cat d 343 motor rebuild

its my 1 st time rebilding 343 motor what needs to be done besides the standerd rebuild kit ?

The only big difference for you Ross, is the overhead cam setup. I take it you are doing an inframe.
Inspect your main and rod bearings good for so you match them up right. They will have part# and be marked std or us and how much. That engine had wide and narrow oil rings. The narrow are best for truck(1693) and scraper engines due to load charictoristics. They burn less oil. Make sure the lower liner bores have a nice champfer left or build it up with JB weld and sand it down so the bottom seals don't get cut going in. Make sure the liners ahve good and even projection. Clamp them down to 60 lb ft to check. If you have a spacer plate engine you need to clamp the plate too. A bolt with a steel and fiber washer does best, need 4 around a cyl. If projection isn't right get the seats machined and shimmed. Once you get the head done you may run into another wrinkel, head too thin. This is a common problem, you find out when you can't back off the adjusters far enough to get valve lash. Cat dealer can supply you shims to put on the hollow dowels of the camshaft bearing blocks. They will lift the cam up to it's original position with a new head. Sometimes you need two gaskets under the cam box for the four bolt holes at the back around the drive to line up. If you get it together and have a big oil leak under the cam box at the rear of engine you need the extra gasket. Put the engine on #1 TDC before installing the head. #1&6 pistons at top and the cam drive dead spline at the top. Watch for cam block shims and double gasket under cam box when taking apart.
Later Bob

The only big difference for you Ross, is the overhead cam setup. I take it you are doing an inframe.
Inspect your main and rod bearings good for#'s so you match them up right. They will have part# and be marked std or us and how much. That engine had wide and narrow oil rings. The narrow are best for truck(1693) and scraper engines due to load charictoristics. They burn less oil. Make sure the lower liner bores have a nice champfer left or build it up with JB weld and sand it down so the bottom seals don't get cut going in. Make sure the liners have good and even projection. Clamp them down to 60 lb ft to check. If you have a spacer plate engine you need to clamp the plate too. A bolt with a steel and fiber washer does best, need 4 around a cyl. If projection isn't right get the seats machined and shimmed. Once you get the head done you may run into another wrinkel, head too thin. This is a common problem, you find out when you can't back off the adjusters far enough to get valve lash. Cat dealer can supply you shims to put on the hollow dowels of the camshaft bearing blocks. They will lift the cam up to it's original position with a new head. Sometimes you need two gaskets under the cam box for the four bolt holes at the back around the drive to line up. If you get it together and have a big oil leak under the cam box at the rear of engine you need the extra gasket. Put the engine on #1 TDC before installing the head. #1&6 pistons at top and the cam drive dead spline at the top. Watch for cam block shims and double gasket under cam box when taking apart.
Later Bob