the pony motor clutch....just guessing.

Q3- Sounds like the pinion bearings on that side are about to go out. And yes, the brake drums are a little trouble to get to but not that bad. If the dozer has a cab on it, just throw a chain around the cab to do the heavy lifting. I usually just made 2 loops in the chain and suspended a large pipe between the loops to hang a come-along or chain hoist from it.
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Tue, Dec 2, 2008 4:26 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Old 3T lover:
Q1-The seals on the TC are supposed to leak. And when it gets to (I think) 13 drops per minute, it's time to pull the TC (check when running). If it leaks while sitting, they need, it needs fixing . If you do it now, the most you'll run into are 2 bearings and 2 seals. Run it to long and you got BIG TROUBLES. They used to make a kit for rebuilding the seals, a whole lot cheaper than buying new seals. I don't have that number anymore, sorry.

Q2- Sounds like you need to adjusdt the pony motor clutch....just guessing.

Q3- Sounds like the pinion bearings on that side are about to go out. And yes, the brake drums are a little trouble to get to but not that bad. If the dozer has a cab on it, just throw a chain around the cab to do the heavy lifting. I usually just made 2 loops in the chain and suspended a large pipe between the loops to hang a come-along or chain hoist from it.
It's not so much that they are supposed to leak, although some is inevitable, it's that there is provision for drainage from the front and rear seals. Do not plug the drains. If the drainage is blocked the leakage will go where you don't want it, like into the clutch. The service manual states that up to 10 drops per minute while operating is satisfactory, more when cold.

Yes, you need a pony clutch adjustment. It is apparently slipping.
Take the cover off the clutch section, turn the adjusting collar until you find the lock pin. Pull the lock pin out and turn the collar to the right until the lock pin drops into the next hole. Repeat until you get a good engagement, better a little loose than to tight.

A worn out brake lining or missing lining section can also pulse the pedal.
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Tue, Dec 2, 2008 5:06 AM
Packrat
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Reply to Old Magnet:
It's not so much that they are supposed to leak, although some is inevitable, it's that there is provision for drainage from the front and rear seals. Do not plug the drains. If the drainage is blocked the leakage will go where you don't want it, like into the clutch. The service manual states that up to 10 drops per minute while operating is satisfactory, more when cold.

Yes, you need a pony clutch adjustment. It is apparently slipping.
Take the cover off the clutch section, turn the adjusting collar until you find the lock pin. Pull the lock pin out and turn the collar to the right until the lock pin drops into the next hole. Repeat until you get a good engagement, better a little loose than to tight.

A worn out brake lining or missing lining section can also pulse the pedal.
When I bought my 15a it was in the fall and I heard it run and made the deal. I couldn't pick it up right away and by the time I did it was REAL cold. We could not get it to turn over no matter what we did. Finally we realized that the plug in the bottom of the clutch housing that has a hole with a cotter pin in it was plugged solid and the flywheel was submerged in about 6" of ice. Once we got it thawed it fired right up. Live and learn.
Packrat
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Tue, Dec 2, 2008 9:35 AM
Andy1845c
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Reply to Packrat:
When I bought my 15a it was in the fall and I heard it run and made the deal. I couldn't pick it up right away and by the time I did it was REAL cold. We could not get it to turn over no matter what we did. Finally we realized that the plug in the bottom of the clutch housing that has a hole with a cotter pin in it was plugged solid and the flywheel was submerged in about 6" of ice. Once we got it thawed it fired right up. Live and learn.
Packrat
wow.... thanks for the replys! Its reassuring to know there are some folks here that know about this tractors. I don't know anyone else to ask about this stuff.

What is working on the torque converter like? Is there any special tools or knowledge I would need? Any ballpark guess on what the parts would run? A few hundred bucks? I'm only 24 and not exactly making millions yet😛

I will look into adjusting the pony motor clutch. Hopfully its that simple. Never adjusted that myself, so who knows how long its needed attention.

A pinion bearing sounds scary. Dare i ask how you put one of those in? I have visions of having to split the track......
What the best way to trouble shoot the pedel issue? A brake liner doesn't seem to critial, but a pinion bearing sounds catastropic.

I don't have a proper service manual for a 15A - I have one for a 35A-36A 46A. Some stuff looks similar, alot looks competly differnt. I think i'll head over to eaby and look for a 15A manual now.....

Edit - What is my service manual going to look like? I see alot of the one I have on ebay, with the serial numbers it covers printed on it, but then theres a couple that don't have any serial numbers given, like this one - http://cgi.ebay.com/CATERPILLAR-D8-TRACTOR-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL-1955_W0QQitemZ7623864205QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Books_Manuals?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

Does the 15A manual say 15A on it anyplace?

Thanks for any advice you guys can provide.
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Tue, Dec 2, 2008 10:36 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Andy1845c:
wow.... thanks for the replys! Its reassuring to know there are some folks here that know about this tractors. I don't know anyone else to ask about this stuff.

What is working on the torque converter like? Is there any special tools or knowledge I would need? Any ballpark guess on what the parts would run? A few hundred bucks? I'm only 24 and not exactly making millions yet😛

I will look into adjusting the pony motor clutch. Hopfully its that simple. Never adjusted that myself, so who knows how long its needed attention.

A pinion bearing sounds scary. Dare i ask how you put one of those in? I have visions of having to split the track......
What the best way to trouble shoot the pedel issue? A brake liner doesn't seem to critial, but a pinion bearing sounds catastropic.

I don't have a proper service manual for a 15A - I have one for a 35A-36A 46A. Some stuff looks similar, alot looks competly differnt. I think i'll head over to eaby and look for a 15A manual now.....

Edit - What is my service manual going to look like? I see alot of the one I have on ebay, with the serial numbers it covers printed on it, but then theres a couple that don't have any serial numbers given, like this one - http://cgi.ebay.com/CATERPILLAR-D8-TRACTOR-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL-1955_W0QQitemZ7623864205QQcmdZViewItemQQptZBI_Books_Manuals?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116

Does the 15A manual say 15A on it anyplace?

Thanks for any advice you guys can provide.
Other than the usual gear and bearing pullers no special tools are required to work on the converter......just big, heavy and awkward grunt work.

Yes, Cat was dumb enough to publish service manuals without model, serial or form numbers.🙄

Helps to know the production year ranges and when materials might have been printed. A D8 manual for 1955 could be for a 13A model (53-55)
The manual I have does state for the 14A and 15A models on the first page (if it's not missing)(54 - 5😎 and is made up of sections printed in 1955-56-57 & 58.
The models you mention are quite similar in detail

Yes, pinion bearings are a major job......need access to both inner (through steering clutches) and outer which has cover plate access from the outside if you can push the bearing out.....otherwise you would need to brake the chain, remove the sprocket (requires track truck removal) and final drive gear case.

Can't help you with costs.
I'd try tracking down the needed parts first.
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Tue, Dec 2, 2008 11:54 PM
D4C Charlie
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Other than the usual gear and bearing pullers no special tools are required to work on the converter......just big, heavy and awkward grunt work.

Yes, Cat was dumb enough to publish service manuals without model, serial or form numbers.🙄

Helps to know the production year ranges and when materials might have been printed. A D8 manual for 1955 could be for a 13A model (53-55)
The manual I have does state for the 14A and 15A models on the first page (if it's not missing)(54 - 5😎 and is made up of sections printed in 1955-56-57 & 58.
The models you mention are quite similar in detail

Yes, pinion bearings are a major job......need access to both inner (through steering clutches) and outer which has cover plate access from the outside if you can push the bearing out.....otherwise you would need to brake the chain, remove the sprocket (requires track truck removal) and final drive gear case.

Can't help you with costs.
I'd try tracking down the needed parts first.
One guess about the pumping brake pedel is the brake drum is loose on the final pinion shaft. On some cats you can take off an inspection cover off the back of the case. If so you can put a pry bar in and see if the brake drum moves up and down. If so it's loose on the pinion shaft. The manual for a 15A is smaller than the one you show. I wil look through my stuff today and see if I have one, I think I do. Charlie
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Wed, Dec 3, 2008 12:28 AM
Andy1845c
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Other than the usual gear and bearing pullers no special tools are required to work on the converter......just big, heavy and awkward grunt work.

Yes, Cat was dumb enough to publish service manuals without model, serial or form numbers.🙄

Helps to know the production year ranges and when materials might have been printed. A D8 manual for 1955 could be for a 13A model (53-55)
The manual I have does state for the 14A and 15A models on the first page (if it's not missing)(54 - 5😎 and is made up of sections printed in 1955-56-57 & 58.
The models you mention are quite similar in detail

Yes, pinion bearings are a major job......need access to both inner (through steering clutches) and outer which has cover plate access from the outside if you can push the bearing out.....otherwise you would need to brake the chain, remove the sprocket (requires track truck removal) and final drive gear case.

Can't help you with costs.
I'd try tracking down the needed parts first.
Thanks again for the reply.

If i remember right, the 15A is the first time a torque converter was used, correct? So a 13A manual won't have a section on that? Would that be ine way to see if a 1955 manual is going to cover my converter?

How much differance is there in the 15A verses the 35/36A that I have the manual for? Do you know off hand if the torque converter coved in this manual happens to be the same one the 15A uses? Scanning over the section, i am not seeing anything about if it uses diesel fuel or its own oil.

Also, as the brakes go, it looks like the ones shown in my manual are a band type brake that wraps around the steering clutch assembly. Is that what a 15A also has? I thought 15As had a drum type brake. It also shows a hydrulic booster in my manual, I am pretty sure I don't have one of those. To get to the bottom of the pedel pulsing issue, do I need to pull out the entire brake/clutch assembly and take a look, or is there a shortcut?

Also, where is the access plate for the outer pinion bearing? Haven't looked at my tractor yet (its at home, i'm at work) but the manual I have dosn't show any access without pulling the final drive cover off.

Again, sorry for all the questions, and I really appreciate your help.

Andy
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Wed, Dec 3, 2008 12:48 AM
Andy1845c
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Reply to D4C Charlie:
One guess about the pumping brake pedel is the brake drum is loose on the final pinion shaft. On some cats you can take off an inspection cover off the back of the case. If so you can put a pry bar in and see if the brake drum moves up and down. If so it's loose on the pinion shaft. The manual for a 15A is smaller than the one you show. I wil look through my stuff today and see if I have one, I think I do. Charlie


yeah.... I was thinking the 15A had a drum brake, can't remember who told me that. I'd imagine if its loose it screws the splines on the shaft and the drum all up?

If you have a 15A manual you would like to part with, let me know, I would probably be interested😄 Or even if you could just post a picture of it so I can get an idea what the cover looks like.
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Wed, Dec 3, 2008 12:53 AM
Old 3T lover
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Reply to Andy1845c:


yeah.... I was thinking the 15A had a drum brake, can't remember who told me that. I'd imagine if its loose it screws the splines on the shaft and the drum all up?

If you have a 15A manual you would like to part with, let me know, I would probably be interested😄 Or even if you could just post a picture of it so I can get an idea what the cover looks like.
One more question....are your steering clutches wet or dry? (meaning do they run in oil or not)
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Wed, Dec 3, 2008 1:23 AM
Andy1845c
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Reply to Old 3T lover:
One more question....are your steering clutches wet or dry? (meaning do they run in oil or not)


😮 I'll have to get back to you on that one after I get home.... 😮 I honestly cannot remember. I checked/changed all the fluids in the tractor last summer and can't remember if the clutches have oil in them or not. I want to say they are dry, because I don't remember doing anything to/with them.
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Wed, Dec 3, 2008 1:29 AM
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