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Cat d4 7u bleeding fuel system

Cat d4 7u bleeding fuel system

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kingmike
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Hey guys, I just changed my tower filters and saw a post on bleeding but couldn't understand for sure how to do it best. I dont have a pony motor but do have direct electric starter on it that works great. Heres the question: do I need the compression release in (start) or out and do I need the throttle closed or opened up to idle crank when I go to bleed this? I've already filled my tower back up some so figure itll be a little easier to open those 2 valves on there to bleed it during this process without draining all of my batteries. Any suggestions are appreciated as you've guys helped me tremendously so far! Thanks
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Fri, Feb 7, 2020 11:46 PM
dpendzic
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when the fuel tank is higher than the bleed screws it will gravity bleed thru them especially if the tank is filled--what also helps is a slight pressure thru the fuel tank cap--5 psi or so---leave the compression release in start. not sure on the throttle setting---you may have to bleed the individual injector also if it doesn't start.
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Sat, Feb 8, 2020 12:05 AM
D4Jim
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Reply to dpendzic:
when the fuel tank is higher than the bleed screws it will gravity bleed thru them especially if the tank is filled--what also helps is a slight pressure thru the fuel tank cap--5 psi or so---leave the compression release in start. not sure on the throttle setting---you may have to bleed the individual injector also if it doesn't start.
King,
Like Dan said you can bleed the system if your tank is full and above the tower etc. I cheat and use a pressure gizmo (inner tube and valve on the tank) to pressurize to about 5 psi as it is quicker. While bleeding leave the throttle open and make sure you have the tower filled before checking the injectors. After you get the tower filled you need to go to the injectors and the pump to bleed them. Yes, you do have to crank the main to get fuel in the system through the transfer pump etc. If your transfer pump is worn the pressure will force fuel past the pump but if the transfer is in good shape you have to "crank" all the fuel through it. Important to get all the air out of the tower.
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Sat, Feb 8, 2020 12:20 AM
kingmike
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Reply to D4Jim:
King,
Like Dan said you can bleed the system if your tank is full and above the tower etc. I cheat and use a pressure gizmo (inner tube and valve on the tank) to pressurize to about 5 psi as it is quicker. While bleeding leave the throttle open and make sure you have the tower filled before checking the injectors. After you get the tower filled you need to go to the injectors and the pump to bleed them. Yes, you do have to crank the main to get fuel in the system through the transfer pump etc. If your transfer pump is worn the pressure will force fuel past the pump but if the transfer is in good shape you have to "crank" all the fuel through it. Important to get all the air out of the tower.
Ok thanks. Yea I remember seeing that idea to pressurize the fuel tank in another thread - probably by you Jim. Thanks I'll try that. I never actually bled my fuel pumps so the injectors might be ok but I'll see when I go to crank it. Thanks!
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Sat, Feb 8, 2020 1:24 AM
Rome K/G
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Reply to kingmike:
Ok thanks. Yea I remember seeing that idea to pressurize the fuel tank in another thread - probably by you Jim. Thanks I'll try that. I never actually bled my fuel pumps so the injectors might be ok but I'll see when I go to crank it. Thanks!
You have to do it step by step, not just open everything up and wait. Put the compression release on start, ope the lower vent on the filter housing and turn engine over when steady fuel is present close the valve and open the top vent on the cap till steady fuel then open the bleeder valve on the injection pump, if no vent open line till steady stream, close and go the next and finish the others, system bled.
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Sat, Feb 8, 2020 4:42 AM
kittyman1
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Reply to Rome K/G:
You have to do it step by step, not just open everything up and wait. Put the compression release on start, ope the lower vent on the filter housing and turn engine over when steady fuel is present close the valve and open the top vent on the cap till steady fuel then open the bleeder valve on the injection pump, if no vent open line till steady stream, close and go the next and finish the others, system bled.
as the others have mentioned...it's also sequence involved...you are chasing the air outta/ thru the system....starting from beginning (tank) to the end (injectors)! so something like tank, filters, pump, injectors...

-i find the last bit of air i bleed off at the injectors, crack a couple loose and when you lose the air bubbles and engine starts firing...tighten them back up and check to make sure no fuel leaks anywhere....👍
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Sat, Feb 8, 2020 8:48 AM
oldbeek
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Reply to kittyman1:
as the others have mentioned...it's also sequence involved...you are chasing the air outta/ thru the system....starting from beginning (tank) to the end (injectors)! so something like tank, filters, pump, injectors...

-i find the last bit of air i bleed off at the injectors, crack a couple loose and when you lose the air bubbles and engine starts firing...tighten them back up and check to make sure no fuel leaks anywhere....👍
I use my shop vac on the pressure side to bleed my 12. Stick hose in tank with shop rags around the hose. Lots of volume with not much pressure. Will not explode the seams in the tank.
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Sat, Feb 8, 2020 10:34 AM
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