CAT D2 oil pump , pan removal, bearings

If you are going to do this, I would simply remove the track frames and crib the tractor up or put on very secure stands, maybe shop fabricate something special for the purpose instead of having the tractor sitting steel on steel where you might shift it while torqueing bolts etc. Getting the track frames and tracks out of the way will simplify removing the equalizer spring and make access to the oil pan and crankshaft a lot easier. And they have to come off to pull the final drives. In many cases, the steering clutches can be broken loose by soaking with diesel and then puliing/pushing hard with the clutch levers tied or held back, BUT plenty of them have to be disassembled. All the disks and the brake drum, springs etc are available new aftermarket to repair the steering clutches if you need.

Many times what happens is the steel disks corrode and swell the clutch pack so much that the springs are fully compressed and no amount of pulling on the levers can compress them further to release the pack. Some have sanded the steels and the friction disks down to remove the rust and reassembled, but the new metalic frictions available from General Gear should make this job a once in a lifetime repair. The old organic linings may stick again if you don't use your tractor regularly.

On the other hand if you want to do this in stages, you could even work on the engine through the inspection covers on the side to drop some caps and plastigauge the crankshaft and bearings before you tear into it for real. If you cannot find bearings, I believe the old bearings can be re-babbeted instead of fabricated from scratch. Seems like the guy that does that has posted on here in the past. I went through all kind of grief trying to find a thrust bearing I needed for a D333 and ended up modifying the thrust bearing system of the engine to accept new style half circle thrust bearings and only a few months later found out I could have sent my old one piece thrust bearing to be rebabbeted😖mokin:

Ironworker, if you're looking at that D2 in Harvard MA, then I'd also be wary of more than just the oil pump having shorn its drive (I'd be curious how the owner verified that..) But more importantly how long it ran without pressure. They can run for a fair while but you'll never know until you've either got it going or you pull it apart. Best of luck - I was looking at it but decided not to (for that price at least...)
Cheers,
Neil

[quote="Neil"]Ironworker, if you're looking at that D2 in Harvard MA, then I'd also be wary of more than just the oil pump having shorn its drive (I'd be curious how the owner verified that..) But more importantly how long it ran without pressure. They can run for a fair while but you'll never know until you've either got it going or you pull it apart. Best of luck - I was looking at it but decided not to (for that price at least...)
Cheers,
Neil[/quote]

I got an email from the owner and he is looking to get $2500 FOR IT.

sort of why I shyed away from it, saw a real nice running with like new bottom for 6k with new cluthes too. I'd be there in expences in no time .

Well, that's a bit cheaper than it's been on eBay at $3500. One might be interested at that price but it's still like a box of chocolates... I dunno, if it keeps getting cheaper, at some point I'll be interested : )

Cheers,
Neil.

IronworkerFXR, you PM'ed me about the clutch pics and pump.

Are you talking about the steering clutch pictures I posted back in 2011? I see they are still on the site. Hopefully they are helpful. I haven't been on the site in a while, but just happen to log in the other day and also noticed that CAT for sale. I have removed an oil pump before. Actually cribbed up the D2 and got the oil pan off. The time I took off the oil pan was to change the whole pan, due to a cracked pan. I wasn't taking the oil pump out at the time. But the same labor to get to the oil pump. It isn't all that bad. I did also remove the track frames because I was doing swaps of those and installing better rails, etc. I don't have experience regarding a shear breaking in an oil pump. I guess as another member said, the concern is how long the machine ran with no oil pressure. The old machines are very tough and can take a lot of abuse, but no oil pressure is bad. But, I've heard of other guys with similar problems, like the oil line to the oil cooler breaking and all the oil running out and they not noticing it right away. And their machine still is fine after repairing and replenishing the oil. Probably the only way you will know of damage would be to do as already said below... remove the pan, remove the bearing caps and examine the bearings. At that time you could plastigage to see how much clearance was there, plus look for bearing scoring, burning, etc.

Regarding the clutch pack.....I have had good luck and bad. I have removed about 8 D2 steering clutches over the years and only broke one brake drum. Maybe I was just lucky. What happens is, worse case, the teeth on the clutch pack get rusted to the splines in the drum and as you are prying off the final drive, the teeth are not slipping out of the drum and instead are PULLING the drum until it shatters. The one I had break, it was almost like welded to the clutch pack with rust. I had to actually use a hammer and chisel and crack the remainder of the drum off the pack. The pack was worthless too. The drum is cast metal, so it will crack if you whack it. If you are lucky you can squirt some lube (kroil, liquid wrench, or automatic trans fluid which is a solvent) into the splines, let it sit for a while (days), then attempt to remove the final. If you take off the cover on top the trans (where you adjust the steering clutches) you can look through openings and see the brake drum splines...where the clutch is slipped into the drum. You could use a long tube and pour some lube all over those splines (which I do), trying to work it into the drum so that the clutch teeth might slip free on final removal.

It has been a while since on this site, but I know that some company was manufacturing aftermarket D2 drums. I have four D2 drums from my parts machines I've been saving. I could maybe part with one if the price was right.

You will laugh at the crib job I did on this D2. Was many years ago before I had a concrete floor to work on. Looks crazy, but it was actually very stable.

You will laugh at the crib job I did on this D2. Was many years ago before I had a concrete floor to work on. Looks crazy, but it was actually very stable.[/QUOTE]

So when were you in my workshop taking pictures??

Note: I must improve my security systems😊

thanks Arthropod,
I have worked on unfortunatly on several motors where there was a oil starvation problem, RPMs , load, duration, all play into the damage amount. low speed I see a lot of bearing galling and transfer,high speed scored cranks spun bearings ,
your pictures are a real help to us who have not preformed the tasks, and I always take somebodys thoughts into how I'd do it . the cribbing is interesting , been there done that too.