Cat D6D Clutch Pack Removal

Remove the brake actuating mechanism.

Remove all but four of the bolts that hold the steering clutch to the steering clutch hub. Access the outer bolts through the side of the case after removing access plug. The cross shaft will need to be turned to access them all.

Install a couple of 3/8-16 NC bolts, 4 inch long in the brake bands and sling to hoist then remove the remaining hub bolts (assembly weighs about 250 lbs. Do not let the steering clutch slide out of the drum in the process.

Is there an easy way to turn the cross shaft? I have only broken down the right hand side. The track and everything else are still on the left hand side.

Is there an easy way to turn the cross shaft? I have only broken down the right hand side. The track and everything else are still on the left hand side.

When I pulled the clutches on my 6c (basically the same) I did it pretty much like Old Magnet says....to turn the cross shaft to access bolts I just rolled the machine ahead by using a handyman jack under the grousers. I hung a small 3" I-beam under the canopy and lifted it with a ratcheting cable winch...then was able to roll out to the end of the beam and lower it.

You've got the final drive apart so you can't just roll it ahead. You really need it up on stands, front and rear. Without the blade you'll have to jack up the front to get stands under it. Once it's off the ground you can jack on the opposite track like I did.

You have to jack the machine backwards or forwards to get the clutch bolts out, you can get them al through teh top with a slightly modified (bent)
15/16" combination spanner, if blocking the whole machine up is not an option, set some old rail sleepers under the final drive case and the radiator or equalizer bar and let it slide on them.

The track on the other side is best split open , you cannot pull a clutch lever on a D6C/D as the clutches are oil released, jacking it forward or backward if both tracks are still on is a bit of a pain, I always split both tracks, after you get the clutch and drum out thing get harder, the Nut on the pinion flange is done up fairish tight, its 3"A.F. with 2 bolts holding the lock in place, the service manual does not give very good instructions on lifting out the clutch-brake unit or undoing these nuts, its important to sling the brake band so it makes a good clamping grip on the drum, the pic in the service book near damages the band???, dont be tempted to put a piece of wood and a bolt as instructed in the maual to hold the pinion flange, bolt a good strip of iron in place using 2 bolts into the flange letting the strip of iron jamb on the case, to undo the nut is best done with the aid of something stronger than a Man, I use a 4ft lenght of pipe on an 1" drive socket and pull it using a sling hooked onto a fork truck or something with an engine, this is were you can soon find yourself getting a good look at the ground with all the scars so get someone to give a hand on the undoing of the nut?s, the cross-shaft nut is 2"5/8 AF this is the same size as the dead-shaft nut, then you have to pull off the flange from the pinion 1"1/2x12 is the pinion tread size on D6C's the D6D has 1"3/4x12 thread also the later ones have a stub on the pinion end needing the longer adaptor to press them back together, if you undo the brake drum bolts through the side plug, its worth putting a piece of plastic pipe onto your extension bar to minimize damage to the plug thread in the case???.

The local Cat service manager told me that the pinion flange would have to be pressed off and back on the pinion shaft with a special press. Is there any way around this?

Also, on the lower final drive, the track sprocket slide right off of the splined hub. The Cat guy told me that this was a problem and that these two should also be pressed together and apart. Should I replace the lower splined hub and outer sprocket?

And I can't believe the response that I have gotten to my post. I want to thank all of you for taking time out of your day to impart a young man with knowledge.

The flange needs to be removed to get the pinion out. The very limited space requires the low height hydraulic cylinder puller/pusher and hardware.

A loose sprocket usually tears up the splined fit to where it won't seat properly. Unless you caught it early on and can still maintain the 0.281 +/- 0.060 offset between the end of the shaft splines and the face of the sprocket under the 45-50T press loading. Otherwise it's a matched fit requiring replacement of both items. You will need a set of knowledgable eyeballs to check that out. I'd not be optimistic.

Scanned the pages on the pinion shafts from my D6c manual plus a spec sheet...hopefully you can read them. (they're out of order)
I rented the puller for the flange from the local Cat dealer....seems like it was about $100-125 over a weekend.