If memory serves me, once the pony is lifted or off your ready to remove pinion.
There is a magic set of moves and twist to get it out but it will come out without removing the govenor
It is easier to remove the pinion if it is latched. That makes it shorter! So better clearance.
I would be spraying it with penetrating oil and trying to get it to latch with a pry bar before unbolting the pinion from the clutch housing.
Also, be careful prying on the flange of the pinion housing. It is easy to break off the "ears" where the bolts go through while trying to get the assembly to break loose from the clutch housing.
when the pony motor gets dragged down is the diesel spinning at all??
I dont think so no. You can turn the dielsel over by turning the fan with decompression on though so I don't think the diesel engine is seized.
Toby. Thankyou very much for the you walk through. It's exactly what I was looking for.
Thankyou for all the replys!!!!
I think adding some to the button on the end of the pinion is going to be a lot easier than the lever/hook which I believe requires the tractor to be split to remove?
The button on the end of the pinion latch assembly is a separate piece, not sure how it is retained, but it would have to be easier to work on that out on the bench than the lever inside the clutch housing. Also the lever is a piece of steel, I suppose it could get brittle and snap off if you welded on it?????? Maybe not a problem, I just don't know, but anyway, no danger of that happening on the button.
The arm that pushes the pinion latch housing on my 5U is half-broken off. To change it out would require splitting the tractor so I'm just going to build it up with some weld. The button on the latch is fine.
Cheers,
Neil
I also don't know if the pinion engagement arm can be totally removed without splitting the tractor, it may not completely slide out of its bore before hitting the inside of the transmission housing. With the pinion clutch already removed, it may be possible for a person to reach inside that opening and grab the shaft to give it a try.
The pinion engagement arm is retained in its bore by the close fit of the engagement lever shaft. See scan-
[img]http://i802.photobucket.com/albums/yy310/TRNelson/Cat%20D2/002_zps2419661e.jpg[/img]
The 3B2632 lever assembly fits inside a flat that is machined into the side of the 4B5298 bar assembly, as illustrated in the small inset picture I added to the scan page. The hand lever for engaging the pinion keeps the two pieces mated together because of the way it is clamped to the 3B2632 lever, and the 4B5293 pin keeps everything aligned via a seperate bore of its own.
This is usually where splitting the tractor becomes necessary. To disassemble the mechanisms, first loosen the clamp bolt on the hand lever and slide it off of 3B2632. Then you can push 3B2632 inward far enough to disengage it from the 4B5298 bar, which will allow 4B5298 to be slid out of its bores and removed. Reverse the removal procedure for reassembly, making sure to position the hand engagement lever tight enough to the bell housing to keep both pieces mated together without binding.