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Cat D4d steering handles sloppy joints

Cat D4d steering handles sloppy joints

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brucew
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Newbie here again with the '77 D4d. Powershift trans and I can pull the steering handles all the way back before they engage. I took off the access panel and removed the handles. Where the pin goes through the bottom of the handle where it engages the clevis, that hole is no longer round. It is oblong. That is part of my problem and I need to get that repaired. I have thought about drilling it out a bit and inserting a bronze bushing. Any new handles available?
Any suggested repair method on cast iron handles?
Tank you in advance!!
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Tue, Nov 12, 2019 10:56 AM
kracked1
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The steering clutches should be adjusted for 3 inches travel at the end of the lever. They should disengage rather than engage when the lever is pulled. I was wrong on my last post. I read it quick as D6D, totally different tractor.
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Tue, Nov 12, 2019 6:56 PM
brucew
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Reply to kracked1:
The steering clutches should be adjusted for 3 inches travel at the end of the lever. They should disengage rather than engage when the lever is pulled. I was wrong on my last post. I read it quick as D6D, totally different tractor.
I pulled it apart and the holes in the bottom are wallowed out. The pins are not worn and I did notice that Cat originally installed a sleeve in the hole. So a steel pin into a cast iron part, what could go wrong? I believe I will be looking for a machine shop later this morning and see what they can do.
I suspect the original hole was 9/16 with a brass reduction sleeve taking it down to 1/2.
Once that gets done I will adjust the clevis rods and still, quite possibly, be looking at replacing steering clutches. Such fun.
Now if I could get the roll bar cage off, I might be able to do this. Maybe. Then again.. . .I know a guy, who know's a guy. . .
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Tue, Nov 12, 2019 9:47 PM
Ray54
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Reply to brucew:
I pulled it apart and the holes in the bottom are wallowed out. The pins are not worn and I did notice that Cat originally installed a sleeve in the hole. So a steel pin into a cast iron part, what could go wrong? I believe I will be looking for a machine shop later this morning and see what they can do.
I suspect the original hole was 9/16 with a brass reduction sleeve taking it down to 1/2.
Once that gets done I will adjust the clevis rods and still, quite possibly, be looking at replacing steering clutches. Such fun.
Now if I could get the roll bar cage off, I might be able to do this. Maybe. Then again.. . .I know a guy, who know's a guy. . .
From kracked's comment if the brake is activated by the steering,I would think adjustment of both steering and brake would be very important. Which leads to get the book to make sure on adjustments,before starting to just throw parts at them.
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Tue, Nov 12, 2019 10:58 PM
d4c24a
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Reply to Ray54:
From kracked's comment if the brake is activated by the steering,I would think adjustment of both steering and brake would be very important. Which leads to get the book to make sure on adjustments,before starting to just throw parts at them.
Weld the hole up and redrill is what i do
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Tue, Nov 12, 2019 11:24 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Ray54:
From kracked's comment if the brake is activated by the steering,I would think adjustment of both steering and brake would be very important. Which leads to get the book to make sure on adjustments,before starting to just throw parts at them.
There are no cast iron parts in the linkage, Cat used cast steel. Lever base should have a bushing but linkage rods do not. Fixing wallowed out holes is a Cat tradition, I use drill bushings for most of my rod end repairs.
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Tue, Nov 12, 2019 11:25 PM
brucew
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Reply to Ray54:
From kracked's comment if the brake is activated by the steering,I would think adjustment of both steering and brake would be very important. Which leads to get the book to make sure on adjustments,before starting to just throw parts at them.
I went to Ebay and purchased the operators, parts and service books for the D4 and then 2 more books for the winch. 5 manuals and $200+/- later, I still have sloppy steering arms that need to get fixed. I don't believe that 1/4 inch free play at the bottom will get rid of 6 inches at the top, but it might take care of 2 inches worth. maybe even 3. After that the clevis connectors look like they are close to the end of adjustment so this is an attempt to remove all play before the final, if possible, adjustment. After this comes finding another pair of handles and modifying the hand grab angle. That would be easy enough t do if these were steel and not cast.
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Tue, Nov 12, 2019 11:39 PM
kracked1
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Reply to brucew:
I went to Ebay and purchased the operators, parts and service books for the D4 and then 2 more books for the winch. 5 manuals and $200+/- later, I still have sloppy steering arms that need to get fixed. I don't believe that 1/4 inch free play at the bottom will get rid of 6 inches at the top, but it might take care of 2 inches worth. maybe even 3. After that the clevis connectors look like they are close to the end of adjustment so this is an attempt to remove all play before the final, if possible, adjustment. After this comes finding another pair of handles and modifying the hand grab angle. That would be easy enough t do if these were steel and not cast.
What is the problem you are trying to solve? More belly than room? I know some of the loader levers are bent forward for more room. I am not that big and the straight levers get into the belly if on the loose end of adjustment. Might look for a different shape lever.
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Tue, Nov 12, 2019 11:58 PM
brucew
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Reply to kracked1:
What is the problem you are trying to solve? More belly than room? I know some of the loader levers are bent forward for more room. I am not that big and the straight levers get into the belly if on the loose end of adjustment. Might look for a different shape lever.
You nailed it! My tub 'o guts finally bit me. I figure to fix the handles and then possibly look at getting another set to change angles on, then again, these could probably be bent a bit with my hot wrench. I need to play awhile and see what happens.
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Wed, Nov 13, 2019 12:06 AM
juiceman
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Reply to brucew:
You nailed it! My tub 'o guts finally bit me. I figure to fix the handles and then possibly look at getting another set to change angles on, then again, these could probably be bent a bit with my hot wrench. I need to play awhile and see what happens.
Lol. I prefer to adjust levers than go on a diet. Same issues here. 3” freeplay away from my belly works for me!
Did you actually go inside the tractor and adjust steering clutches internally? Proper adjustment is done by opening up the covers, not stroke length of levers.

Share some pictures please. JM
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Wed, Nov 13, 2019 12:50 AM
brucew
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Reply to juiceman:
Lol. I prefer to adjust levers than go on a diet. Same issues here. 3” freeplay away from my belly works for me!
Did you actually go inside the tractor and adjust steering clutches internally? Proper adjustment is done by opening up the covers, not stroke length of levers.

Share some pictures please. JM
Well, this machine has been sitting outside for about 4 days so far. I got the handles off and will get inserts stuffed into the ends and some of that slop taken out.
I have the cover off from the bottom of the levers and there are two threaded rods down there with a clevis on the end of each one. Those appear to be about at the end of adjustment. I figured I might get the re-bushed handles back into it and see what I get. After that might come the hot wrench.
Time will tell very soon.
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Wed, Nov 13, 2019 8:43 AM
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