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Cat D2-5J, Seeking Info About Fuel Pump and Governor Control Mechanism

Cat D2-5J, Seeking Info About Fuel Pump and Governor Control Mechanism

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realwork
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Tuesday December 12, 2015

Hello to All Forum Members:

I'm trying to begin repairs on the Fuel Pump and Governor Control Mechanism of my D2-5J tractor, S/N 5J7450SP. I have a parts manual that covers serial numbers 5J1864 to 5J3500 but the picture in this manual doesn't seem to match the mechanism on my tractor. Could someone on this forum please post the correct copy of this mechanism and share it with me and other interested members? I understand that Jensales offers a parts manual covering serial numbers 5J3501 to 5J10561 for $68 but I've already spent plenty of money with those folks and I'm trying to save that money for D-2 parts that will probably be needed for this repair. Thanks from realwork.
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Wed, Dec 2, 2015 9:02 AM
ccjersey
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Pretty simple mechanism, but a little rust or wear can screw it up pretty easily. What is it doing wrong? Pictures are from 5J3501 up book
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D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, Dec 2, 2015 10:01 PM
realwork
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Reply to ccjersey:
Pretty simple mechanism, but a little rust or wear can screw it up pretty easily. What is it doing wrong? Pictures are from 5J3501 up book
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Wednesday December 2, 2015

Hello ccjersey,

Thanks for posting those diagrams. The problem is oil buildup in this compartment. Yesterday I removed the six bolts and cover-plate (P/N 4B5672) and drained about 1/3 cup of rather clean oil from this compartment. I understand that this compartment should be dry and am wondering what is the source of oil intrusion. Do you know what might be the source of this problem? I was investigating this area of the tractor in preparation for removal of the clutch and starter pinion. This tractor has been in our family for over fifty years and has been stored indoors for over twenty years. It was originally used in a citrus orchard to pull an offset disc and spring-tooth. It operates but needs some attention at the clutch and starter pinion. The original serial number is 3J1813SP but the engine was damaged in the 1960's and replaced in the 1970's with a 5J engine. This early model tractor has no access plate for adjustment of the pinion latch. My plan is to remove and service the clutch and starter pinion assembly and then drill my own access hole for pinion latch adjustment and fabricate an inspection plate to cover the area. Thanks for your help.
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Thu, Dec 3, 2015 3:19 AM
edb
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Reply to realwork:
Wednesday December 2, 2015

Hello ccjersey,

Thanks for posting those diagrams. The problem is oil buildup in this compartment. Yesterday I removed the six bolts and cover-plate (P/N 4B5672) and drained about 1/3 cup of rather clean oil from this compartment. I understand that this compartment should be dry and am wondering what is the source of oil intrusion. Do you know what might be the source of this problem? I was investigating this area of the tractor in preparation for removal of the clutch and starter pinion. This tractor has been in our family for over fifty years and has been stored indoors for over twenty years. It was originally used in a citrus orchard to pull an offset disc and spring-tooth. It operates but needs some attention at the clutch and starter pinion. The original serial number is 3J1813SP but the engine was damaged in the 1960's and replaced in the 1970's with a 5J engine. This early model tractor has no access plate for adjustment of the pinion latch. My plan is to remove and service the clutch and starter pinion assembly and then drill my own access hole for pinion latch adjustment and fabricate an inspection plate to cover the area. Thanks for your help.
Hi RW,
have you checked the oil level in the main injection pump housing via the angled neck plug on the side of the hour meter at side of the Inj. pump main body.
Be careful as it is likely over full due to fuel leakage past the Inj pump plungers over time. This is caused by gravity fuel pressure, due to the fuel tank being higher than the pumps.

There should be a drain tube from the pump compartment under the main injection pump side cover. The tube exits down below the fuel filter tower--may be 2 or 3 drain tubes there depending on the model.

Mud daubers love to fill the little tubes with mud and so the leakage cannot drain away as intended. Sometimes the tubes get bent and kinked off or if a sump guard is fitted, trash builds up in then and clogs the tubes.
The Inj pump oil will be diluted with fuel and so needs draining and changing.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Thu, Dec 3, 2015 6:20 AM
ccjersey
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Looks like by the time your engine was made, the fuel system drain lines had been pruned down to a single outlet. The injector return line should be plumbed back into the filter tower base in some fashion. I need to look at my two to get refreshed on that. Anyway you may have to do some disconnecting and cleaning with a wire to get the lines clear, but the drain line should keep the fuel that "normally" leaks from the fuel pumps drained away and not accumulating in the lower housing where it dilutes the oil for the pump camshaft lube. You should drain the oil sump and refill with engine oil because of the dilution.

Sounds like a good plan on creating an access hole to adjust the pinion latch springs.
Attachment
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sat, Dec 5, 2015 2:11 AM
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